Hair conditioning formulation for mending split ends

Details Hair conditioning formulation for mending split ends Hair conditioning formulation for mending split ends

1999-08-27

2001-07-10

Page, Thurman K. (Department: 1615)

Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions

Live hair or scalp treating compositions

Polymer containing

C424S070100, C424S070110, C424S070120, C424S070270, C424S070280

Reexamination Certificate

active

06258348

ABSTRACT:

FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention concerns a hair formulation containing a polysaccharide gum in combination with a betaine based polyurethane surfactant and a polyurethane silicone. The formulation is useful in repairing split ends.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The problem of mechanical damage to hair can be approached cosmetically from two points of view: prevention—minimize the tangling and abrasive effects of handling the hair providing lubrication to reduce fiber friction, and repair—mend existing damage by depositing substances that will restore axial cohesion to splits or “fill in” areas of shaft damage. Shampooing is the cosmetic process to which the hair is exposed most frequently. The conditioner is a popular method to make combing easier, thus reducing mechanical damage. While both shampoos and conditioners that effectively prevent damage are known, there are no products in this category that effectively repair split ends. There are materials that are known to give hair improved dry combing and keep split ends closed. Cationic polymers (guars and other polysaccharides), due to their affinity to protein substrates, are known for having good wetting and combing properties. Sorbed polymers are effective in mending split ends, the split remaining mended under further abrasion of the dried fiber. Proteins have been used for many years in hair care products for their substantivity and mending effects.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,147,635 (Sep. 15, 1992; Inventors: J. Jachowicz and C. Ramireddy) discloses one-step cleaning and conditioning compositions, containing at least one urethane and urea group, which are derived from isocyanatoethyl (meth) acrylates or meth acrylic acids, that have good conditioning properties and can be formulated in the presence of a mixture of amphoteric and anionic surfactants. The invention deals with novel cationic polyelectrolytic materials, as well as their production, compositions containing these materials and methods of using the composition.
U.S. Pat. No. 4,900,545 (Feb. 13, 1990; Inventors: Wisotzki et al.) discloses a hair split end regeneration composition containing panthenol, saccharides, polynyvylperrolidone and triolemulsion. The disclosed composition for the regeneration of hair split ends is in an aqueous or aqueous/alcoholic solution.
Heretofore, a composition for the repair or regeneration of hair split-ends based on a guar, a betaine based polyurethane surfactant, and a silicone polyurethane has been unknown.
BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
This invention relates to a hair conditioning formulation that provides mending of the split ends of keratinous fibers, especially human hair. The composition of the present invention is an aqueous hair conditioning composition comprising:
A) guar gum;
B) a betaine based polyurethane surfactant; and
C) a silicone polyurethane.
The three components (i.e., A, B, and C) are present in the composition amounts effective to mend split ends of human hair to a degree greater than the same composition with only two of the three components. This invention is especially beneficial for colored, bleached, or relaxed hair.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The present invention provides aqueous hair care and treatment compositions comprising a guar, preferably an amphoteric or cationic guar (e.g., guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride, CTFA nomenclature), a betaine based polyurethane surfactant, and a silicone polyurethane.
In general, the guar component of the compositions in accordance with the present invention is an amphoteric guar gum or a cationic derivative of guar gum or locust bean gum. Cationic guars are disclosed in, for example, Japanese Patent No. 5345708, U.S. Pat. No.4,557,928 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,387,090, the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Amphoteric guars are available, for example, from Meyhall Chemicals under the trademark “Meyprobond 120” and from National Starch and Chemical. Other amphoteric and cationic guar gums which may be used in connection with the present invention, are commercially available from various sources, including Henkel Corporation (Minneapolis, Minn., U.S.A.) and Celanese Plastics & Specialities Company (Louisville, Ky., U.S.A.) under the trade marks GENDRIV and CELBOND. Chemical derivatization of guar is carried out mainly through the hydroxyl groups of the galactose or the mannose units of guar of which primary (6 and 6′) hydroxyls are the most reactive. Preferred substituents for amphoteric guar are —OCH
2
COONa and —OCH
2
CHOHCH
2
—N(CH
3
)
3
Cl. Suitable guars useful herein are polygalactomannans containing two mannose units with a glycoside linkage and a galactose unit attached to one of the hydroxyl groups of the mannose units.
Synthesis of amphoteric guar useful herein can be prepared according to the following scheme:
Wherein SMCA is sodium monochloroacetate.
The degree of substitution (DS) is defined as the ratio of the number of substituted hydroxyls in the sugar (galatose/mannose) to the average number of hydroxyls available per repeat unit. The type and the extent of derivatization largely depend on the process as well as the reagents chosen for the reaction.
A preferred amphoteric guar useful herein has repeating units as follows:
wherein R
1
is —OCH
2
COONa and R2 is —OCH
2
CHOHCH
2
—N
+
(CH
3
)
3
CL.
To prepare cationic guars, the hydroxyl groups are reacted with certain reactive quaternary ammonium compounds to obtain the cationic derivative.
The quaternary ammonium compounds suitable for preparing the cationic gum derivatives of the present invention have the structure:
wherein R
1
, R
2
and R
3
are alkyl, aryl and substituted alkyl and aryl groups; R
4
is selected from the group consisting of epoxyalkyl and halohydrin, and Z
−
is an anion, e.g., Cl
−
, Br
−
, l
31
and HSO
4
−
. Suitable epoxyalkyl groups have the structure:
Suitable halohydrins have the structure:
wherein R
5
is a divalent alkylene of 1 to 3 carbons, and X is a halogen.
Particularly preferred is the compound 3-(trimethylamino)-2-hydroxypropyl guar chloride which has the structure:
wherein R is the polygalactomannan molecule based on guar, and is sold as Cosmedia Guar 216N by Henkel Corporation.
Particularly preferred for use in the compositions of the present invention are quatemary ammonium derivatives of hydroxypropyl guar, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, which is exemplified by the JAGUAR products commercially available from Rhodia. The most preferred cationic guar has the CTFA designation: guarhydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (Trade Name: Jaguar C-13S).
A preferred amphoteric guar useful herein has the CTFA designation: carboxymethyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride available from National Starch and Chemical Company.
In accordance with the present invention, the aqueous hair compositions as described contain one or more of the above-described amphoteric guars and/or cationic guars, in combination with the betaine based polyurethane surfactant and silicone polyurethane, in an amount effective to mend or repair split ends of human hair. More particularly, the guar(s) are typically present in the compositions of the present invention in, an amount of from about 0.05% to about 5%, preferably, about 0.1% to about 4%, more preferably, about 0.2% to about 3% by weight, and most preferably about 0.25% to about 2%, based on the total weight of the composition. It will be appreciated that quantities of guar different from those specifically recited herein can be used, depending upon the other ingredients in the formulation and the desired effect of the formulation. In such instances, the actual amounts for use can be determined by routine testing.
It is also to be understood that unless otherwise specified herein, all components of the compositions of the present invention are present in % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
The betaine based polyurethane surfactant is amphoteric by virtue of the betaine moiety. The betaine based polyurethane surfacta

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