Cosmetic skin care compositions and containing gum mastic

Details Cosmetic skin care compositions and containing gum mastic Cosmetic skin care compositions and containing gum mastic

2001-06-01

2003-09-23

Dees, Jose′ G. (Department: 1616)

Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions

Topical body preparation containing solid synthetic organic...

Skin cosmetic coating

C424S401000, C424S078020, C514S844000, C514S847000, C514S938000

Reexamination Certificate

active

06623728

ABSTRACT:

FIELD OF THE INVENTION
Cosmetic skin care methods and compositions for conditioning human skin by topical application of cosmetic compositions containing gum mastic.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Sebum is skin oil which is produced by sebocytes (cells of the sebaceous glands in the skin) and is then secreted to the skin surface. A frequent, undesirable skin condition is “oily skin,” the condition which results from the excessive amount of sebum on the skin. Oily skin is associated with a shiny, undesirable appearance and a disagreeable tactile sensation and affects various age groups. Cosmetic products which can condition the skin to provide sebum control is therefore highly desirable.
In recent years, consumer demand for “natural” products has led to the use of plant extracts in various skin care compositions. The prior art discloses gum/resins and oils from plants for various uses. For example, WO 91/10196 assigned to Parfums Christian Dior (hereinafter “Dior '196”), discloses the use of forms of the resin guggul, an extract from a plant of the genus Commiphora, originating in India. Dior '196 discloses the use of guggul as a cosmetic agent for improving the appearance of the skin surface and in particular, for reducing the depth of wrinkles and making fine lines disappear.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,690,948 issued to McCook et al. (hereinafter “McCook '948”), discloses the use of ethyl acetate extracts of the gum/resin guggal, referred to as gugulipid. McCook '948 discloses the use of gugulipid and alcoholic fractions thereof in antisebum and antioxidant compositions.
Gum mastic, which may be obtained as a trunk exudate of the species
Pistacia lentiscus
L., an evergreen shrub of the Anacardiaceae family, has been produced since ancient times on the island of Chios, Greece. Components of gum mastic include &agr;-pinene, camphene, &bgr;-pinene, sabinene, myrcene, &dgr;-3-carene, limonene, eucalyptol, Yy-terpinene, p-cymene, terpinolene, terpinene-1-ol-4 and &agr;-terpineol. See
Fragrance Raw Materials Monographs,
Mastic Absolute. Certain terpenoids of gum mastic have also been identified and isolated. See “Triterpenoids From Gum Mastic, The Resin of Pistacia Lentiscus,”
Phytochemistry,
Vol. 30, No. 11, pp. 3709-3712, 1991.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,422,100 issued to Eliaz et al. (hereinafter “Eliaz '100”), discloses the use of gum mastic as a carrier for hair and skin conditioning methods and products. In particular, Eliaz '100 teaches topical application of a treatment agent to the skin for promoting hair growth, preventing, stopping or minimizing hair loss, conditioning the hair and scalp, thickening the hair, treating dandruff, smoothing skin, treating seborrheic dermatitis, treating psoriasis and like condition, and possibly including uses such as the healing of wounds in the skin. The gum mastic carrier provides a medium for the treatment agent with a capability for penetrating into the skin and/or hair follicles.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,637,290 issued to Sodis et al., discloses the use of natural mastic from chios, extract mastic oil, or synthetic mastic agents for production of toothpaste, mouthwash, mouth deodorizers, suntan lotions, hair products, and cosmetics.
Practically all penetration and absorption into the skin occurs via the hair follicles and the sebaceous glands.
Cosmetics Science and Technology,
pp. 46-47, vol. 1, Krieger Publishing Co., 1992. Therefore, an ideal cosmetically beneficial composition for delivery of an active to the skin delivers the active such that it adheres to skin or hair. It is well known in the art to use emulsions because of their ability to deliver both oil and water to the skin and hair. Conventionally, actives have been delivered in water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions, with oil-in-water emulsions being preferred because of the desirable aesthetic and elegant properties such as rich and creamy, yet non-greasy skin feel. Id. at 47.
The prior art discussed above does not disclose cosmetic mediums that provide enhanced delivery of plant extracts to the skin for a dual benefit of sebum suppression and anti-aging benefits. Therefore, a need remains for such cosmetic products containing cost-effective and readily available natural ingredients.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention includes an oil-in-water cosmetic skin care emulsion composition comprising:
(a) from about 0.001 wt. % to about 10 wt. % of solubilized gum mastic
(b) a volatile, water miscible solvent; and
(c) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Except in the operating and comparative examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use are to be understood as modified by the word “about.” All amounts are by weight of the oil-in-water emulsion, unless otherwise specified.
The term “skin” as used herein includes the skin on the face, neck, chest, back, arms, hands, legs, and scalp.
The term “gum mastic” as used herein means the resin from the species
Pistacia lentiscus
L., an evergreen shrub of the Anacardiaceae family, found on the island of Chios, Greece.
The term “solubilized” as used herein means that at least 90% of gum mastic present in the final composition is solubilized.
The term “water miscible” as used herein means that at least 95% of solvent present in the final composition is miscible in water.
According to the present invention, solubilized gum mastic controls sebum secretion and/or controls oily skin and prevents skin wrinkles and laxity.
All amounts are by weight of an oil-in-water emulsion, unless otherwise indicated.
Sebum is oil produced by sebocyte cells of the sebaceous glands. Inhibition of sebocyte lipogenesis reduces excretion of sebum, thereby reducing and/or controlling oily skin. Alternatively, enhancing collagen production aids in preventing skin wrinkles and laxity. It has been found as part of the present invention that solubilized gum mastic unexpectedly possesses sebum suppression activity through inhibition of sebocyte lipogenesis as well as providing anti-aging benefits through enhanced collagen production.
Gum mastic in crystal form may be obtained from Sigma Chemicals or Spectrum. Premixed solutions of gum mastic (e.g. Lentisque Absolute) may be obtained from Biolandes Parfums. Relative to extracts such as gugulipid, gum mastic is inexpensive and therefore cost-effective in use in cosmetic skin care compositions.
Gum mastic is oil soluble and is therefore dissolved in a suitable solvent in the inventive compositions. In the preferred embodiment, volatile water miscible solvents are used because such solvents evaporate after application to the skin. The gum mastic in the inventive compositions therefore remains in contact with the skin even after evaporation of the solvent until the gum mastic penetrates into the skin and hair follicles, providing both suppression of sebum and anti-aging benefits. In contrast, non-volatile, water immiscible solvents such as isopropyl myristate as disclosed in Eliaz '100, do not evaporate. Therefore, even after application onto the skin, the gum mastic would remain trapped in the solvent such that only a final diluted amount of gum mastic would penetrate the hair follicles.
Suitable volatile, water miscible solvents include ethanol, methanol, propanol, isopropyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. Ethanol is preferred due to commercial availability. To realize a cosmetic benefit, the ratio of gum mastic to solvent can vary from 1:75, preferably from 1:50, and most preferably from 2:1.
Solubilized gum mastic is present in the inventive compositions between 0.001 to 10% by weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01 to 1%, and most preferably from 0.01 to 0.05%.
Although other forms are contemplated to be within the scope of the invention, the inventive composition is preferably an oil-in-water emulsion because the continuous phase is aqueous, creating a less greasy feel on the skin. It is well known in the art that act

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