Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Preparations characterized by special physical form – Cosmetic – antiperspirant – dentifrice
Reexamination Certificate
1999-03-09
2001-05-29
Page, Thurman K. (Department: 1615)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Preparations characterized by special physical form
Cosmetic, antiperspirant, dentifrice
C424S061000, C424S064000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06238679
ABSTRACT:
The invention relates to a film-forming composition, in particular a topical composition, comprising a film-forming polyurethane intended in particular for the cosmetic and/or dermatological fields. The invention also relates to a use of this composition to treat and care for keratin substances such as the skin, the nails, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the hair or mucous membranes such as the lips and the inside of the eyelids. The invention is intended more especially to treat and/or care for the nails.
Make-up compositions for the nails and the lips, comprising a polyurethane in aqueous dispersion as film-forming polymer, are known from patent applications EP-A-143,480, EP-A-648,485 and EP-A-775,483.
The film deposited on the nail or the lips after a film-forming composition has been applied should have good flexibility to prevent it from cracking or flaking. With this aim, it is a common practice to add plasticizers to the film-forming composition, allowing the flexibility of the film to be adjusted without weakening its physical strength.
Document EP-A-775,483 describes a lipstick composition comprising an aqueous polyurethane dispersion plasticized with glycerol. Glycerol has a Hansen solubility parameter dH at 25° C. equal to 29.30.
Document EP-A-637,600 describes nail varnish compositions comprising an aqueous polyester-polyurethane dispersion and a plasticizing solvent such as dipropylene glycol n-butyl ether, which has a Hansen solubility parameter dH at 25° C. equal to 8.7, or propylene glycol monophenyl ether, which has a Hansen parameter dH at 25° C. equal to 13.
Varnishes in an organic solvent medium containing a citrate are also known from documents EP-A-613,676 and JP-A03,112,916.
Moreover, film-forming compositions such as nail varnishes should have certain rheological properties, such as low viscosity, in order to make them easy to apply, in particular using a brush. With this aim, it is desirable for the composition not to become thick in the bottle over time and thus to remain stable throughout the period of storage.
However, the inventor has found that compositions comprising an aqueous polyurethane dispersion and certain plasticizers have a tendency to thicken over time. This increase in viscosity takes place more particularly when the composition is stored at high temperature, in particular at and above 45° C., and especially after one week, or alternatively several months at room temperature. The composition thus thickened is difficult to apply and does not give a deposit of a uniform and continuous film. Certain plasticizers even solidify inside the bottle, making the composition unusable.
The aim of the invention is to propose a film-forming composition containing an aqueous dispersion of polyurethane particles which has good cosmetic and/or stability properties and does not have the disadvantages mentioned above.
The inventor has discovered that such a composition can be obtained by using a specific selection of plasticizers. These plasticizers allow the composition to be stored at high temperature, in particular at 45° C., for two weeks or even several months, while avoiding any substantial increase in the Viscosity of the composition over time. A film-forming composition whose viscosity is stable over time is thus obtained. The composition is easy to apply, in particular using a brush, onto the support to be treated, such as, for example, keratin substances.
The subject of the invention is a film-forming composition comprising at least one aqueous dispersion of polyurethane particles and at least one plasticizer, characterized in that the plasticizer is chosen from solvents with an average Hansen solubility parameter dH at 25° C. such that dH≦8 (J/cm
3
)
½
.
Preferably, the plasticizer according to the invention can also have an average Hansen solubility parameter dP at 25° C. such that dP≦3 (J/cm
3
)
½
, and better still dP≦2 (J/cm
3
)
½
.
The definition of the solvents in the three-dimensional solubility space according to Hansen is described in the article by C. M. Hansen: “The three dimensional solubility parameters” J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967), which is specifically incorporated by reference herein;
dH characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc. interactions);
dP characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles.
The parameters dP and dH are expressed in (J/cm
3
)
½
.
According to the invention, the plasticizer can be chosen from C3-C10 dialkyl adipates, C3-C10 dialkyl phthalates and acetyl tributyl citrate.
Preferably, the plasticizer can be chosen from dibutyl phthalate (dH=7.5; dP=2.8), bis(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (dH=5.92; dP=1.76), diisopropyl adipate (dH=7.76; dP=2.98), dibutyl adipate (dH=7.28; dP 2.63), bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate (dH=5.97; dP 1.76) and acetyl tributyl citrate (dH=7.09; dP 1.75).
Preferably, the plasticizer can be chosen from dibutyl phthalate, diisopropyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate and acetyl tributyl citrate.
The polyurethane in aqueous dispersion can preferably be an anionic polyurethane. This anionic nature is due in particular to the presence of groups containing a carboxylic acid or sulphonic acid functional group in the polymer.
According to the invention, one or more aqueous dispersions of one or more polyurethanes can be used.
The polyurethane can preferably be chosen from polyesterpolyurethanes and polyetherpolyurethanes, and preferably from anionic polyesterpolyurethanes.
Advantageously, the aqueous polyurethane dispersion can be chosen from those in which the polyurethane particle size ranges from 2 to 100 nm and in which the hardness of a film obtained after drying, for 24 hours at 30° C. and at 50% relative humidity, of a layer 300 &mgr;m thick (before drying) of an aqueous dispersion containing 28% solids of the said polyurethane particles ranges from 15 to 300 seconds.
The hardness of the film is measured according to ASTM standard D43-66, or NF-T standard 30-016 (October 1981), using a Persoz balance.
Preferred polyurethanes which can be used according to the invention are the polyesterpolyurethanes sold under the names “Avalure UR-405®”, “Avalure UR-425®”, “Sancure 2060®” by the company Sanncor and the polyetherpolyurethanes sold under the names “Sancure 878®”, by the company Sanncor and “Neorez R 970®” by the company ICI.
According to the invention, the polyurethane can preferably be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 3 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably from 10% to 35% by weight.
In the composition according to the invention, the plasticizer can preferably be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention can additionally contain adjuvants commonly used in cosmetic compositions, in particular topical cosmetic compositions. Examples of adjuvants which may be used are dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents, lakes, anti-UV agents, preserving agents, thickeners, surfactants, waxes, fragrances and moisturizers. Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select optional adjuvants, and the amount thereof, such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the addition envisaged.
The composition according to the invention can advantageously be used to treat, make up or care for keratin substances or mucous membranes depending on the nature of the active agents used. The make-up composition can be a nail varnish, an eyeliner, a mascara, a foundation, a concealer, an eyeshadow, a blusher, a lipstick (lip gloss) or a make-up composition for the body.
The composition according to the invention can advantageously be
Finnegan Henderson Farabow Garrett & Dunner L.L.P.
Howard S.
L'Oreal (S.A.)
Page Thurman K.
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