Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions – Plant extract of undetermined constitution
Reexamination Certificate
1999-05-15
2001-04-03
Dudash, Diana (Department: 1619)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Live hair or scalp treating compositions
Plant extract of undetermined constitution
C424S047000, C424S043000, C424S070100, C424S070200, C424S070600, C424S401000, C424S195110, C514S937000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06210660
ABSTRACT:
The invention relates to a cosmetic preparation containing Ilex resin, which is isolated from leaves of Ilex aquifolium or Ilex paraguariensis, to a method for obtaining this Ilex resin, and to the Ilex resin obtained by this method.
A good appearance is today largely considered an indispensable component of the quality of life. The skin and hairstyle play a particular role here. For changing and designing the hairstyle, the most various preparations and aids are employed.
As a rule, beautiful hair is considered equivalent to healthy hair. The concept of beauty is defined by a number of factors, among which are quite essentially the concepts of “luster” and “depth of color”.
Luster, also called gloss, sheen, or shine, is defined physically as the quotient of the oriented component and the diffusely reflected component of the stream of light striking a surface. Hence something's luster is correlated with its surface property, or more specifically its relative roughness. As the roughness increases, the proportion of diffusely reflected light also rises, making for less luster.
The term “depth of color” or “color saturation” is defined as the proportion of pure color to the white component. The white component (in additive color mixing) is composed of the three basic colors, “red”, “blue” and “green”. For a given color tone of a surface, the roughness of the surface is a decisive factor in its depth of color; the smoother a surface is, the lower the nonspecifically back-scattered white component of the light shone on it, and the more “saturated” the color appears. Wet (or polished) articles therefore generally have a more color-intensive effect than dry ones.
To achieve luster and depth of color, it is accordingly necessary to smooth the applicable surface. This can be achieved, among other ways, by applying a thin, transparent coating with the highest possible index of refraction, which compensates for fine irregularities of the surface.
For hair, this surface coating—applied using suitable recipes—can be made up of various classes of substances. To that end, in the past, above all mineral oils of various fractions, vaseline, various polymers, and recently to an increasing extent silicone oils have been used in hair treatment preparations. The disadvantage of these substances is their poor biodegradability, sometimes a greasy appearance of the hair, and occasional physiological compatability problems.
The object of the invention was therefore to make available a cosmetic preparation with which smoothing of the hair surface and an increase in luster and color depth of the hair can be attained, and which does not have the aforementioned disadvantages.
Along with luster and depth of color, the desired properties of the hair also include in particular elasticity, manageability, and the stability and volume of the hairstyle. The hair is affected mostly negatively in terms of its physical, chemical, and morphological properties by factors of various kinds. The hair is severely stressed and damaged, especially in the region of the ends, by such cosmetic treatments as repeated bleaching, permanent-waving and dyeing, but also by frequent washing with degreasing surfactants, by such climatic factors as humidity and temperature differences, or by the intensive action of sunlight, as well as by such mechanical treatment as brushing, combing, and towel-drying. The hair becomes brittle and loses its luster. The damaged hair becomes electrostatically charged when brushed and combed. The hair surface is roughened, leading to matting and tangling. This all makes the hair extraordinarily difficult to comb and detangle.
Hair conditioning and hair cleaning preparations that improve combability and condition the hair to improve its condition accordingly have considerable significance. In hair conditioning and cleaning preparations, to this end, cationic surfactants, cationic polymers or silicone compounds are employed. They bring about good combability, detangling, and good feel of the hair when wet, but although the criteria when the hair is wet are satisfactory, these factors impair good stylability, elasticity, stability, hold and volume of the hairstyle when the hair is dry.
It was therefore a further object to make available a cosmetic preparation for improving elasticity, manageability, stability and volume of the hairstyle.
Along with preparations for conditioning and cleaning the hair and preparations for changing the color and intensifying the color, preparations for deforming the hair play a particular role. A distinction is made here between preparations for permanent hair deformation, that is, permanent-waving preparations, and preparations for temporarily deforming the hair, which are known as styling products.
Hair styling products or hair strengthening preparations can be applied in the most various forms (lotion, foam, spray, gel, cream). The basis for all hair strengthening preparations is polymers of natural or synthetic origin, which make the essential contribution to strengthening the hair. Since currently available polymers by themselves are not capable of meeting all the demands of a hair strengthening preparation, it is necessary to employ additives, which improve certain properties, in addition to these polymers.
Among the demands made of a hair strengthening preparation is that the preparation should assure a good hold of the hairstyle, along with a pleasant feel, good combability, and good luster. At the same time, the hair should feel as free as possible and have good elasticity. Since additives that improve hair elasticity are quite rare, it was the object of the present invention to make available a cosmetic preparation that improves the elasticity of styling products.
The human skin is exposed to numerous harmful factors. It is stressed by such environmental factors as dryness and cold, for instance. The skin of housewives, doctors and hair stylists, especially, but also of numerous other occupational groups as well, is damaged by repeated washing with wetting or extracting substances or by contact with chemicals. This also includes leaching out by water, and aggressive chemicals such as chlorinated water, saltwater and acidic rain water, UV light, oxidative stress, and drying caused by heat from the sun or a hair dryer, for instance.
To lessen the effect of such stresses, substances that form a protective film can be applied to the skin. They should be hydrophobic, since the harmful factors occur preferentially in conjunction with water; on the other hand, however, it should be possible to wash them out again using soap.
The object of cosmetic preparations for skin treatment is to protect the skin against the above-described harmful environmental factors, to replace the loss of natural skin oils and moisture, and if damage has occurred to promote the restoration of skin functions.
All these objects are attained by using a resin which is isolated from the leaves of Ilex aquifolium (common holly) or Ilex paraguariensis (maté).
The present invention relates to the natural surface coating of the leaves of common hollies (Ilex aquifolium) and mate (Ilex paraguariensis).
The leaves of common hollies are deep green, leathery and glossy in appearance and of considerable sturdiness. In some countries they are used for Christmas decorations indoors. They last for many weeks in heated, dry room air without significantly losing their attractiveness. Clearly, these leaves have a highly effective protective sheath, which not only lends them their deep color and excellent gloss but also protects them against drying out under difficult conditions and against the uncontrolled invasion of oxygen from the air; it can take years before a picked Ilex leaf exhibits signs of wilting and before the chlorophyll, which is otherwise very vulnerable, loses its color or the smooth surface becomes wrinkled.
Surprisingly, it has been discovered that this protective sheath can be isolated and its effect can be employed to meet the needs of cosmetics.
By extraction of Ilex leaves using suitable
Baecker Sabine
Bormuth Hiltrud
Franzke Michael
Kischka Karl-Heinz
Kripp Thomas
Dudash Diana
Sharareh Shahnam
Striker Michael J.
Wella Aktiengesellschaft
LandOfFree
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