Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions – Permanent waving or straightening
Reexamination Certificate
1999-03-05
2001-05-08
Page, Thurman K. (Department: 1615)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Live hair or scalp treating compositions
Permanent waving or straightening
C424S401000, C424S070100, C424S070110
Reexamination Certificate
active
06228353
ABSTRACT:
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
This invention relates to hair treatment compositions, and more particularly to hair treatment compositions formulated to be rinsed from the scalp after application and which contain amino acid actives to modify or nourish the hair or hair root.
BACKGROUND AND PRIOR ART
Amino acids are known to be important for the nourishment of the human hair root and the growth of human hair. For example, keratin hydrolysates, a source of amino acids in both free and peptide form, are a common ingredient of hair shampoos and the like. Numerous publications describe the use of an array of amino acids in lotions or tonics for topical application to cure baldness and other skin, scalp and hair disorders.
However, to achieve efficacy from rinse-off hair treatment formulations it is necessary to deliver active ingredients to the site of action, and the benefits attainable are frequently limited for substances such as amino acids, since a large proportion tends to be removed during the rinse stage.
Conventional approaches to this problem have entailed increasing application time, and increasing concentration of the active ingredient in the formulation. For example, Franz et al, Fundam.Appl.Toxicol. 21 (1993) 213-221 demonstrates different rank orders for penetration from various generic prototype personal products formulations as a function of the applied dose. This is not feasible under normal in-use conditions, and can result in barrier damage through prolonged contact time.
There is therefore a need for a rinse-off hair treatment proving enhanced delivery of amino acid.
Metal-amino acid complexes are known and available as such from the prior art. There is a body of literature describing the complexes as a way to administer metals as dietary supplements in a non-toxic way to animals. The amino acid is there to reduce the toxicology profile of heavy metals. In the personal care area, metal-amino acid complexes have been used in hair colouring compositions (Cu or Zn cysteinate, U.S. Pat. No. 4 173,453), antipruritic drugs (zinc-aminoacid conjugates, WO92/10178), and anti-inflammatory creams (SU 1382477). However improved deposition/substantivity of the amino acid portion in a topical formulation is not discussed. GB 937,362 describes compositions for the care and growth of skin, hair and nails containing one or more magnesium compounds of an alpha-aminoacid. The acid residue is described as a carrier for the specific introduction of magnesium into the skin and hair cells. U.S. Pat. No. 4,652,445 describes a no-rinse hair conditioner product with the addition of “zinc-releasing ingredients” to supplement the hair fibre with zinc. The zinc-releasing chemicals may be zinc amino acid complexes, but are preferably zinc-protein or zinc-keratin.
It has now been found that enhanced deposition of amino acid from a rinse-off hair treatment composition can be achieved by incorporation of the amino acid into the composition as a complex with a metal ion. This offers a performance and cost advantage through improved delivery of the amino acid nutrient to the target substrate, ie hair and/or scalp, per unit dose.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
In one aspect the present invention provides a rinse-off hair treatment composition for improved delivery of amino-acid to the hair and/or scalp comprising:
(a) a particulate metal-amino acid complex;
(b) at least one surfactant; and
(c) a deposition aid.
In a second aspect the invention provides a method of enhancing the deposition-of an amino acid from a rinse-off hair treatment composition, comprising incorporating the amino acid into the composition in the form of a particulate metal-amino acid complex.
In a third aspect the invention provides the use of a particulate metal-amino acid complex, for enhancing the deposition of amino acid from a rinse-off hair treatment composition.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION AND PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
Amino Acid
Examples of the amino acid moiety from which the particulate metal-amino acid complex is derived include:
arginine
aspartic acid
citrulline
cysteine
cystine
cystathionine
glutamic acid
glutamine
glycine
isoleucine
lysine
methionine
ornithine
serine, and
valine.
Particularly preferred are cysteine, arginine, serine, glutamic acid, glutamine, isoleucine, lysine, methionine and valine.
It is also possible to employ derivatives of the amino acids. Examples include where free -NH2 groups of the amino acid are modified by one or more of the following:
(i) acyl groups, eg N-alkanoyl in which the alkanoyl moiety has an alkyl chain length of from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 10, eg N-butanoyl, N-hexanoyl, and N-octanoyl;
(ii) ester groups, eg those in which the alkyl group is straight chain and of from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, eg methyl, ethyl and n-propyl;
(iii) amino acid residues; and
(iv) peptide residues comprising from 2 to 8 amino acid residues.
Mixtures of the amino acids or derivatives thereof may also be used. A single molecule of metal complex itself may also contain different amino acids.
Metal Ion
Preferably the metal ion has a valency of at least 2.
Examples of the metal ion from which the particulate metal-amino acid complex is derived include Fe, Cu, Ca, Mn, Sn, Ti and Zn. The most preferred metal ion is Zn; this is thought to confer damage protection to the hair.
Mixtures of metal ions may be used. Also, the same molecule of metal complex may contain more than one metal ion, which metal ions may be the same or different.
In highly preferred compositions of the present invention, the particulate metal-amino acid complex is zinc cysteinate or zinc glutamate, or a mixture of the two.
Particle Size
The average particle size of the metal-amino acid complex in compositions of the invention may range from 0.05 to 50 microns. Our studies,(using fluorescent microspheres of different sizes as model particles, with visualisation of particle deposition on the skin using confocal laser scanning microscopy) indicate that particle size does influence the extent and location of deposition, and that a particularly preferred average particle size range for targeted delivery to the hair follicles is 3-10 microns.
The amount of particulate metal-amino acid complex incorporated in compositions of the invention is suitably from bout 0.001 to about 10% by weight of the total composition, ore preferably from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight.
Surfactant
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant, preferably chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
A particularly preferred hair treatment composition in accordance with the invention is a shampoo composition in which at least one surfactant provides a deterging benefit. The deterging surfactant is preferably selected from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
Suitable anionic surfactants include the alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, N-alkoyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, and alpha-olefin sulphonates, especially their sodium, magnesium ammonium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl and acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated. The alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylates may contain from one to 10 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule, and preferably contain 2 to 3 ethylene oxide units per molecule.
Examples of suitable anionic surfactants include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulphonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl isethionate and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate. The most preferred anionic surfactants are sodium lauryl sulphate, triethanolamine lauryl sulphate, triethanolamine monolauryl phosphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate 1EO, 2EO
Carr Stuart William
Carvell Melvin
Cornwell Paul Alfred
Desmond Therese
Waller Andrew Mark
Boxer Matthew
Channavajjala Lakshmi
Helene Curtis Inc.
Page Thurman K.
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