Boots – shoes – and leggings
Patent
1996-03-11
1998-05-26
Voeltz, Emanuel T.
Boots, shoes, and leggings
36447002, 36447003, 36447004, 364560, 395904, 395912, 395 50, 395 51, G01B 5004
Patent
active
057576610
DESCRIPTION:
BRIEF SUMMARY
The present invention relates to a computer system for grading garments.
The quality and the value of a garment depend mainly on the cloth used and on the cut of the cloth. A garment constitutes a complex surface (two dimensions) that fits more or less closely around the volume (three dimensions) of the person to be clothed. The difficulty comes from the fact that initially each piece of a garment is a plane surface which must be adapted to variations in the volumes of individuals. In addition, ready-to-wear garments are in a style that may be or more less pronounced. A ready-to-wear garment thus manages to attenuate or hide imperfections in the anatomy of the wearer.
In conventional manner, when computed-aided design (CAD) is used for designing a new garment, a pattern is created for a given size, e.g. for pieces of the new garment are determined for that particular size. Other sizes to be worn by members of a population are obtained by "grading" which consists in feeding the computer with grading rules for the garments, i.e. the way in which the coordinates of characteristic points of the garments, in particular peripheral points thereof, vary with size for each piece of the garment. Firstly, these grading rules are worked out on the basis of the empirical knowledge of the person doing the grading, i.e. the "grader". Secondly, there are numerous grading rules for various types of garment. The difficulty in applying such a method lies in choosing appropriate rules for properly chosen characteristic points of each piece of a garment and for a given starting size.
The grader interprets scales of measurements for various garment sizes and deduces therefrom which rule is to be applied to the various points of the garment piece being processed.
Establishing these grading rules and/or applying them to garments, therefore takes up a considerable amount of time during which the computer-assisted design station (which is an expensive resource in short supply) is otherwise unavailable.
In addition, it can happen that unsuccessful grading can cause sales of the garment to slump in the shops and/or cause a high rate of return from mail-order sales. Various solutions have therefore been proposed for automating garment grading. Firstly, it is known that the various desired sizes can be obtained by making the various pieces of the garment so they are geometrically similar. The multiplication coefficients for the various sizes are deduced from the scales of measurements.
Clearly, given that the envelope of human beings (the skin) does not vary in geometrically similar manner with size, that type of grading is only approximate. Thus, it can only apply to loose garments, for example sportswear or sweatshirts. Applying such grading to town clothes leads to poor results that are accepted only in countries where the population is not very demanding about the cut of clothes.
FR-A-2 561 801 describes a computer system for automatically grading garments by applying a coefficient that is equal to the product of a multiplication coefficient between the various garment sizes as calculated from a measurement scale, and a correction factor stored in an additional scale.
Systems have also been proposed in which a set of rules is worked out corresponding to various characteristic points of a garment, and each characteristic point of the garment is associated with the name of the corresponding rule. Computer systems use a one-to-one relationship between rule names and point names to apply the appropriate rule to each characteristic point of the garment.
That system gives satisfaction providing satisfactory rules are available for a garment. However, it provides the user with no help in creating the rules themselves nor in choosing a set of rules that is most appropriate for a garment. All it does, once the set of rules has been chosen, is to apply them automatically to the shape of the garment being processed.
Consequently, an object of the present invention is to provide a grading system that provides high quality grading.
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REFERENCES:
patent: 3391392 (1968-07-01), Doyle
patent: 4677564 (1987-06-01), Paly et al.
patent: 5355444 (1994-10-01), Chirico
D. Stein at al., "Expert System for the Design and Manufacture of Made-to-Measure Clothing", Manufacturing Review, vol. 4, No. 2, Jun. 1991, pp. 126-138.
Lectra Systemes
Voeltz Emanuel T.
Wachsman Hal D.
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