Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions – Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant containing
Reexamination Certificate
2000-02-15
2001-09-18
Page, Thurman K. (Department: 1615)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Live hair or scalp treating compositions
Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant containing
C424S070100, C424S070110, C424S070130, C424S070190, C424S070220, C424S070270, C424S070310
Reexamination Certificate
active
06290944
ABSTRACT:
The present invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one anionic surfactant chosen from hydroxyalkyl ether carboxylic acid and salts thereof, and at least one cationic galactomannan gum.
It is common practice to use detergent compositions (shampoos or shower gels) based essentially on standard surfactants of anionic, nonionic and/or amphoteric type in particular, but most particularly of anionic type, to clean and/or wash the hair and/or the skin. These compositions are applied to wet hair or skin and the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands removes, after rinsing with water, the various types of soiling initially present on the hair or the skin.
Admittedly, these base compositions have good washing power, but the intrinsic cosmetic properties associated with them nevertheless remain fairly poor, in particular on account of the fact that the relatively aggressive nature of such a cleaning treatment can, in the long run, lead to more or less pronounced damage to the keratin substances. This damage can be associated in particular with the gradual removal of the lipids or proteins contained in or on the surface of these substances.
Thus, in order to improve the cosmetic properties of the above detergent compositions, and more particularly of those which are intended to be applied to sensitized hair (i.e. hair which has been damaged or made brittle, in particular under the chemical action of atmospheric agents and/or hair treatments such as permanent-waving, dyeing or bleaching), it is now common practice to introduce additional cosmetic agents known as conditioners into these compositions, these conditioners being intended mainly to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by the various treatments or aggressions to which the hair fibres are subjected more or less repeatedly. Needless to say, these conditioners may also improve the cosmetic behaviour of natural hair.
The conditioners most commonly used to date in shampoos are cationic polymers, silicones and/or silicone derivatives, which give washed, dry or wet hair an ease of disentangling, softness and smoothness which are markedly better than that which can be obtained with corresponding cleaning compositions from which they are absent.
However, despite the progress recently made in the field of shampoos based on cationic and/or silicone polymers, these shampoos are not really entirely satisfactory, such that there is currently still a strong need to be able to provide novel products which have improved performance qualities as regards one or more of the cosmetic properties mentioned above.
Anionic surfactants of hydroxyalkyl ether carboxylic acid type have already been recommended in detergent cosmetic compositions. They have been described, for example, in patent applications J63280798, J08268487 and J08269482, all of which are incorporated herein by reference.
Compositions for washing the hair using these surfactants alone do not give satisfactory cosmetic properties.
One aim of the invention is thus to propose detergent cosmetic compositions which have improved cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of disentangling, smoothness and softness of the hair. It has not been found that these aims can be achieved by combining specific cationic polymers and an anionic surfactant of hydroxyalkyl ether carboxylic acid type.
These novel compositions allow better application of these cationic polymers onto keratin substances (in particular the hair) than a composition containing standard anionic surfactants such as alkyl ether carboxylate salts, but without having a greasy look or feel.
The compositions in accordance with the invention give keratin substances, in particular the hair, a noteworthy treating effect which is manifested in particular by an ease of disentangling, as well as providing volume, lightness, smoothness, softness, suppleness and hold without any lank feel.
One subject of the invention is thus a detergent cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one cationic galactomannan gum and at least one anionic surfactant chosen from 2-hydroxyalkyl ether carboxylic acid and salts thereof.
Another subject of the invention relates to a process for treating keratin substances, such as the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying cosmetic compositions according to the invention to the said substances.
Another subject of the invention is the use of at least one anionic surfactant chosen from 2-hydroxyalkyl ether carboxylic acid and salts thereof in or for the manufacture of detergent cosmetic compositions comprising at least one cationic galactomannan gum.
According to the present invention, the expressions “keratin substances” means the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the skin, the nails, mucous membranes or the scalp, and more particularly the hair.
The various subjects of the invention will now be discussed in detail. All of the meanings and definitions of the compounds used in the present invention given below are valid for all of the subjects of the invention.
The anionic surfactants chosen from 2-hydroxyalkyl ether carboxylic acid and salts thereof, can have the following structure:
wherein
R
1
denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; and
X denotes hydrogen or an inorganic or organic cation such as: those derived from an alkali metal (for example Na
+
or K
+
), NH
4
+
, the ammoniums derived from basic amino acids, such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine or citrulline, or from amino alcohols such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, glucamine, N-methyl glucamine or 3-amino-1, 2-propanediol.
2-Hydroxyalkyl ether carboxylic acids or salts thereof that are preferred according to the present invention are compounds of formula (I) in which R
1
more particularly denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Even more preferably, R
1
denotes a C
8
-C
18
radical or a mixture of C
8
-C
18
radicals derived from coconut oil.
Among the surfactants of formula (I), mention may be made of the product sold under the name Beaulight Shaa by the company Sanyo.
According to the invention, the anionic surfactant chosen from 2-hydroxyalkyl ether carboxylic acid and salts thereof can represent from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final composition.
The compositions in accordance with the invention also necessarily comprise a cationic galactomannan gum. In one embodiment, the galactomannan gum is a cationic guar gum.
The cationic galactomannan gums preferably have a cationic charge density of less than or equal to 1.5 meq/g and more particularly between 0.1 and 1 meq/g.
In general, for the purposes of the present invention, the expression “cationic galactomannan gum” means any galactomannan gum containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups.
The preferred cationic groups are chosen from those comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups.
The cationic galactomannan gums used generally have a weight-average molecular mass of between approximately 500 and approximately 5×10
6
, and preferably between approximately 10
3
and approximately 3×10
6
.
The cationic galactomannan gums which can be used according to the present invention are, for example, gums comprising at least one cationic tri(C
1
-C
4
)alkylammonium group. Preferably, 2 to 30%, in numerical terms, of the hydroxyl functions in these gums bear at least one cationic trialkylammonium group. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may be made most particularly of trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferably, these groups represent from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified galactomannan gum.
In one embodiment according to the invention, a guar gum compris
Cauwet-Martin Daniele
Garnier Nathalie
Restle Serge
Finnegan Henderson Farabow Garrett & Dunner LLP
L'Oreal (S.A.)
McQueeney P. E.
Page Thurman K.
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