Dihydroxyacetone-based emulsion and its use in cosmetics

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Topical sun or radiation screening – or tanning preparations

Patent

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Details

514675, 514937, 514938, 514939, A61K 742

Patent

active

057470090

DESCRIPTION:

BRIEF SUMMARY
This application claims benefit of international application PCT/FR94/00341, filed Mar. 28, 1994.
The invention relates to an emulsion based on dihydroxyacetone or DHA and to the process for coloring the skin using such an emulsion.
Dihydroxyacetone or DHA is commonly used as an agent for artificially tanning the skin. In order to be applied uniformly to the skin, DHA is preferably formulated in the form of an emulsion, such as a cream or milk.
However, formulations in the emulsion form present problems of preservation on storage, in particular of stability and of development of color with time. Thus, it was possible to observe an instability of the emulsion with time, in particular when it is brought to 45.degree. C., and a development in the coloring towards the yellows and the ambers, in particular after storing for six weeks at 45.degree. C.
In addition, as such an emulsion is applied to the skin, research is directed at reducing the concentration of emulsifiers, which can be irritating, by as much as possible. Such an emulsion must additionally have good cosmetic properties, that is to say be easy to spread and nonsticky after application, and have good resistance to water.
The DHA-based emulsions proposed until now generally present problems of preservation after a few days or a few weeks at 45.degree. C., take on an undesirable yellow or amber coloring or alternatively have the disadvantage of being sticky after application.
The Applicant company has discovered that by using a very specific emulsifier, in specific proportions, in a water-in-oil emulsion containing the DHA in the aqueous phase, the emulsifier being introduced into the fatty phase of the emulsion comprising specific proportions of isoparaffin or poly-.alpha.-olefin and optionally of silicone and of additional fatty substances, a composition for coloring the skin was obtained in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion which is stable on storage, which exhibits weak yellowing with time, which is nonirritating, which has good resistance to water and which has good cosmetic properties insofar as it is easy to spread and is nonsticky after application. In addition, this emulsion gives the skin an aesthetically improved coloring.
The subject of the invention is therefore a stable cosmetic emulsion for coloring the skin, of the water-in-oil type, consisting of: aqueous phase comprising 0.5 to 10% by weight of dihydroxyacetone, and a fatty phase comprising 5 to 15% by weight of isoparaffin or of poly-.alpha.-olefin and 3 to 7% by weight of an emulsifier consisting of a mixture of sorbitol and of glycerol esters of saturated or unsaturated, straight- or branched-chain C.sub.18 fatty acids, optionally containing a hydroxyl radical, these esters being oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated, the total number of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide units being less than or equal to 5, emulsion.
The emulsion according to the invention may also contain, in the fatty phase, up to 10% by weight of silicone and/or up to 15% by weight, on the basis of the total weight of the emulsion, of additional fatty substances such as C.sub.8 -C.sub.22 fatty acids, fatty alcohols, for example lauryl, cetyl, myristyl, stearyl, palmityl and oleyl alcohols, as well as 2-octyldodecanol, fatty acid esters, such as glyceryl monostearate and polyethylene glycol monostearate, and the triglycerides of C.sub.6 -C.sub.18 fatty acids, such as the triglycerides of caprylic/capric acid (Miglyol 812).
Dihydroxyacetone or DHA is present in the water-in-oil emulsion according to the invention in proportions which are sufficient to confer on the skin, after application, a coloring similar to the coloring obtained following natural tanning. It is generally present in proportions of between 0.5 and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the emulsion and preferably between 1 and 7% by weight.
A preferred emulsifier according to the invention is the polyoxyethylenated (2.5 mol of ethylene oxide) and polyoxypropylenated (1.5 mol of propylene oxide) derivative of a mixture of the glyc

REFERENCES:
patent: 5169624 (1992-12-01), Ziegler et al.
patent: 5229104 (1993-07-01), Sottery et al.
patent: 5547658 (1996-08-01), Hansenne et al.

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