Toilet – Methods – Hair treatment by application of specific chemical composition
Reexamination Certificate
1999-08-02
2001-01-16
Philogene, Pedro (Department: 3732)
Toilet
Methods
Hair treatment by application of specific chemical composition
C132S205000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06173717
ABSTRACT:
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
1. Field of the Invention
The present invention relates to a process for gentle long-lasting shaping (permanent waving or uncurling) of human hair whereby the hair-shaping agent is rinsed off before the winding or the use of other fastening means or, in the case of uncurling, before combing.
2. Prior Art
The shaping of hair by the conventional permanent waving method is achieved in that prewashed and thus swollen, but not previously reduced, hair is bent under tension (tensile stress) by use of a shaping device, particularly a curler, and treated with the permanent wave reducing agent. The permanent wave agent is allowed to act on the wound hair for 3 to 30 min, depending on the hair shaping desired, until reshaping has taken place. After exposure of the hair to the permanent wave agent, excess reducing agent is removed with water or by use of an acidic rinse. Despite thorough rinsing, however, a small amount of reducing agent remains on the hair surface and inside the hair (for more details see SOFW Journal 123, pp. 79-83, 1997). After rinsing, the cystine disulfide bonds are reformed by use of a fixative, namely of an oxidant-containing agent.
In the conventional permanent waving method, as a rule, the hair-dresser determines the time of exposure to the reducing agent-containing shaping agent by assessing the degree of shaping with several test curlers. The hair-dresser is often uncertain and extends the exposure time to ensure adequate shaping. An excessively long exposure, however, results in an overtreatment of the hair, particularly along the hair shaft and at the hair tips. This is known as overcurling. It manifests itself, on the one hand, visually, in that the curls along the shaft and at the tip of the hair are very small (frizzing), and, on the other, in that the overcurled hair region feels limp despite the frizzing and shows inadequate elasticity. Such overcurling effects cause irreversible, permanent hair damage.
German Patent Application G8775 IVa/30h published on 10-4-1956 discloses a method for permanent shaping of keratin fibers whereby the keratin fibers, wound and exposed to a reactive reducing solution, are rinsed with water after a period of time that is insufficient for conventional shaping, and the fibers are then left on the curlers for 2 to 3.5 hours to expose them to air oxidation. The use of a chemical fixing agent is not required. This time-consuming and for the customer troublesome method has not been accepted by hair-dressers.
DE-A-36 10 394 discloses a process for shaping hair whereby the hair is treated at pH 6.0 to 7.5 with a hair-shaping shampoo containing from 1.5 to 12 wt % of at least one surfactant and from 2 to 15 wt % of at least one hair keratin-reducing substance. The hair is then rinsed with water, optionally wound onto curlers, optionally rinsed with water and then subjected to an oxidative aftertreatment.
Currently used shaping processes have in common the feature that the reducing permanent shaping agent acts on the hair in undiminished strength for a period of time required for hair shaping and thus, particularly after repeated hair shaping, causes irreversible hair damage, professionally referred to as “overcurling”. The negative consequences for the hair are poor elasticity and springiness, reduced tensile strength, poor hair-styling properties and reduced sheen.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
To reduce the afore-said overcurling effects, a new process was sought whereby the time of action of the chemical permanent wave agent on the hair would be markedly reduced and whereby the contact of the reducing agent with scalp would be limited to a minimum compared to conventional processes. As a result, the hair structure would be damaged to a lesser degree. Moreover, after removing the reducing agent, the residual thio compounds remaining inside the hair could also be utilized for hair shaping.
Surprisingly, we have now found that this objective can be reached by use of a process for shaping and volumizing hair characterized in that
a) an alkaline permanent shaping agent having pH 7.6 to 11 based on a hair keratin-reducing substance is applied to the hair,
b) the permanent shaping agent is allowed to act on the hair at room temperature for 5 to 30 min or at an elevated temperature for 2 to 20 min,
c) the hair is optionally rinsed with water,
d) the hair is treated with an acidic aqueous intermediate treatment agent having pH 2 to 6.5 and based on a salt, a betaine, an aliphatic organic acid and/or an aliphatic amino acid,
e) excess liquid is dabbed off the hair,
f) the hair is wound onto curlers, or some other shaping device or fastening means is used, or the hair is given a new shape in any other manner,
g) the hair is allowed to rest up to 30 min at room temperature or up to 20 min at an elevated temperature,
h) after step e) or step g), the hair is treated with an oxidant-based fixative,
i) the curlers or the other shaping or fastening means, if they were used, are removed, and
j) the fixative is removed from the hair by rinsing with water or by washing with a shampoo, and the hair is combed to obtain the desired hair style.
By the process according to the invention, the, preferably dry, hair is treated with a sufficient amount, for example 60 to 120 g, of a permanent hair shaping agent in the form of a liquid, cream or gel and based on a hair keratin-reducing substance. Particularly suitable creamy or gel-like permanent shaping agents are those which adhere well to dry hair. The permanent hair shaping agent is applied to the hair and reaches the inside of the hair in undiluted form. After a defined, short exposure time, the reducing phase can be interrupted without there being any hindering shaping devices on the entire head by rinsing the entire head with an acidic intermediate treating agent in the form of a rinse. In this manner, the reduced hair takes up water. The residual reducing agent remaining after rinsing is intentionally utilized for shaping and volumizing. The shaping process is promoted by two factors: The hair is arranged into the desired shape not only in a preswollen, but also in a prereduced condition.
Depending on the hair structure, the shaping and volumizing by the process described herein can be carried out in one step (reducing, rinsing, fixing and then winding) or two steps (reducing, rinsing, winding and then fixing). The novel process thus provides hair-dressers and customers with the advantage that individual requests can be met, particularly those referring to the hair structure, by reducing and fixing the hair by a one-step process or first reducing and then fixing by a two-step process.
Surprisingly, we have found that by the process according to the invention, particularly when thickened permanent hair shaping agents are used (cream, gel, paste), a more pronounced shaping effect can be achieved partly or completely, while using the same the exposure time as with liquid permanent hair shaping agents, on dry hair (unwashed, dry hair or washed and dried hair) rather than on moist hair as in the conventional waving process.
For uncurling, the hair can be given a new shape by combing rather than by use of (large) curlers. This embodiment of the process of the invention is characterized in that
A) an alkaline permanent shaping agent in the form of a cream, gel or paste, based on a hair keratin-reducing substance and having a pH of 7.6 to 11, is applied to the hair,
B) the permanent shaping agent is allowed to act on the hair at room temperature for 5 to 30 min or at an elevated temperature for 2 to 20 min,
C) the hair is rinsed with water,
D) to the hair is applied an acidic aqueous intermediate treatment agent in the form of a cream, gel or paste having pH 2 to 6.5 and based on a salt, a betaine, an aliphatic organic acid and/or an aliphatic amino acid,
E) the hair is combed out (preferably 1 to 3 times),
F) the hair is allowed to rest up to 30 min at room temperature or up to 20 min at an elevated temperature,
G) the hair is treated with an oxidant-based fixative,
H) the fixative
Dannecker Beate
Hoch Dieter
Kalbacher Wilfried K.
Lang G{umlaut over (u)}nther
Markl Johann
Philogene Pedro
Striker Michael J.
Wella Aktiengesellschaft
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