Geometrical instruments – Apparel – Processes
Patent
1994-07-08
1996-09-17
Will, Thomas B.
Geometrical instruments
Apparel
Processes
33 12, A41H 300
Patent
active
055556299
DESCRIPTION:
BRIEF SUMMARY
The invention relates to the preparation of patterns, and particularly those patterns to be used in the manufacture of garments. Such garments may be in the form of, for example, coats, trousers and dresses. The patterns which are the subject of the invention act as a template for the cutting of cloth to the said dimensions indicated by the pattern. The subsequent pieces of material are thus joined together to form a garment. The pattern is in effect the template from which all subsequent measurements are derived. The invention relates to the preparation of such patterns and improvements in the accuracy thereof.
At present the preparation of such patterns and the use of same to produce garments, is performed manually and with a surprisingly low degree of accuracy. The preparation and drawing up of such patterns is required to take into account the use of a factor which is commonly known as ease. The ease factor is a description of that amount of material which is allowed in addition to the required length of a seam to allow for the correct matching of two seams such that the pieces, when sewn, produce the required effect on the garment. The ease factor shall be similar for each part of a seam but may differ over the garment as a whole. In the preparation of patterns the ease factor must be taken into account such that the pattern outline to which the cloth is cut is not identical to the actual visible shape of cloth once seam as part of a garment but instead relates to the shape of material required incorporating the ease factor which ensures that the stitchlines formed therein can be sewn together to form the garment seems plus the factor allowed around the edge for ease.
At present the amount of material allocated for ease on any size of garment is largely dependant on the amount which is adjudged to be required for an "average" size garment. Furthermore the amount of ease allowed is referred to one seam only and this length of ease is then added to every other similar seam regardless and, although there are different requirements for each seam, no account is made of this. The differing requirements referred to may relate to the amount of ease required for differing lengths of seam which can alter the amount of ease required. In addition account should be taken of the variation in sizes of garments to be produced and also of the type of material from which the garment is to be produced.
A significant problem is currently encountered in that due to the relatively random nature of designating the ease factor there is no accurate process available of checking the ease factor given to ensure that the optimum factors have been allocated.
The fact that at present there is no allowance made for alteration in the amount of ease allowed either with regard to the size of garment to be produced nor to the size of seam in question leads to the production of poor quality garments in that the seams to be joined are frequently of differing lengths due to insufficient ease allowance. This has an adverse effect on the appearance and uniformity of the product. Alternatively the production of the said garments can be expensive if it is the fact that excessive ease is allowed. This leads to the percentage of cloth allowed for the requirements of ease being greater than necessary. This second problem occurs when the garment to be produced is smaller than the average size. This again produces a garment which is poorly finished and ill fitting.
Additional problems are encountered in the preparation of such patterns and specifically in the checking of the accuracy of the cut of the cloth in relation to the original pattern. This inaccuracy in cut can easily occur in preparation as any checking which is presently performed is of a visual, comparative nature. If the pattern is found to be wrong at a later date then the overall garment may be ruined and a substantial amount of downtime incurred, in correcting the faults.
The disadvantages of the current preparation methods as indicated above assume even greater significance when o
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Bracken Enterprises Limited
Will Thomas B.
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