Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition for the treatment of...

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Preparations characterized by special physical form – Liposomes

Reexamination Certificate

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C424S401000, C424S404000, C424S059000, C424S070100, C514S725000, C514S844000, C514S880000, C514S937000

Reexamination Certificate

active

06177100

ABSTRACT:

The present invention relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition for the treatment of the hair and scalp.
It is well known that hair is, to various degrees, sensitized or made brittle by the action of atmospheric agents, as well as by the action of various cosmetic treatments such as permanent waving, dyeing or bleaching. The hair then becomes difficult to disentangle and to style. Moreover, the hair becomes harsh to the touch.
Compositions have been sought which facilitate disentangling and styling of the hair and improve its softness to the touch. To this end, cationic surface active agents are currently employed. While these surface active agents improve the disentangling and styling of the hair, they exhibit some disadvantages: they have a tendency to make the hair heavy and impart to it an oily appearance. These disadvantages are all the more accentuated as the hair being treated is more fine.
To this same end, the use of quaternized proteins has been proposed. These proteins neither make the hair heavy nor impart an oily appearance to it. To the contrary, while they improve disentangling and styling of the hair they are clearly inferior in these respects to the results achieved by cationic surface active agents.
Attempts have also been made to use compositions containing both a cationic surface active agent and a quaternized protein. But in this case, the effect obtained is inferior to the sum of the effects that are obtained separately with the use of the cationic surface active agent and the use of the quaternized protein. In the majority of the cases, the presence of the cationic surface active agent on the hair interferes with the quaternized protein.
Moreover, it has been known for a very long time to use oils and fatty bodies to restore softness and shine to the hair. The application of these compounds is generally followed by a shampoo to eliminate from the hair excess oil or fatty bodies. However, the use of oils and fatty bodies weakens the hair and makes it heavy, and it is impossible subsequently to obtain a style having hold and volume.
GB-A 2 157 168 proposes to combine in a composition at least one cationic surface active agent, at least one water soluble quaternized protein and at least one cationic silicon polymer so as to obtain compositions which easily permit disentanglement and styling of the hair without weakening the hair and which impart to the hair shine and softness. Moreover, after disentanglement, the hair is supple and light from the roots to the tips, even in the case of sensitized hair.
According to the present invention, it has now been found that, by replacing the silicon polymer in the above-mentioned compositions with hydrated lipids, the resulting composition exhibits effects which are at least equivalent to and more often better than those obtained with the corresponding compositions containing the cationic silicon polymers, especially with respect to the lightness and the fullness of the treated hair. Moreover, compositions obtained with non-ionic amphiphilic lipids surprisingly provide the advantage of exhibiting a hydrating effect on the scalp, in absence of any hydrating agent. This effect provides an agreeable sensation of freshness and comfort to the scalp during application of the compositions to the scalp. It results from these facts that the compositions according to the invention do not contain cationic silicon polymers.
Moreover, the compositions in accordance with the present invention have excellent storage stability.
The present invention thus relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition for the treatment of the hair and scalp comprising non-ionic amphiphilic lipids capable of forming a hydrated, lipidic lamellar phase, insoluble in water, optionally combined with a stabilizing agent, the said lipids being dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, wherein said aqueous phase contains:
(1) at least one cationic surface active agent having the formula
wherein
X is principally chloride or CH
3
SO—
4
and
R
1
is C
1
-C
6
alkyl, preferably, methyl, and in which:
(a) when X is chloride:
either R
2
and R
3
are C
1
-C
4
alkyl, identical or different from R
1
and each other, and R
4
is C
16
-C
22
alkyl;
or R
2
=R
1
and, in this case:
either R
3
=R
4
=C
18
alkyl;
or R
3
=(C
17
alkyl)amidopropyl and R
4
=(C
14
alkyl) acetate;
(b) when X is CH
3
SO

4
:
R
2
represents (alkyl and/or alkenyl)amidoethyl, in which the alkyl and/or alkenyl radical is C
13
-C
21
and is derived from fatty acids of tallow;
R
3
and R
4
together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached form a substituted 4,5-dihydroxyimidazole heterocycle, principally a 2-(C
13
-C
21
alkyl derived from the fatty acids of tallow) 4,5-dihydroxyimidazole and/or
(2) at least one quaternized protein constituted by a chemically modified polypeptide having, at the extremity or grafted onto it, at least one quaternized ammonium group which contains at least one C
1
-C
18
alkyl group, the polypeptide being selected from among the hydrolyzates of animal protein.
When this hydrated lipidic lamellar phase forms vesicles, they are called niosomes. The niosomes contained in the composition according to the present invention have, advantageously, an average diameter ranging from 0.01 to 5&mgr; and preferably from 0.1 to 0.35&mgr;.
The niosomes are known in the art. They, as well as a process for their preparation, are described in FR-A-2315 991, U.S. Pat. No. 4,772,471 and WO-88/06881. They are spherules or vesicles constituted of one or more concentric lipid layers separated by layers of an internal aqueous phase. In the case of niosomes, the lipids employed for the production of the spherules or vesicles are, in a known manner, nonionic amphiphiles, of synthetic or natural origin, having per molecule, one or several long chain hydrocarbons.
In accordance with the invention the nonionic lipidic amphiphile compounds constituting the hydrated, lipidic lamellar phase, insoluble in water, are advantageously selected from the linear or branched ethers or esters of polyglycerol having the respective formulas:
wherein
{overscore (n)} has a statistical average value between 2 and 6 and R
5
is:
(1) either an R
6
aliphatic chain or R′
6
CO radical, wherein R
6
is a linear or branched aliphatic radical having 12-18 carbon atoms and R′
6
is a linear or branched aliphatic radical having 11-17 carbon atoms; or
(2) a
radical wherein R
7
and R
8
, each independently, are R
6
and R′
6
radicals, R
6
and R′
6
having the meanings given above.
In a known manner, these nonionic lipidic compounds constituting the hydrated lipidic lamellar phase are, preferably, combined with at least one stabilizing additive so as to modify the permeability or the superficial charge of the lipidic layers of the hydrated lipidic lamellar phase. In accordance with the present invention, the stabilizing additives are more particularly selected from the group consisting of sterols such as cholesterol or &bgr;-sitosterol; monosodium or disodium salts of acyl glutamates, the acyl radical having 14-22 carbon atoms, such as the monosodium salt of stearoyl glutamate, the disodium salts of cocoyl glutamate, of stearoyl glutamate or of mixtures of acyl radicals derived from copra and tallow; and phosphoric esters of C
12
-C
16
fatty alcohols.
In the case where the nonionic amphiphilic lipid is a compound of formula (II) or (III) defined above, where R
5
represents R
6
or R′
6
CO, R
6
and R′
6
having the above-indicated meanings, the said nonionic amphiphilic lipid is combined with both a sterol, preferably cholesterol, and an anionic additive.
The anionic stabilizers are combined with the nonionic amphiphilic lipid compounds in an amount not exceeding 12 percent by weight relative to the weight of the nonionic amphiphilic lipids constituting the hydrated lipidic lamellar phase. For the sterols, and principally cholesterol, this same proportion must remain lower than or equal to 100 percent by weight.
In ac

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