Hair treatment compositions

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Preparations characterized by special physical form – Wearing apparel – fabric – or cloth

Reexamination Certificate

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C424S401000, C424S065000

Reexamination Certificate

active

06440439

ABSTRACT:

FIELD OF THE INVENTION
This invention relates to hair treatment compositions having conditioning benefits and which contain certain fatty acid polyesters of polyols.
BACKGROUND AND PRIOR ART
Fatty acid polyesters of cyclic polyols and/or sugar derivatives have been described in general as a component of hair conditioning formulations in the following documents:
WO98/04241 discloses that a conditioning system comprising a mixture of polyol carboxylic acid ester and particular nonionic water-soluble polymers is valuable in shampoo compositions for the delivery of improved hair feel and manageability. Cationic cellulose derivative polymer materials may be included in the compositions as optional ingredients.
WO96/37594 discloses a mild, foam producing personal cleansing composition with good skin feel attributes which is based on a combination of an oil dispersing nonionic surfactant and dispersed oil phase which is a mixture of a liquid polyol fatty acid polyester and the second oil component comprising one or more non-polar oils preferably selected from mineral oil, petrolatum, water-insoluble silicones, soya bean oils and mixtures thereof. The use of this mixed oil system is said to deliver improved skin feel.
WO98/04240 describes a shampoo composition containing a particular surfactant base of short chain alkyl sulphate and alkyl ethoxy sulphate in combination with a conditioning system comprising an insoluble oil conditioning agent selected from silicone materials, liquid polyol carboxylic acid esters and mixtures thereof.
JP-A-10/077,215 describes a cosmetic material consisting of saccharide fatty acid ester and one or more siloxanes selected from methyl polysiloxane, methyl phenyl siloxane and methyl polycyclosiloxane. The composition is said to provide good combing and feel after washing when used as a hair rinse or treatment. Exemplified are saccharide fatty acid esters having straight chain saturated fatty acid chains of 18-22 carbon atoms, such as stearic, behenic, 12-hydroxystearic and lanolin fatty acid.
WO98/52528 describes topical emollient compositions for hair or skin which comprise a combination of liquid polyol fatty acid polyester and solid oil. The liquid polyol polyesters employed are preferably sugars or sugar alcohols esterified with one or more fatty acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. In order to provide liquid polyesters of suitable type, it is stated that at least about half of the fatty acid incorporated into the polyester molecule must be unsaturated, and that the especially preferred fatty acids in this context are oleic and linoleic acids, and mixtures thereof.
WO98/52531 refers to occlusive emollient cosmetic formulations for hair or skin including solid polyol fatty acid polyesters and liquid oils. The solid polyol fatty acid polyester is typically a sugar polyester and contains a mixture of saturated and unsaturated fatty acid chains. At least 15%, most preferably at least 60% by weight of the total fatty acid moieties of the polyesters are C20 or higher saturated fatty acid moieties.
The present inventors have found that certain selected fatty acid polyesters of cyclic polyols and/or sugar derivatives give surprisingly improved overall conditioning when incorporated into a hair treatment composition.
Furthermore, hair softness is particularly improved.
The compositions of the invention also have particular utility in the treatment of hair which has been damaged, e.g. through environmental exposure or harsh mechanical or chemical treatments such as heat styling, perming or bleaching. In such cases, the benefits of softness and ease of combing provided by compositions of the present invention are especially apparent.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention provides a hair treatment composition comprising a fatty acid polyester of a polyol selected from cyclic polyols, sugar derivatives and mixtures thereof, in which at least 50% by weight of the total fatty acid moieties of the polyester are C20 or higher unsaturated fatty acid moieties.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION AND PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
(i) Fatty Acid Polyester
An essential component in hair treatment compositions of the invention is a fatty acid polyester of a polyol selected from cyclic polyols, sugar derivatives and mixtures thereof, in which at least 50% by weight of the total fatty acid moieties of the polyester are C20 or higher unsaturated fatty acid moieties.
By “polyol” is meant a material having at least four hydroxyl groups. The polyols used to prepare the fatty acid polyester will preferably have from 4 to 12, more preferably from 4 to 11, most preferably from 4 to 8 hydroxyl groups.
By “fatty acid polyester” is meant a material in which at least two of the ester groups are independently of one another attached to a fatty (C
8
to C
22
alkyl or alkenyl) chain. For a given material, prefixes such as “tetra-”, “penta-” indicate the average degrees of esterification. The compounds exist as a mixture of materials ranging from the monoester to the fully esterified ester.
Cyclic polyols are the preferred polyols used to prepare the fatty acid polyester in the present invention. Examples include inositol, and all forms of saccharides. Saccharides, in particular monosaccharides and disaccharides, are especially preferred.
Examples of monosaccharides include xylose, arabinose, galactose, fructose, sorbose and glucose. Glucose is especially preferred.
Examples of disaccharides include maltose, lactose, cellobiose and sucrose. Sucrose is especially preferred.
Examples of suitable sugar derivatives include sugar alcohols, such as xylitol, erythritol, maltitol and sorbitol, and sugar ethers such as sorbitan.
At least 50% by weight of the total fatty acid moieties of the polyesters are C20 or higher unsaturated fatty acid moieties. Preferably, at least 60% by weight of the total fatty acid moieties of the polyesters are C20 or higher unsaturated fatty acid moieties.
Examples of suitable C20 or higher unsaturated fatty acid moieties include erucate, brassidate, nervonate, arachidonate, eicosapentaenoate, eicosenate, eicosadienate, eicosatrienate, docosadienoate, docosatrienoate, docosatetraenoate and docosahexaenoate. For oxidative stability, the mono- and diunsaturated fatty acid moieties are preferred.
Erucate is particularly preferred.
Mixed fatty acid moieties from source oils which contain substantial amounts of the desired unsaturated acids can be used as the acid moieties to prepare fatty acid polyesters suitable for use in the hair treatment composition of the invention. The mixed fatty acids from the oils should contain at least 50%, most preferably at least 60% of the desired unsaturated acids. For example, high erucic rapeseed oil fatty acids can be used instead of pure C20-C22 unsaturated acids. Preferably the C20 and higher acids, or their derivatives, e.g. methyl or other lower alkyl esters, are concentrated, for example by distillation.
Specific examples of suitable fatty acid polyesters are sucrose trierucate, sucrose pentaerucate, sucrose tetraerucate, sucrose trirapeate, sucrose tetrarapeate, and sucrose pentarapeate, and mixtures thereof.
Sucrose pentaerucate and sucrose tetraerucate are particularly preferred. These materials are available commercially as Ryoto Sugar Esters ex Mitsubishi Kasei Foods.
The fatty acid polyester can be prepared by a variety of methods well known to those skilled in the art. These methods include acylation of the cyclic polyol or reduced saccharide with an acid chloride; trans-esterification of the cyclic polyol or reduced saccharide fatty acid esters using a variety of catalysts; acylation of the cyclic polyol or reduced saccharide with an acid anhydride and acylation of the cyclic polyol or reduced saccharide with a fatty acid. Typical preparations of these materials are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,386,213 and AU 14416/88.
The total amount of fatty acid polyester in hair treatment compositions of the invention is generally from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5%, more preferably from 0

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