Cosmetics

Details Cosmetics Cosmetics

2001-06-06

2002-12-24

Dodson, Shelley A. (Department: 1616)

Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions

Preparations characterized by special physical form

Cosmetic, antiperspirant, dentifrice

C424S059000, C424S060000, C424S400000

Reexamination Certificate

active

06497889

ABSTRACT:

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to cosmetics having the activities to inhibit the skin aging and to improve the skin, in addition to the moisturizing function.
So far, aging-preventing materials have been widely employed in cosmetics for the purpose of obtaining cosmetic effects such as prevention of the skin aging and the skin deterioration which cause skin troubles such as wrinkles, sags and dry skin.
The aging-preventing materials employed in cosmetics are broadly classified into peroxide lipid inhibitors and cell activators.
Examples of the materials having the activity to inhibit peroxide lipid are &agr;-hydroxy acid, vitamin A, &bgr;-carotene, vitamin B
12
, vitamin E, pigments such as dimethylaminostyryl heptyl methyl thiazolium iodide and platonin, scutellaria root, rutin, sesame extract and tea extract. As the cell activators, Quaternium-45, glycolic acid, &ggr;-amino acid, sialic acid, royal jelly, extract of
Swertia japonica
(Schult.) Makino, Japanese chirata, ginseng extract, etc. are known.
Known cell activators also include materials which promote collagen synthesis and materials having the activity to improve the skin.
Examples of the materials which promote collagen synthesis include ascorbic acid, various growth factors such as transforming growth factor &bgr;1, platelet-derived growth factor, fibroblast growth factor and insulin-like growth factor 1, and silk protein.
Examples of the materials having the activity to improve the skin include allantoin, aloe extract, ginseng extract, placenta extract, bovine blood freed of protein, and fermentation metabolites.
There is a report that hydroxyproline derivatives can be used as components of cosmetics to keep the skin elasticity by their activity to increase the oxygen consumption of disrupted mouse liver (Japanese Published Unexamined Patent Application No. 131107/89). However, the report contains neither description of the relationship between the increase in oxygen consumption of disrupted mouse liver and the effect on the human skin nor data concerning the effectiveness of compounds as components of cosmetics. Accordingly, it is not possible to conclude from the report that the hydroxyproline derivatives are effective as components of cosmetics. There has been no report that a significant improving effect on the skin can be obtained by using hydroxyproline or a derivative thereof in combination with a water-soluble vitamin, an oil-soluble vitamin, a high molecular peptide, a high molecular polysaccharide, a sphingolipid or a seaweed extract.
There are reports on cosmetics comprising mucin (Japanese Published Unexamined Patent Application No. 339140/93) or glycine betaine and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid or its salt (Japanese Published Unexamined Patent Application No. 87126/97) in combination with amino acids aimed at enhancing the moisturizing effect. There is also a report on a cosmetic comprising one or more components selected from the group consisting of glycyrrhetinic acid, a derivative thereof, glycyrrhizic acid and a salt thereof in combination with proline, etc. aimed at improving rough skin (Japanese Published Unexamined Patent Application No. 139951/99). In the reports, hydroxyproline is mentioned as one of the examples of amino acids and proline derivatives, but no data is given concerning the effect of a cosmetic comprising hydroxyproline in combination with a water-soluble vitamin, an oil-soluble vitamin, a high molecular peptide, a high molecular polysaccharide, a sphingolipid or a seaweed extract.
An object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic having the activities to inhibit the skin aging and to improve the skin, in addition to the moisturizing function.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to cosmetics comprising (1) hydroxyproline, an N-acylated hydroxyproline derivative or a salt thereof and (2) at least one component selected from the group consisting of water-soluble vitamins, oil-soluble vitamins, high molecular peptides, high molecular polysaccharides, sphingolipids and seaweed extracts.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Hydroxyproline widely occurs in nature as a major amino acid component of collagen and as an amino acid component of elastin. It is known that there exist eight kinds of stereoisomers of natural hydroxyproline, which are distinct in the following points: proline is the D-form or the L-form, the hydroxyl group is at the 3-position or the 4-position, and the stereoisomer is the cis-form or the trans-form.
Usually, trans-4-hydroxy-L-proline is common, but the presence of the other stereoisomers are extremely limited in nature.
Hydroxyproline can be obtained by subjecting collagen derived from animals such as pig and cow to acid hydrolysis and then purifying the hydrolysis product according to a conventional method. In obtaining hydroxyproline from such natural materials, it is necessary to be very careful about contamination with animal-derived viruses, prion, which is a causative protein of bovine spongiform encephalopathy, etc.
In the present invention, any hydroxyproline obtained by the above method can be used. However, hydroxyproline produced using microorganisms, which does not contain contaminants such as animal-derived viruses and prion, is preferably used.
Useful microorganisms include microorganisms carrying a proline 3-hydroxylase gene or a proline 4-hydroxylase gene derived from a microorganism belonging to a genus selected from the group consisting of the genera Amycolatopsis, Dactylosporangium and Streptomyces. Introduction of a proline 3-hydroxylase gene or a proline 4-hydroxylase gene derived from a microorganism belonging to a genus selected from the group consisting of the genera Amycolatopsis, Dactylosporangium and Streptomyces into a microorganism can be carried out according to the methods described in Molecular Cloning, A Laboratory Manual, Second Edition, Cold Spring Harbor Laboratory Press (1989), Current Protocols in Molecular Biology, John Wiley & Sons (1987-1997), etc.
Further, trans-4-hydroxy-L-proline can be produced using proline 4-hydroxylase isolated from a microorganism of the genus Amycolatopsis or Dactylosporangium (Japanese Published Unexamined Patent Application No. 313179/95), and cis-3-hydroxy-L-proline can be produced using proline 3-hydroxylase isolated from a microorganism of the genus Streptomyces (Japanese Published Unexamined Patent Application No. 322885/95) [Bioindustry, 14, 31 (1997)].
The acyl moiety of the N-acylated hydroxyproline derivatives used in the present invention includes straight-chain or branched acyl groups having 2-23 carbon atoms, for example, acetyl, propionyl, butyryl, isobutyryl, valeryl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, decanoyl, eicosanoyl and lauroyl. Preferred are acetyl and propionyl.
The N-acylated hydroxyproline derivatives can be produced according to a known method.
That is, the N-acylated hydroxyproline derivatives can be prepared by N-acylating hydroxyproline in an aqueous medium or an organic solvent by the use of an active derivative (acid anhydride, acid chloride, etc.) of a fatty acid having an alkyl group having preferably 1-22 carbon atoms.
The obtained N-acylated hydroxyproline derivatives can be purified by conventional methods of purification such as crystallization and chromatography.
Examples of the salts of hydroxyproline or N-acylated hydroxyproline derivatives include alkali metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt and calcium salt, ammonium salts such as ammonium salt and tetramethylammonium salt, and organic amine addition salts such as salts with morpholine and piperidine.
In the cosmetics of the present invention, hydroxyproline such as cis/trans-4-hydroxy-L/D-proline or cis/trans-3-hydroxy-L/D-proline, the N-acylated hydroxyproline derivatives or the salts thereof can be used alone or as a mixture.
The content of hydroxyproline, the N-acylated hydroxyproline derivatives or the salts thereof in the cosmetics may vary in a wide range according to t

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