Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions – Polymer containing
Reexamination Certificate
2000-09-25
2002-05-21
Page, Thurman K. (Department: 1615)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Live hair or scalp treating compositions
Polymer containing
C424S070100, C424S070120, C424S070160, C424S047000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06391292
ABSTRACT:
A subject-matter of the invention is a styling composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one polymer (A) with specific characteristics and at least one polymer (B) chosen from anionic, cationic or amphoteric film-forming polymers. It is also targeted at a process for shaping or retaining the form of the hair using this composition and at its use in the formulation of styling products, such as lacquers, sprays or mousses, for the purpose of obtaining form retention or shaping of the hairstyle.
The most widespread hair products on the cosmetics market for fixing the hair are compositions to be sprayed as an aerosol or as a pump-action spray, such as lacquers, sprays or mousses, composed essentially of a solution, generally an alcoholic or aqueous/alcoholic solution, and of a water-soluble or alcohol-soluble film-forming polymer, as a mixture with various cosmetic adjuvants.
However, these hair formulations, such as mousses, gels and especially aerosol sprays and lacquers intended to retain the form of the hairstyle, still do not make it possible for the hairstyle to satisfactorily withstand the various natural movements of life, such as walking, head movements or gusts of wind.
The polymers used for the formulation of these hair products are anionic, amphoteric or non-ionic film-forming polymers which result in the formation of films having a more or less hard and brittle nature.
When the polymer is too brittle, the percentage of elongation at break measured on the film is low, that is to say generally of less than 2%, and the hold of the hairstyle over time is not assured.
To overcome this problem, these polymers have already been mixed with plasticizers, and more flexible and non-flaky coatings have already been obtained. However, these films are deformable and plastic, that is to say that, after deformation, they only recover their initial form to a very small extent. While the hold of the hairstyle is improved, it is still not satisfactory since the form of the hairstyle changes over time.
More satisfactory results in terms of hold have been obtained with compositions comprising a combination of film-forming polymers, such as, for example, a cellulose polymer and an acrylic polymer. However, these compositions are still not entirely satisfactory, insofar as the hair loses some of its natural cosmetic properties.
There is therefore a search for cosmetic compositions for form retention of and/or fixing the hairstyle which provide the hair with good cosmetic properties, in particular good disentangling, softness and a pleasant appearance, in addition to fixing which lasts.
Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the Applicant Company has discovered that it is impossible to overcome the technical problems mentioned above by using certain specific combinations of polymers.
A subject-matter of the invention is a styling composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
(1) at least one polymer (A) chosen so that a film obtained by drying a mixture of this polymer (A) with ethanol or water, at room temperature and at a relative humidity level of 50%, exhibits a mechanical profile defined by at least:
(i) a degree of elongation at break (&egr;
b
) of greater than or equal to 300%;
(ii) a recovery at 300 seconds (R
300
) of greater than or equal to 45%; and
(iii) when the recovery at 300 seconds is between 45 and 60%, then the elongation is less than 1300%;
(2) at least one film-forming polymer (B), other than the polymer (A), chosen from anionic, cationic or amphoteric film-forming polymers.
Another subject-matter of the present invention relates to a process for shaping or retaining the form of the hairstyle comprising the use of this composition.
Yet another subject-matter of the present invention relates to the use of this composition in the manufacture of hair cosmetic compositions for the purpose of obtaining form retention or shaping of the hairstyle.
The polymers (A) particularly targeted by the present invention are those distributed by Goodrich under the name Avalure AC 315® and V29®.
Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “film obtained by drying at room temperature (22±2° C.) and at a relative humidity level of 50% ±5%” is understood to mean the film obtained under these conditions starting from a mixture comprising 6% of active material (a.m.) of polymer A with ethanol or water, the amount of mixture being adjusted in order to obtain, in a Teflon matrix, a film with a thickness of 500±50 &mgr;m. The drying is continued until the weight of the film no longer changes, which represents approximately 12 days. The polymers A which are soluble or partially soluble in ethanol are tested in ethanol. The other polymers are tested in water, in the dissolved or dispersed form.
Within the meaning of the present invention, the degree of elongation at break and the degree of recovery are evaluated by means of the tests described below.
In order to carry out the tensile tests, the film is cut into rectangular test specimens with a length of 80 mm and a width of 15 mm.
The tests are carried out on a device, sold under the name Lloyd or sold under the name Zwick, under the same temperature and humidity conditions as for the drying, that is to say a temperature of 22±2° C. and a relative humidity level of 50±5%.
The test specimens are drawn at the rate of 20 mm/min and the distance between the jaws is 50±1 mm.
The following procedure is used to determine the instantaneous recovery (R
i
):
the test specimen is drawn by 150% (&egr;
max
), that is to say 1.5 times its initial length (l
0
)
the stress is released at a return rate equal to the tensile rate, i.e. 20 mm/min, and the elongation of the test specimen is measured as a percentage after returning to zero load (&egr;
i
).
The instantaneous recovery as a % (R
i
) is given by the formula below:
R
i
=((&egr;
max
−&egr;
i
)/&egr;
max
)×100
In order to determine the recovery at 300 seconds, the test specimen which has been subjected to the preceding operations is maintained at zero stress for an additional 300 seconds and its degree of elongation is measured as a percentage (&egr;
300
)
The recovery at 300 second as a % (R
300
) is given by the formula below:
R
300
=(&egr;
max
−&egr;
300
)/&egr;
max
)×100
The cationic, anionic or amphoteric film-forming polymers (B) which can be used in accordance with the invention are described below.
The cationic film-forming polymers which can be used according to the present invention are preferably chosen from polymers comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly bonded to the latter and having a molecular weight of between 500 and approximately 5,000,000 and preferably between 1000 and 3,000,000.
Mention may more particularly be made, among these polymers, of the following cationic polymers:
(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides comprising at least one of the units of following formulae:
in which:
R
3
denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH
3
radical;
A is a linear or branched alkyl group comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
R
4
, R
5
and R
6
, which are identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical;
R
1
and R
2
represent hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
X denotes a methyl sulphate anion or a halide, such as chloride or bromide.
The copolymers of the family (1) additionally comprise one or more units deriving from comonomers which can be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids and their esters, vinyllactams, such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinyl-caprolactam, or vinyl esters.
Thus, mention may be made, among these copolymers of the family (1), of:
copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoeth
Dupuis Christine
Samain Henri
L'Oreal (S.A.)
Page Thurman K.
Seidlech Brian K.
LandOfFree
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