Apparel apparatus – Forming – pressing – molding – and stretching – Forms
Reexamination Certificate
2000-12-07
2002-08-20
Lindsey, Rodney M. (Department: 3765)
Apparel apparatus
Forming, pressing, molding, and stretching
Forms
Reexamination Certificate
active
06435386
ABSTRACT:
The present invention relates to a device which assists in the design of new garments.
Clothing is usually designed to fit, and sometimes to support the human body. However, during the design stages of clothing development, there is currently no straightforward numerical and objective means of assessing fit and support.
For example, with respect to the design of bras, current methodology uses an iterative process. The bra design is tested on human models, then modified and retested, until the design is deemed correct. Such a “test-modify-retest” loop considerably adds to the time needed for a design to be finalized.
The present invention set out to address this design limitation.
Accordingly, in a first aspect, the present invention provides a design for assessing the potential fit of a garment on a wearer, the device comprising a support shaped to resemble a body part onto which the garment is to be fitted, an artificial tissue layer and at least one pressure sensor, the arrangement being such that the pressure sensor can detect and measure pressure exerted by a garment on the artificial tissue layer.
Preferably the support is formed from a relatively rigid material such as polyurethane or glass fibre reinforced plastic materials and generally takes the shape of the body part around which the garment is designed to fit. The support preferably forms an inner shell onto which the artificial tissue layer can be added. Any suitable material may be used in the construction of the support, with materials that can be rotationally moulded being particularly preferred. Rotational moulding offers a hollow form suitable for housing any electronic components of the invention.
The artificial tissue layer is suitably designed to mimic the human skin, subcutaneous skeletal and muscular structure, such that the support and the artificial layer together mimic a human wearer of a garment in a realistic manner. Preferably, the combination of artificial tissue layer and support is chosen such that the pressure exerted on the artificial tissue layer in comparison with that tested on a live model will have a correlation coefficient of approximately +0.7, more preferably +0.8, with +0.9 or above particularly preferred. The correlation coefficient is a number between −1 and +1. If the correlation is +1, the variables always increase or decrease exactly together, if −1, one variable increases when the other decreases; if 0, the two variables vary independently. The partial correlation indicates that each variable “causes” some of the variation in the other which is, in theory, the square of the coefficient. Thus, a correlation of +0.9 indicates that 81% of the variation in one variable is shared by the other.
Any suitable material may be used form forming the artificial tissue layer and or other components of the model human body, to provide an artificial tissue layer and support combination which allows a realistic assessment of the pressure exerted on the human skin by a garment.
We prefer that the artificial tissue layer is silicone rubber with, optionally, a suitable proportion of silicone oil added to the mix to soften it, in order to render the layer more lifelike. Where silicone oil is added, the addition proportion is preferably up to 50% by weight of the artificial tissue layer, with a figure of 30% by weight being most preferred. It is further preferred to bond the silicone rubber to the support, which helps prevent sagging of the artificial tissue layer. The bond made be made by any suitable means, such as an adhesive or staple, for example. Other suitable bonding means will be readily apparent to the person skilled in the art.
The artificial tissue layer is generally of a thickness that corresponds to the relevant human body part, suitably between 4 mm and 40 mm. However, certain areas of the body may require a layer of a different thickness to be used to allow realistic pressure assessment. A tissue layer of approximately 1 mm-6 mm thickness is preferred for the breasts, for example, in particular 2-4 mm thickness, with 2, 3 or 4 mm most preferred.
Realistic modelling of the breasts is particularly important in the specific case of bra design. Preferably, the breasts have an outer thin artificial tissue layer of polyurethane film or silicone rubber, and contents of silicone gel. This construction mimics that of prosthetic breasts, the difference being that the breasts are moulded to a specific shape rather than a generic one. Silicone gel is a standard component of prosthetic breasts, and is readily available, with WACKER™ silgel 612 being preferred. Commercially available silicone gels are commonly supplied with separate polymer and crosslinking components. The polymer is preferably a vinyl terminated silicone polymer, and crosslinking suitably achieved by using a hydrogen functional crosslinker and platinum catalyst. The profile and the stiffness of the artificial breast can be varied by changing the ratio of such a polymer and cross linker used in the breast construction, to provide a suitable model for clothing to be fitted. The ratio of polymer and cross linker may be readily varied by the skilled person to obtain a lifelike device. Additionally, silicone oil may be added to the polymer/cross linker mix if required.
Breast modelling may be generally carried out by casting the artificial tissue layer, such as the silicone rubber, around the support and one or two attached formers having approximately the same shape of the breasts. During the process, the material forming the tissue layer is cast into a mould which surrounds the support. The mould is treated so that there is no adhesion with the artificial tissue layer, whilst the support is preferably treated with a primer, to allow the artificial tissue layer to bond to the support.
The breast formers are suitably made of a material such as wax which melts at a temperature higher than ambient temperature, but below that at which the structure of the support or artificial tissue layer are altered. Moulding is thus by the well-known lost wax process: heating of the breast model allows the wax, for example, to melt and be removed without affecting the artificial tissue layer or support. The wax may then be replaced by another material, preferably silicone gel or silicone gel with silicone oil, which gives a suitably realistic breast and breast movement.
Any suitable pressure sensing means may be used. For example, the pressure sensor may comprise a hollow cell, containing air, the air space in the cell being connected by a tube to a pump which supplies air to the cell. Pressure exerted by the garment on the air within the cell and tube may be detected, to give an indication of pressure exerted upon the artificial tissue layer. Alternatively, pressure may be measured by cells containing a liquid, or by an electrical detector, such as a piezo-electric device or a capacitance device. Other suitable pressure detecting means will be well known to the skilled person. The pressure sensing device is preferably a substantially flat sensor, which gives little or no distortion of the interface between the garment and the artificial tissue layer.
Pressure sensors are suitably located on the artificial tissue layer, between the surface of the layer and the garment to be tested. Alternatively, the sensors may be located under the artificial tissue layer, if this allows a suitable assessment of pressure to be made.
Preferably the pressure sensors are not in fixed positions on the support or artificial tissue, but are capable of being moved such that they are fully covered by a garment that is being tested. In this way, the sensors measure accurately the pressure exerted upon the artificial tissue layer. Fixed sensors may not be fully covered by a garment and may give inaccurate readings. Moreover, a greater number are required in order to ensure that sufficient numbers of sensors are producing data.
Accordingly, in a preferred aspect, the invention relates to an artificial torso which replicates the human fo
Finnegan Henderson Farabow Garrett & Dunner L.L.P.
Lindsey Rodney M.
Marks and Spencer p.l.c.
Smith James G
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