Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions – Plant extract of undetermined constitution
Patent
1997-10-06
1999-09-28
Venkat, Jyothsna
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Live hair or scalp treating compositions
Plant extract of undetermined constitution
424 43, 424 47, 424701, 424702, 424706, 424401, 514937, A61K 3578, A61K 748, A61K 706
Patent
active
059583959
DESCRIPTION:
BRIEF SUMMARY
The invention relates to a cosmetic preparation containing Ilex resin, which is isolated from leaves of Ilex aquifolium or Ilex paraguariensis, to a method for obtaining this Ilex resin, and to the Ilex resin obtained by this method.
A good appearance is today largely considered an indispensable component of the quality of life. The skin and hairstyle play a particular role here. For changing and designing the hairstyle, the most various preparations and aids are employed.
As a rule, beautiful hair is considered equivalent to healthy hair. The concept of beauty is defined by a number of factors, among which are quite essentially the concepts of "luster" and "depth of color".
Luster, also called gloss, sheen, or shine, is defined physically as the quotient of the oriented component and the diffusely reflected component of the stream of light striking a surface. Hence something's luster is correlated with its surface property, or more specifically its relative roughness. As the roughness increases, the proportion of diffusely reflected light also rises, making for less luster.
The term "depth of color" or "color saturation" is defined as the proportion of pure color to the white component. The white component (in additive color mixing) is composed of the three basic colors, "red", "blue" and "green". For a given color tone of a surface, the roughness of the surface is a decisive factor in its depth of color; the smoother a surface is, the lower the nonspecifically back-scattered white component of the light shone on it, and the more "saturated" the color appears. Wet (or polished) articles therefore generally have a more color-intensive effect than dry ones.
To achieve luster and depth of color, it is accordingly necessary to smooth the applicable surface. This can be achieved, among other ways, by applying a thin, transparent coating with the highest possible index of refraction, which compensates for fine irregularities of the surface.
For hair, this surface coating--applied using suitable recipes--can be made up of various classes of substances. To that end, in the past, above all mineral oils of various fractions, vaseline, various polymers, and recently to an increasing extent silicone oils have been used in hair treatment preparations. The disadvantage of these substances is their poor biodegradability, sometimes a greasy appearance of the hair, and occasional physiological compatability problems.
The object of the invention was therefore to make available a cosmetic preparation with which smoothing of the hair surface and an increase in luster and color depth of the hair can be attained, and which does not have the aforementioned disadvantages.
Along with luster and depth of color, the desired properties of the hair also include in particular elasticity, manageability, and the stability and volume of the hairstyle. The hair is affected mostly negatively in terms of its physical, chemical, and morphological properties by factors of various kinds. The hair is severely stressed and damaged, especially in the region of the ends, by such cosmetic treatments as repeated bleaching, permanent-waving and dyeing, but also by frequent washing with degreasing surfactants, by such climatic factors as humidity and temperature differences, or by the intensive action of sunlight, as well as by such mechanical treatment as brushing, combing, and towel-drying. The hair becomes brittle and loses its luster. The damaged hair becomes electrostatically charged when brushed and combed. The hair surface is roughened, leading to matting and tangling. This all makes the hair extraordinarily difficult to comb and detangle.
Hair conditioning and hair cleaning preparations that improve combability and condition the hair to improve its condition accordingly have considerable significance. In hair conditioning and cleaning preparations, to this end, cationic surfactants, cationic polymers or silicone compounds are employed. They bring about good combability, detangling, and good feel of the hair when wet, but although the criteria
REFERENCES:
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H.H. Van Genderen and J. Jaarsma, "Triterpenes and Alkanes in Developing Variegated and Albino Leaves of Ilex Aquifolium L. (Auifoliaceae)", Plant Science, 72, pp. 165-172 (1990).
H.H. Van Genderen, J. Jaarsma and C. Versluis, "Long Chain Pantyl-and Hexyl-Esters and Other Lipoids in Leaf Wax of Ilex Aquifolium L. (Aquifoliaceae)", Plant Science, 55, pp. 231-238 (1988).
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Baecker Sabine
Bormuth Hiltrud
Franzke Michael
Kischka Karl-Heinz
Kripp Thomas
Striker Michael J.
Venkat Jyothsna
Wella Aktiengesellschaft
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