Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Preparations characterized by special physical form – Cosmetic – antiperspirant – dentifrice
Reexamination Certificate
2000-02-08
2001-07-17
Dodson, Shelley A. (Department: 1616)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Preparations characterized by special physical form
Cosmetic, antiperspirant, dentifrice
C424S059000, C424S064000, C424S065000, C424S070100, C424S400000, C424S484000, C424SDIG005, C514S944000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06261579
ABSTRACT:
The present invention relates to the use, as cosmetic products, of rigid gels which may be obtained by extrusion, as well as to the cosmetic and dermatological compositions used.
Various forms of products in solid form are known in the cosmetics industry, in particular in the field of make-up, for instance lipsticks, foundation sticks or eyeshadow sticks; in the field of skincare or lipcare, such as lip-repairing pencils and depigmenting, make-up-removing or moisturizing sticks; in the field of hygiene, for instance deodorant sticks and foaming cakes or sticks for shaving or for washing the skin.
The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, novel compositions for cosmetic or dermatological use in the form of a rigid gel which may be obtained by an extrusion process.
Throughout the description, the expression rigid gel will be understood to refer to any gel having a compression strength of greater than or equal to 50 grams, at room temperature, after penetration by a cylindrical probe having a diameter of 0.8 cm into the gel matrix in a thickness of 5 mm, at a speed of 1 mm/s, maintenance of the said probe in the gel matrix for 15 seconds and removal of the said probe from the gel matrix at a speed of 1 mm/s, the compression strength being measured with a texture analyser of the type TAXT2 marketed by the company Rheo.
The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of a stick, a pencil or a cake and may in themselves constitute novel types of make-up products such as lipsticks, foundations, eyeshadows; novel types of care and/or conditioning products for the hair such an hard styling gels; novel types of products in stick form for facial or body care or hygiene.
The compositions according to the invention may be aqueous and have a matrix consisting of an aqueous gelled network. They may also be in anhydrous form with a matrix consisting of a dehydrated gelled network.
The aqueous compositions according to the invention may be partially rehydratable at the surface in contact with water at the time of use, thereby allowing good release of the cosmetically active products onto the keratin substance to be treated, and, after drying, rapidly resuming their initial solid form without any adverse change occurring. They may thus be reused subsequently by simple partial hydration at the surface. In the resting state, they are stable on storage and do not feel sticky.
The aqueous compositions of the invention may in particular constitute compositions in the form of make-up sticks which, unexpectedly, impart the colour effect, the sensation of freshness and the slippery feel directly to the skin without it being necessary to incorporate large amounts of fatty substances. In addition, they produce no greasy effect or sticky feel when they are applied, or any phenomenon of migration into the wrinkles on the face or at the edge of the eyelids, in contrast with conventional make-up sticks containing large concentrations of fatty substances (oils or waxes) for the purpose of obtaining the colour effect and the slippery feel. They may, moreover, contain water-soluble cosmetic or dermatological active agents which cannot be incorporated into common, generally anhydrous make-up sticks.
The compositions according to the invention may contain enough inorganic fillers and/or organic fillers to give satisfactory breakdown and qualities of softness.
The production of sticks whose matrix consists of an aqueous gelled network, of sufficiently high rigidity, requires the presence of at least one water-soluble gelling agent in high concentrations, generally greater than 20% by weight. Hitherto, it was not possible to manufacture such solid aqueous gels by the conventional techniques such as manufacture by casting.
The Applicant has discovered, unexpectedly, that homogeneous, stable, rigid sticks, whose gelled matrix may contain more than 20% by weight of water-soluble gelling agent and large amounts of fillers, can be produced according to an extrusion process which will be defined later.
The compositions according to the invention, in particular the anhydrous compositions having a matrix consisting of a dehydrated gelled network, make it possible to produce make-up powders which may contain, in large amounts, waxes which impart good film strength, slippery feel and matt-effect properties. This fact is all the more surprising since conventional compacted make-up powders generally cannot contain large amounts of fatty substances such as waxes (more than 10% by weight). Their incorporation into powders leads to products which wax and which cannot be broken down.
The compositions can also contain silicone gums which are generally difficult to incorporate homogeneously at the same time into the anhydrous phases and into the aqueous phases.
The compositions according to the invention, in particular the anhydrous compositions having a matrix consisting of a dehydrated gelled network, may furthermore contain large amounts of fillers which are not readily compacted, thereby imparting a very soft and non-greasy feel. The expression filler which is not readily compacted is understood to mean a starting material which, at and above a certain percentage which will depend on the material in question, cannot be compacted by means of a mechanical press. These types of filler cannot be used in large concentrations in make-up products in compacted powder form. Furthermore, make-up products containing them, even in small amounts, do not exhibit good integrity on storage, good impact strength or a suitably flat surface.
The compositions of the invention, in particular the anhydrous compositions having a matrix consisting of a dehydrated gelled network, may be used in the form of a compact powdery stick, for instance a conventional make-up powder, without presenting the drawbacks mentioned above. These anhydrous compositions may also be reduced to a powder and may be used conventionally as a make-up powder without presenting the drawbacks mentioned above.
The compositions according to the invention are rigid gels containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least 20% by weight of at least one water-soluble or hydrophillic gelling agent and at least one cosmetic or dermatological substance. These rigid gels may be obtained from the said gelling agent in the presence of water, by mixing, blending, compression and extrusion in a twin-screw extruder.
These rigid gels are either in aqueous form and have a matrix consisting of an aqueous gelled network or are in anhydrous form with a matrix consisting of a dehydrated gelled network, and may be obtained by dehydration of the gelled network by a conventional drying process.
The rigid gels according to the invention generally have a compression strength of greater than or equal to 50 grams, at room temperature, after penetration by a cylindrical probe having a diameter of 0.8 cm into the gel matrix in a thickness of 5 mm, at a speed of 1 mm/s, maintenance of the said probe in the gel matrix for 15 seconds and removal of the said probe from the gel matrix at a speed of 1 mm/s, the compression strength being measured with a texture analyser of the type TAXT2 marketed by the company Rheo.
For the rigid gels in accordance with the invention, a curve relative to the rigidity of the gel and to the deposition of the gel on the probe as a function of time is preferably observed, under conditions as defined above, this curve having a positive peak corresponding to the compression force of the gel after penetration of the probe but having no negative peak corresponding to a deposition of gel onto the probe after it is removed.
The compositions according to the invention contain one or more water-soluble or hydrophillic gelling agents.
The water-soluble or hydrophillic gelling agents present in the compositions of the invention are preferably chosen from the group formed by:
alga extracts such as agar-agar, carrageenans and alginates;
seed extracts such as carob gum and guar gum;
plant exudates such as gum arabic, karaya gum, gum tragacanth and ghatti gum;
microorganism e
Daubige Therese
Holz Katrin
Mellul Myriam
Roulier Veronique
Dodson Shelley A.
Finnegan Henderson Farabow Garrett & Dunner L.L.P.
L'Oreal
Lamm Marina
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