Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Preparations characterized by special physical form – Cosmetic – antiperspirant – dentifrice
Reexamination Certificate
2000-11-28
2002-10-29
Krass, Frederick (Department: 1614)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Preparations characterized by special physical form
Cosmetic, antiperspirant, dentifrice
C424S681000, C424S682000, C424S725000, C424S773000, C424S642000, C424S059000, C424S062000, C424S074000, C424S070100, C424S070900, C514S847000, C530S379000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06471972
ABSTRACT:
The present invention relates to a method of cosmetic treatment for combating the effects of skin ageing and to novel cosmetic compositions which are particularly suitable for carrying it out.
The dermo-epidermal junction (DEJ) is known to be a complex structure assuring the cohesion and exchanges between the dermis and epidermis which are essential for the skin to function properly.
It has been discovered that it is possible to slow down or treat skin ageing, and in particular to reduce the depth of wrinkles, and/or slow down their appearance, and/or restore the tonicity and elasticity of the skin, and/or slow down the decrease in tonicity and elasticity of the skin, by means of a method of cosmetic treatment corresponding to a novel concept which consists in using a cosmetically acceptable agent to promote the adhesion of the keratinocytes of the epidermal basal layer to the dermo-epidermal junction, especially to the type IV collagen, also called collagen IV, which is a major constituent of said dermo-epidermal junction. It is this discovery which constitutes the basis of the present invention.
Thus, according to its most general feature, the present patent application aims to cover a method of cosmetic treatment for slowing down or treating skin ageing, and in particular for reducing the depth of wrinkles, and/or slowing down their appearance, and/or restoring the tonicity and elasticity of the skin, and/or slowing down the decrease in tonicity and elasticity of the skin, characterized in that an amount of at least one agent for promoting the adhesion of the keratinocytes of the epidermal basal layer to the dermo-epidermal junction, especially to the collagen IV of said junction, is applied to the skin.
It has furthermore been shown that particularly remarkable results are obtained within the framework of the present invention if the above-mentioned adhesion promoter is applied in association with an effective amount of at least one stimulant of collagen IV synthesis and/or with an effective amount of at least one stimulant of collagen VII synthesis.
The expression “stimulant of collagen IV or collagen VII synthesis” is understood within the framework of the present description as meaning any agent which is capable of producing or maintaining a high level of collagen IV in the dermo-epidermal junction, either by increasing the biosynthesis or by inhibiting the enzymes which degrade the constituent proteins of this product.
In one advantageous embodiment of the invention, the above-mentioned adhesion promoter is a divalent metal salt or complex, particularly a magnesium or zinc salt or complex, or a mixture of divalent metal salts or complexes.
The divalent metal salt or complex is preferably a divalent metal chloride or a divalent metal salt or complex with a cosmetically acceptable organic acid such as an amino acid, for example aspartic acid, asparagine, proline, glutamic acid, methionine, leucine, histidine or lysine, or a C
2
-C
12
aliphatic alpha-hydroxy acid, particularly citric acid, glycolic acid, gluconic acid, malic acid, lactic acid or 2-hydroxybutyric acid.
In one currently preferred embodiment of the invention, said divalent metal salt or complex is magnesium aspartate or magnesium chloride.
According to one particular characteristic of the method of the present invention, the above-mentioned adhesion promoter is applied in the form of a composition in which it is present in an amount of between 0.0001 and 5% by weight, preferably of between 0.001 and 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Any stimulant of collagen IV synthesis can be used within the framework of the method according to the present invention.
In one currently preferred embodiment, the stimulant of collagen IV synthesis is selected from soya saponins and soya sapogenols, preferably of type A and type B, and plant extracts rich in such compounds, preferably extracts of soya (
Glycine max
) or alfalfa (
Medicago sativa
).
In another preferred embodiment, the stimulant of collagen IV synthesis is a whole range of saponins from roots of
Medicago sativa.
Likewise, any stimulant of collagen VII synthesis can be used within the framework of the present invention.
In one currently preferred embodiment, the stimulant of collagen VII synthesis is an extract of
Potentilla erecta.
In another preferred embodiment, the stimulant of collagen VII synthesis is an extract of Bertholletia, particularly
Bertholletia excelsa.
According to a second feature, the present patent application aims to cover novel cosmetic compositions which are particularly suitable for carrying out the method described above.
These compositions are essentially characterized in that they contain an effective amount of at least one agent for promoting the adhesion of the keratinocytes of the epidermal basal layer to the dermo-epidermal junction, especially to the collagen IV of said junction, said agent being selected from magnesium or zinc salts or complexes, in association with an effective amount of at least one stimulant of collagen IV synthesis and/or an effective amount of at least one stimulant of collagen VII synthesis.
In these compositions, the various adhesion promoters and stimulants of collagen IV synthesis or collagen VII synthesis are as described above within the framework of the general description of the method according to the invention.
The compositions of the invention may also advantageously comprise at least one substance for promoting the synthesis of the constituents of the extracellular matrix of the skin.
Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention can also contain at least one substance selected from the group consisting of vitamins, particularly the vitamins of group A (retinol) and group C and derivatives thereof such as the esters, especially the palmitates and propionates, tocopherols, xanthines, particularly caffeine or theophylline, retinoids, particularly vitamin A acid, extracts of
Centella asiatica
, asiatic and madecassic acids and glycosylated derivatives thereof such as asiaticoside or madecassoside, extracts of
Siegesbeckia orientalis
, extracts of
Commiphora mukul
and extracts of
Eriobotrya japonica
, cosmetically acceptable silicon derivatives such as polysiloxanes, silanols and silicones, C
3
-C
12
aliphatic alpha-keto acids, particularly pyruvic acid, C
2
-C
12
aliphatic alpha-hydroxy acids, particularly citric acid, glycolic acid, malic acid and lactic acid, amino acids, particularly arginine, citrulline and threonine, ceramides, glycoceramides, sphingosine derivatives, particularly type II and III ceramides, phospholipids, forskolin and derivatives thereof, extracts of Coleus, extracts of Tephrosia, elastase inhibitors, particularly ellagic acid and soya peptides, collagenase inhibitors, particularly plant peptides and extracts such as extracts of roots of Coptidis and extracts of roots of
Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi
, flavonoids such as wogonin, baicalin and baicalein, aqueous-ethanolic extracts of leaves of
Ginkgo biloba, Mosla chinensis, Salvia officinalis
and
Cinnamomum cassia
, catechuic extracts of
Camellia sinensis
and aqueous extracts of bean shells of
Theobroma cacao
, anti-inflammatories, particularly phospholipase A2 inhibitors, soothing agents, particularly extracts of liquorice, glycyrrhetinic acid and ammonium glycyrrhizinate, hydrating agents, particularly polyols, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol and hyaluronic acid, agents for combating stretch marks, particularly extracts of horse chestnut and escin, agents for protecting or improving the microcirculation, particularly bioflavonoids from
Ginkgo biloba
, isodon, extracts of
Ami visnaga
, visnadine and ruscogenin, free radical inhibitors, particularly polyphenols such as PCO (procyanidolic oligomers) and derivatives thereof and plant extracts, particularly extracts of
Curcuma longa
, antiseborrhea agents, such as a 5-alpha-reductase inhibitor, particularly an extract of
Pygeum africanum
, and stimulants of the microcirculation of the blood, such as cephar
Bonte Frederic
Dumas Marc
Heusele Catherine
Le Blay Jacques
Goldberg Joshua B.
Juneau Todd L.
Krass Frederick
LVMH Recherche
Ostrup Clinton
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