Cosmetic preparations

Details Cosmetic preparations Cosmetic preparations

1999-12-06

2001-12-25

Dudash, Diana (Department: 1619)

Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions

Preparations characterized by special physical form

Cosmetic, antiperspirant, dentifrice

C424S070210, C554S090000, C554S109000

Reexamination Certificate

active

06333040

ABSTRACT:

FIELD OF THE INVENTION
This invention relates to cosmetic preparations with refatting properties based on monoglyceride(ether)sulfates and fatty acid partial glycerides, to a process for their production by substoichiometric sulfation of partial glycerides and to the use of the mixtures for the production of cosmetic compositions with refatting properties.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Preparations which are used to clean and care for the human skin and hair generally contain one or more surface-active substances, more especially based on anionic or amphoteric surfactants. Since the sole use of surfactants would excessively dry out the skin and hair, it is standard practice to add refatting agents to preparations of the type in question. It is obvious that these substances are expected to have not only an adequate refatting effect, but also—in line with market requirements—optimal dermatological compatibility.
German patent DE-C2 4139935 (Kao) describes liquid water-based body washes which contain 5 to 35% by weight of anionic surfactants, 2.5 to 15% by weight of alkyl polyglucosides and 0.5 to 15% by weight of saturated fatty acid monoglycerides containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the fatty acyl group. Unfortunately, the monoglycerides proposed in this document do not have adequate dermatological compatibility, even in admixture with glucosides. In addition, in the absence of water, the mixtures are generally solid and, for this reason, cannot be cold-processed. European patent EP-B1 0554292 (Henkel) describes o/w emulsions containing oils, alkyl polyglucosides, fatty acid partial glycerides and optionally fatty alcohols. These mixtures are also not entirely satisfactory in their refatting effect, their dermatological compatibility and their consistency in the absence of water. Finally, European patent application EP-A1 0538762 (Kao) describes hair treatment compositions containing cationic surfactants, alkyl polyglucosides and oils including, for example, fatty acid monoglycerides.
Accordingly, the complex problem addressed by the present invention was to provide refatting agents free from ethylene oxide which—at one and the same time—would be liquid at room temperature, would have thickening properties and, in particular, would show particularly high dermatological compatibility.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to cosmetic preparations with refatting properties containing
(a) monoglyceride (ether)sulfates and
(b) fatty acid partial glycerides.
It has surprisingly been found that the mixtures according to the invention combine particularly high dermatological compatibility with optimal refatting properties. In addition, the preparations are liquid at room temperature so that they may also be cold-processed. Another advantage is that the mixtures build up a viscosity in surfactant-containing systems.
DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
Monoglyceride(ether)sulfates
Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates are known anionic surfactants which may be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. They are normally produced from triglycerides which—optionally after ethoxylation—are transesterified to the monoglycerides and then sulfated and neutralized. The partial glycerides may also be reacted with suitable sulfating agents, preferably gaseous sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid [cf. EP-B1 0561825, EP-B1 0561999 (Henkel)]. If desired, the neutralized products may be subjected to ultrafiltration In order to reduce their electrolyte content to a required level [DE-A1 4204700 (Henkel)]. Overviews on the chemistry of monoglyceride sulfates have been published, for example, by A. K. Biswas et al. in J. Am. Oil. Chem. Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and by F. U. Ahmed in J. Am. Oil. Chem. Soc. 67, 8 (1990). The monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for use in accordance with the presence invention correspond to formula (I):
in which R
1
CO is a linear or branched acyl group containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x1, y1 and z1 together stand for 0 or for numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride(ether)sulfates suitable for the purposes of the present invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut oil fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid mono-glyceride and ethylene oxide adducts thereof with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Monoglyceride sulfates corresponding to formula (I), in which R
1
CO is a linear acyl group containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, are preferably used.
Fatty Acid Partial Glycerides
The fatty acid partial glycerides forming component (b) are known substances which may be prepared by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry and which correspond to formula (II):
where R
2
CO is a linear or branched acyl group containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x2, y2 and z2 together stand for 0 or for numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, R
3
and R
4
independently of one another have the same meaning as R
2
CO or represent hydrogen, with the proviso that R
3
and R
4
cannot both be an acyl group. Fatty acid partial glycerides, i.e. generally technical mixtures of mono and diglycerides, are normally obtained by transesterifying the corresponding triglycerides with glycerol or by selective esterification of fatty acids. The removal of unreacted starting materials and the enrichment of monoglycerides in the mixtures are generally carried out by molecular distillation. The partial glycerides of the present invention are preferably obtained by esterification of glycerol with fatty acids containing 6 to 22 and preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as for example caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and technical mixtures thereof. The present invention includes the observation that technical mono-/diglyceride mixtures have even better dermatological compatibility than the pure monoglycerides. Accordingly, technical fatty acid mono-/diglycerides which have a molar ratio of monoester to diester of 10:90 to 90:10 and, more particularly, 80:20 to 50:50 are preferred.
Mixtures of coconut oil monoglyceride sulfates and coconut oil fatty acid monoglycerides show particularly favorable performance properties and are therefore preferred. Components (a) and (b) are generally used in a ratio by weight of 30:70 to 99:1, preferably 50:50 to 90:10 and more preferably 70:30 to 80:20.
Alkyl and/or Alkenyl Oligoglycosides
In one preferred embodiment of the invention, the preparations contain as further surface-active ingredients alkyl and/or alkenyl polyglycosides corresponding to formula (III):
R
5
O—[G]
p
  (III)
in which R
5
is an alkyl and/or alkenyl group containing 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar unit containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number of 1 to 10. They may be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry, for example by acid-catalyzed acetalization of glucose with fatty alcohols. The alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides may be derived from aldoses or ketoses containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose. Accordingly, the preferred alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides are alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index p in general formula (III) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), i.e. the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and is a number of 1 to 10. Whereas p in a given compound must always be an integer and, above all, may assume a value of 1 to 6, the value p for a certain alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined calculated quantity which is mostly a broken number. Alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides w

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