Textiles: weaving – Warp manipulation – Shedding
Patent
1981-10-05
1984-04-03
Kee Chi, James
Textiles: weaving
Warp manipulation
Shedding
139 85, 139319, 139455, D03C 300, D03C 1300
Patent
active
044401965
DESCRIPTION:
BRIEF SUMMARY
The present invention relates to a mechanical system for industrial weaving loom capable of making figured fabrics, as a Jacquard loom may do, in which a layer of parallel warp yarns is progressively advanced step by step, certain of the warp yarns selected by programming means as a function of the coloured pattern or the weave of the fabric to be made are raised at each step, a weft yarn is passed between the raised warp yarns and the non-raised warp yarns of the layer, the yarns or certain of the raised yarns are lowered and the weft yarn thus passed is pressed, by means of a reed, against the other weft yarns already woven, i.e. against the front of the fabric already made which, during this time, is wound on a reel or beam as the weaving program advances step by step.
This type of weaving loom for figured fabrics is of considerable interest as it makes it possible to make fabrics of infinite variety both concerning the texture or weave of the fabric and concerning the decoration made simply by the skilfully studied interlacing of the weft yarns and the warp yarns. The whole problem of making a pattern resides, at each weaving step, in the selection of those warp yarns which must be lifted before the passage of a determined weft yarn.
In order not to be limited in precision in making a design, particularly a coloured design, it should be theoretically possible to raise individually any of the warp yarns for the passage of a weft yarn, and this, moreover, is the basic principle of the Jacquard invention. However, in practice, the weave must be able to be very close, which leads to having such a small spacing between warp yarns that one can only lift several yarns at a time, even if the spacing of the warp yarns is increased at the place where the weft yarn passes or if one effects the equivalent of an increase in spacing of the warp yarns by raising them by harness cords stretched obliquely, diverging upwardly. In fact, the warp yarns must be raised by mechanisms whose dimensions have never yet been able to be reduced to correspond to a weaving which is as close as desired, whilst enabling a pattern to be woven over large widths (the present invention typically seeks to make a fabric width of 140 cm or more with 10 yarns to the millimeter, which has never been done before, with a view to making, for example, furnishing fabrics with a panoramic decoration rather than a decoration repeated several times in a fabric width as is done at present).
To effect this performance, as well as others, the present invention proposes a mechanical system for a weaving loom of the type described previously, i.e. comprising a system for advancing a plurality of wrap yarns disposed in a layer, a system for seletively raising selected warp yarns, coupled to means for programming the choice of the warp yarns to be raised, and a system for insertion of weft yarn between raised warp yarns and non-raised warp yarns, the system for raising the warp yarns comprising a plurality of harness cords (one per warp yarn) which are yarns stretched substantially perpendicularly to the layer of warp yarns, each harness cord comprising a loop or eyelet in which a warp yarn passes so that the warp yarn may be raised by traction on one end of the corresponding harness cord. According to the invention, each stretched harness cord moves away from the layer of warp yarns and passes in the groove of a respective pulley, individual harness cord displacement means being associated with the pulley to exert a traction on the cord and allow the cord to return, these means being disposed on the side opposite the side where the harness cord arrives on the pulley. In a preferred embodiment, the harness cord is hooked to the pulley and the individual displacement means are adapted to rotate the pulley through an angle corresponding to the desired height of lift of warp yarns.
These displacement means peculiar to each harness cord and each pulley are therefore rejected rearwardly of the pulley with respect to the harness cord inlet side, so that they do no
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patent: 3867966 (1975-02-01), Wieland
patent: 4314463 (1982-02-01), Fuchs
Chi James Kee
Verdol S.A.
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