Detergent cosmetic compositions and uses thereof

Details Detergent cosmetic compositions and uses thereof Detergent cosmetic compositions and uses thereof

2000-02-03

2003-02-04

Page, Thurman K. (Department: 1615)

Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions

Live hair or scalp treating compositions

C424S070110, C424S070130, C424S070150, C424S070170, C424S070210, C424S070220, C424S070270, C424S070310

Reexamination Certificate

active

06514488

ABSTRACT:

The present invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions with improved properties, intended simultaneously for cleansing, conditioning and styling keratin substances such as the hair, and comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable support, a washing base consisting of surfactants with detergent power, in which are also present cationic polymers in combination with a water-soluble anionic polyurea or a polyurethane. The invention also relates to the use of the compositions in the abovementioned cosmetic application.
It is common practice to use detergent hair compositions (or shampoos) based essentially on conventional surfactants of anionic, nonionic and/or amphoteric type in particular, more particularly of anionic type, for cleansing and/or washing the hair. These compositions are applied to wet hair and the lather generated by massaging or friction with the hands allows, after rinsing with water, the removal of the various types of soiling initially present on the hair.
Admittedly, these base compositions have good washing power, but the intrinsic cosmetic properties associated therewith are, nevertheless, fairly poor. In particular, the relatively aggressive nature of such a cleansing treatment can lead in the long run to more or less pronounced damage to hair fibers, associated in particular with the gradual removal of the lipids or proteins contained in or at the surface of these fibers.
Thus, to improve the cosmetic properties of the above detergent compositions, and more particularly of those which are intended to be applied to sensitized hair (i.e., hair which has been damaged or embrittled, in particular under the chemical action of atmospheric agents and/or of hair treatments such as permanent-waving, dyeing or bleaching operations), it is now common practice to introduce into these compositions additional cosmetic agents known as conditioners which are intended mainly to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by the various treatments or aggressions to which hair fibers are subjected more or less repeatedly. Needless to say, these conditioners can also improve the cosmetic behaviour of natural hair.
The conditioners most commonly used to date in shampoos are cationic polymers, which give washed, dry or wet hair an ease of disentangling, a softness and a smoothness that are markedly improved when compared with that which might be obtained with the corresponding cleansing compositions which are free of these polymers.
Moreover, it has been sought for some time to obtain conditioning shampoos which are capable of giving washed hair not only the cosmetic properties mentioned above but also, to a more or less pronounced extent, the properties of styling, volume, shaping and hold. These washing shampoos with improved general cosmetic properties are often referred to for simplicity as “styling shampoos”, and this expression will be adopted in the description hereinbelow.
However, despite the progress achieved recently in the area of styling shampoos based on cationic polymers, these shampoos are not really entirely satisfactory, such that a strong need still exists currently with regards having available novel products which have better performance characteristics as regards one or more of the cosmetic properties mentioned above. The present invention is directed towards satisfying such a need.
Thus, after considerable research conducted in this matter, it has now been found entirely surprisingly and unexpectedly, that by introducing an anionic polycondensate comprising at least one polyurethane and/or polyurea sequence as defined below, into detergent compositions, in particular hair compositions, containing cationic polymers, it is possible to substantially and significantly improve the cosmetic properties associated with these compositions, while at the same time retaining their good intrinsic washing power.
In the description and claims, the term “polyurethane” will be used as being equivalent to a polycondensate comprising at least one polyurethane and/or polyurea sequence.
Without wishing to limit the present invention to any theory, there would appear to be, during rinsing, specific interactions and/or affinities between the cationic polymers and anionic polyurethanes, in accordance with the invention, and the hair, which promote regular, appreciable and long-lasting deposition of the polyurethanes and cationic polymers onto the surface of the hair. This qualitative and quantitative deposition probably being one of the causes of the improvements observed as regards the final properties, in particular the ease of styling, the hold, the liveliness and volume of the treated hair. In any case, the cosmetic properties associated with the washing bases containing the combination of agents (cationic polymer/polyurethane) in accordance with the invention are markedly superior to those which can be obtained using only one of these agents at an equivalent overall concentration. All of these discoveries form the basis of the present invention.
Thus, according to the present invention, novel detergent compositions, in particular hair compositions, are now proposed, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a washing base, at least one cationic polymer and at least one anionic polycondensate comprising at least one water-soluble polyurethane and/or polyurea sequence.
A subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of the above compositions for cleansing, conditioning and styling keratin substances, in particular the hair.
However, other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description which follows, as well as the concrete, but in no way limiting, examples intended to illustrate it.
As mentioned above, the constituents forming part of the composition of the hair products of the invention are (i) at least one surfactant with detergent power intended to form the washing base, (ii) at least one cationic polymer and (iii) at least one water-soluble anionic polyurethane.
A-WASHING BASE
The compositions in accordance with the invention necessarily comprise a washing base, which is generally aqueous.
The surfactant(s) forming the washing base can either be chosen, alone or as mixtures, from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, zwitterionic and cationic surfactants. However, according to the invention, the washing base preferably comprises anionic surfactants or mixtures of anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants or nonionic surfactants.
The minimum amount of washing base needed is that amount which is just sufficient to give the final composition a satisfactory foaming and/or detergent power, and excessive amounts of washing base do not really afford any additional advantages. Thus, according to the invention, the washing base is present in an amount ranging from 4% to 50% by weight, preferably from 6% to 25% by weight, and even more preferably from 8% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final composition.
The surfactants which are suitable for carrying out the present invention are, in particular, the following:
(i) Anionic Surfactant(s)
As examples of anionic surfactants which can be used, alone or as mixtures, in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular (non-limiting list) of salts (in particular alkaline salts, especially sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamidoether sulphates, alkylarylpolyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; alkyl sulphonates, alkyl phosphates, alkylamide sulphonates, alkylaryl sulphonates, a-olefin sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates; (C
6
-C
24
)alkyl sulphosuccinates, (C
6
-C
24
)alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, (C
6
-C
24
)alkylamide sulphosuccinates; (C
6
-C
24
)alkyl sulphoacetates; (C
6
-C
24
)acyl sarcosinates and (C
6
-C
24
)-acyl glutamates. It is also possible to use (C
6
-C
24
)-alkyl polyglycoside carboxylic esters such as alkylglucoside citrates, alkylpolyglycoside tartrates and alky

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