Textiles: ironing or smoothing – Smoothing machines – Platen presser
Patent
1994-07-05
1996-10-22
Izaguirre, Ismael
Textiles: ironing or smoothing
Smoothing machines
Platen presser
73159, D06F 7136, B65H 4512
Patent
active
055664806
DESCRIPTION:
BRIEF SUMMARY
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
This invention relates to the setting of creases in fabrics whereby the crease setting performance of a fabric may be reliably tested arc thereby standardised.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Fabrics vary from each other in the sharpness of a crease which may be obtained in steam pressing operations performed on a garment made from the fabric. For example a high quality pure wool structured garment is pressed as one of the final processes in garment manufacturing. The aim of pressing is to give a smooth crisp appearance to the panels and seams of the garment. If during the pressing the seam can not be made flat and sharp, but tends to billow, then it is said to be "blown", seam blowing can make a high quality tool garment unacceptable for sale and is occurring with increasing frequency in light-weight fabrics.
The ability of a seam to press flat is not directly related to other fabric properties but can be modified during finishing. It is important therefore robe able to predict the performance in seam pressing of a fabric prior to cutting so that remedial measures can be taken where required.
If a sample of fabric is conditioned, folded and pressed, and allowed to recover, the angle of the crease can be measured and used to predict whether seam blowing will occur. When this value is related to other fabric properties such as weight and formability, it can be used to predict the overall appearance of the pressed seam.
In devising an appropriate test for predicting the crease setting performance of a fabric, it is necessary to bear in mind that fabric manufacturers will normally not have steam pressing apparatus available to them which is suitable as a test apparatus. Any apparatus that fabric manufacturers may have available, even if usable in a crease setting performance test, is liable to be subject to numerous unpredictable sources of error which would limit the value of the data obtained as a reliable predictor of a fabric's crease setting performance.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
There is disclosed herein a method of forming a crease in a fabric for measurement of the fabric's crease setting performance comprising: predetermined period, under conditions which ensure that the water content of the fabric remains substantially constant; and
There is further disclosed herein a fabric crease setting cell comprising: sealed chamber to receive a folded fabric sample, so that a sample located therein is sealingly enclosed within the chamber; and said sample under pressure to crease the sample.
Preferably the crease in the fabric is maintained by an airtight enclosure which ensures maintenance of the predetermined water content. The temperature to which the fabric may be heated is preferably the temperature of boiling water under ambient conditions.
The sample of fabric may be conditioned by placing it in a room or enclosure under controlled conditions of humidity and/or temperature and/or pressure. Alternatively air of a predetermined humidity level may be blown or sucked through the fabric to achieve conditioning,
Conditioning a sample of fabric can include providing a mesh upon which the fabric may be placed. Conditioned all passing through the mesh then conditions the sample.
The means for passing conditioned air through a fabric when it is positioned on the mesh may operate via a vacuum or a pressurised process.
The preferred form of the invention is particularly applicable to woven fabrics containing wool, but is not limited to such fabrics. By virtue of the preferred form of the invention, acceptably reproducible test results as to the "crease pressing performance" of fabrics are obtainable.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
The invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying drawings in which:
FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view of a crease setting cell;
FIG. 2 shows a press for use with the cell of FIG. 1;
FIGS. 3a and 3b show a clamp for maintaining the cell of FIG. 1 sealed;
FIG. 4 shows a cell with clamps according to FIG. 3 attached
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Buckenham Peter
Ly Nhan G.
Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation
Izaguirre Ismael
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