Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions – Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant containing
Patent
1987-09-30
1989-08-08
Robinson, Ellis P.
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Live hair or scalp treating compositions
Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant containing
252DIG13, 424 71, A61K 706, A61K 7075, A61K 708
Patent
active
048551309
DESCRIPTION:
BRIEF SUMMARY
DESCRIPTION
The invention is directed to hair treating compositions based on a synergistic combination of glycine, an aliphatic organic acid which is free of amino groups, and a wax and/or oil component. The subject matter of the patent application is also a process for improving the condition of the hair.
The structure of the hair is damaged by means of frequent bleaching, permanent waving and dyeing and frequent washing of the hair with degreasing surfactants. The hair becomes brittle and it loses its luster. Moreover, the hair is charged with static electricity during combing and the roughened hair surface causes matting and knotting of the hair. This makes combing much more difficult.
Hair treating compositions which act so as to improve combing ability and care for the hair have therefore achieved considerable importance. For example, such compositions are frequently distributed in the hair after washing while it is still wet in the form of a clear hair care rinse or in the form of an emulsion, as so-called cream rinse, allowed to act for a period of several minutes to an hour, and then rinsed out with water.
Cationic surfactants, particularly quaternary ammonium compounds such as cetyltrimethylammonium chloride are primarily used in combination with various wax-like additions, for example, petrolatum, fatty alcohols, and fatty acid esters, as active ingredients for improving the structure of the hair.
However, hair treating compositions based on the aforementioned conditioning active ingredients have satisfactory results only in the treatment of dry and porous hair. They are less well-suited for the treatment of hair which rapidly becomes greasy again, since the natural regreasing of the hair is reinforced through their application, so that the holding ability of the hair styling is worsened in turn.
The reasons for the heavy regreasing of the hair are, on the one hand, the residue of the hair treating composition remaining in the hair after rinsing, and, on the other hand, the cationic emulsifiers contained in these compositions. The cationic emulsifiers absorbed by the hair cause a waterproofing of the hair surface so that the secretions of the sebaceous glands can be distributed in the hair more rapidly. Moreover, because of their incompatibility with anionic surfactants, cationic emulsifiers cannot be worked into hair treating compositions with a content of these surfactants, as in many shampoos or hair dyeing compositions, for example.
It is to be noted, in addition, that cationic surfactants, as a rule, have a poor compatibility with skin and mucous membranes. For this reason, the effectiveness of the conventional cream rinse on the hair can be increased only to a limited extent by means of increasing the concentration of surfactants.
It has already been tried repeatedly to avoid the aforementioned disadvantages by means of applying amino acids, such as a slightly acidic mixture of various amino acids and vitamins (see U.S. Pat. No. 4,201,235), as a hair conditioning component in hair treating compositions. However, it is very costly and expensive to produce these mixtures consisting of a plurality of various vitamins and amino acids.
Moreover, the use of keratin hydrolyzates and citric acids in a "neutralizing shampoo" is known from the text "Cosmetics & Toiletries", vol. 98 (1983), pages 59 to 68. However, this shampoo has only a slight hair caring action and leads to a considerable drying out of the hair. For this reason, a subsequent, possibly even repeated treatment with a hair conditioning composition is required after washing the hair.
It is also known from the text W. Fassbender, Parfumerie und Kosmetik [manufacture of perfumes and cosmetics] 39 (1), pages 11 to 16 (1958) that amino acid sols containing 18 to 22 different amino acids can be used in pharmaceutics and cosmetics, for example, in skin treating and hair care compositions which are adjusted so as to be slightly acidic. The production of these amino acid sols is effected by means of fractionated hydrolysis of natural proteins
Hoch Dietrich
Konrad Eugen
Mager Herbert
Robinson Ellis P.
Rucker Susan S.
Striker Michael J.
Wella Aktiengesellschaft
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