Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Preparations characterized by special physical form – Cosmetic – antiperspirant – dentifrice
Reexamination Certificate
1999-06-23
2003-03-25
Travers, Russell (Department: 1617)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Preparations characterized by special physical form
Cosmetic, antiperspirant, dentifrice
C424S070190, C514S938000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06537562
ABSTRACT:
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
This invention relates to cosmetic PIT emulsions produced by the phase-inversion temperature (PIT) method containing wax esters, triglycerides, glycerides and nonionic surfactants and to their use for the production of refatting systems.
Personal cleansing processes always result in the partial removal of skin and hair lipids. Accordingly, intensive washing of the skin can produce signs of drying out while frequent shampooing of the hair can result in a loss of flexibility. Accordingly, modern cosmetic formulations frequently contain refatting agents to counteract these effects. For example, C
12/18
fatty acid monoesters and diesters of ethylene oxide/glycerol adducts are known as refatting agents from DE-PS 2024051. German patent application DE-A1 4337041 (Henkel) relates to a process for the production of o/w emulsions by the PIT method in which (a) oils, (b) 0.5 to 30% by weight of nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 12 to 18 and (c) 0.1 to 30% by weight of esters of polyols containing 3 to 6 carbon atoms and fatty acids are used. However, the use of active deodorizing agents, perfume oils or light filters is essential in that case. Unfortunately, known refatting emulsions are attended by the disadvantage that they are unstable and undergo an extreme increase in viscosity, particularly at relatively high storage temperatures. In addition, their refatting effect is often found to have disappeared after prolonged storage. Another problem is that the surfactant content of many cosmetic formulations leads to unwanted solubilization of the refatting emulsions which cannot be counteracted, even by the use of waxes.
Accordingly, the complex problem addressed by the present invention was to provide new refatting systems which would combine excellent performance, i.e. sensorial, properties with high stability in storage. In particular, the refatting systems according to the invention would have a constant viscosity and would remain stable, i.e. would not separate, even when stored at relatively high temperatures. In addition, neither solubilization nor agglomeration would occur in the presence of surfactants.
DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to cosmetic PIT emulsions containing
(a) wax esters,
(b) triglycerides,
(c) partial glycerides and
(d) fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers.
It has surprisingly been found that mixtures of components (a) to (d) almost ideally satisfy the complex requirement profile. The mixtures have excellent refatting and conditioning properties which they retain even in the event of prolonged storage. The emulsions have a constant viscosity and remain stable to separation, even after storage for 4 weeks at 45° C. In the presence of surfactants, no solubilization is observed. The invention includes the observation that the production of the emulsions by the PIT method is a critical parameter so far as their effectiveness is concerned.
Wax Esters
The wax esters which form component (a) are esters of long-chain carboxylic acids with long-chain alcohols which preferably correspond to formula (I):
R
1
CO—OR
2
(I)
in which R
1
CO is a saturated and/or unsaturated acyl group containing 6 to 22 and preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms and R
2
is an alkyl and/or alkenyl group containing 6 to 22 and preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Typical examples are esters of caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and technical mixtures thereof with caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof. Preferred esters are cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetyl erucate, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, stearyl erucate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isostearyl behenate, isostearyl erucate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl erucate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl stearate, behenyl isostearate, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl oleate and mixtures thereof. Esters of the alcohols mentioned with fruit acids, for example malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid, fruit waxes and silicone waxes may also be used as the wax esters.
Triglycerides
The triglycerides which form component (b) according to the invention are compounds corresponding to formula (II):
in which R
3
CO, R
4
CO and R
5
CO independently of one another represent linear or branched, saturated and/or unsaturated, optionally hydroxy- and/or epoxy-substituted acyl groups containing 6 to 22 and preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms and the sum (m+n+p) is 0 or a number of 1 to 100 and preferably 20 to 80. The triglycerides may be of natural origin or may be synthetically produced. They are preferably hydroxyfunctionalized and/or epoxyfunctionalized substances such as, for example, castor oil or hydrogenated castor oil, epoxidized castor oil, ring opening products of epoxidized castor oils having various epoxide numbers with water and addition products of, on average, 1 to 100, preferably 20 to 80 and more preferably 40 to 60 moles with the triglycerides mentioned.
Partial Glycerides
Component (c) may be selected from partial glycerides, i.e. monoglycerides, diglycerides and technical mixtures thereof which may still contain small quantities of triglycerides from their production. The partial glycerides preferably correspond to formula (III):
in which R
6
CO is a linear or branched, saturated and/or unsaturated acyl group containing 6 to 22 and preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, R
7
and R
8
independently of one another have the same meaning as R
6
CO or represent OH and the sum (m+n+p) is 0 or a number of 1 to 100 and preferably 5 to 25, with the proviso that at least one of the two substituents R
7
and R
8
represents OH. Typical examples are mono- and/or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and technical mixtures thereof. Technical lauric acid glycerides, palmitic acid glycerides, stearic acid glycerides, isostearic acid glycerides, oleic acid glycerides, behenic acid glycerides and/or erucic acid glycerides which have a monoglyceride content of 50 to 95% by weight and preferably 60 to 90% by weight are preferably used.
Fatty Alcohol Polyglycol Ethers
Finally, component (d) is selected from fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers corresponding to formula (IV):
R
9
O(CH
2
CH
2
O)
q
H (IV)
in which R
9
is a linear or branched alkyl and/or alkenyl group containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms and q is a number of 1 to 50. Typical examples are addition products of, on average, 1 to 50 and preferably 5 to 25 moles of ethylene oxide with caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof. The surfac
Boettcher Axel
Hensen Hermann
Seipel Werner
Berman Alyisa
Cognis Deutschland GmbH & Co. KG
Drach John E.
Travers Russell
Trzaska Steven J.
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