Cosmetic or dermatological compositions of polyurethane...

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Designated organic nonactive ingredient containing other... – Aftertreated solid synthetic organic polymer

Reexamination Certificate

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C514S772300, C424S070120, C424S401000, C523S105000, C524S588000, C525S452000, C525S453000, C525S474000

Reexamination Certificate

active

06319959

ABSTRACT:

The present invention relates to the use in and for the production of cosmetic or dermatological compositions, especially in the field of hair care, make-up, and beauty or hygiene products, of polyurethane and/or polyurea block polycondensation products comprising a chain formed by the repetition of at least one polyurethane and/or polyurea block -[-M-]- containing a polysiloxane graft.
In cosmetic formulations it is common to employ film-forming organic polymers in order to provide properties of form retention and fixation of the hair in styling products applied with rinsing and without, eyelash-sheathing properties in mascaras, protective coating properties in nail varnishes or skin care products, and adhesion properties in make-up products such as compact powders, foundations, eyeliners or skin care products.
These various properties are in general linked to the film-forming characteristics of the organic polymer, especially the mechanical properties and the surface energy (adhesion).
It is also common to use silicones in the form of oils, gums or waxes in order to additionally provide the treated keratinous materials with surface properties such as sheen or gloss in the field of hair care products, mascaras or nail varnishes, lubricity, permanence with respect to water, and softness to the touch without a greasy appearance. The use of more or less fluid silicones makes it possible to obtain these properties, but such silicones, once applied to the hair, nails, eyelashes or skin, are not durable owing to the fact that they have inadequate mechanical properties.
In recent years, particular interest has become evident in the realization of film-forming cosmetic compositions comprising a combination of one or more film-forming organic polymers with one or more silicones.
However, these combinations do not provide the additive effect of the properties specific to each constituent of these combinations. The silicones with the greatest performance, namely the polydimethylsiloxanes and polymethylphenyisiloxanes, are in fact incompatible with the majority of the organic polymers in the formulation.
On the other hand, in order for these combinations to be able to provide the expected properties, it is necessary for the mixtures of these constituents to lead to stratification following application and drying. The film-forming polymer must go into direct contact with the hair, eyelash, nail or skin, and must provide good adhesion, whereas the silicone must, preferably, go to the surface, in order to provide the surface with characteristics of sheen or gloss, lubricity, softness to the touch and permanence with respect to water. It is therefore difficult simply by mixing film-forming polymers and silicones in one formulation to obtain, simultaneously, good compatibility of the constituents and an additive effect of their properties.
To overcome these disadvantages, multiblock polycondensation products are known whose chain is formed from at least one polyurethane and/or polyurea block and which comprise anionic or cationic groups and at least one polysiloxane block. They are described in the patent application EP-A-0 636 361, the disclosure of which is specifically incorporated by reference herein.
In order to obtain good surface properties specific to the silicones, these multiblock copolymers must comprise a large quantity of polysiloxane blocks in the chain, which has the disadvantage of reducing the film-forming properties, and especially the mechanical properties, which are desired for the various cosmetic applications (excessively soft or elastomeric films). This type of copolymer is used only in aqueous dispersion in the form of a pseudo-latex; this considerably limits the possibilities for their use in other forms of formulations, such as organic or aqueous-organic solutions, and, in particular, for the preparation of anhydrous formulations, such as lipsticks, waterproof mascaras and make-up powders.
The inventors have surprisingly discovered new block polycondensation products, as well as new uses for block polycondensation products of the prior art. The claimed invention pertains to use of block polycondensation products whose chain is formed by the repetition of at least one polyurethane and/or polyurea block comprising a polysiloxane graft.
The polymers according to the present invention can provide good adhesion characteristics to the hair, eyelashes, nails and skin. They can make it possible to obtain deposits or coatings which are highly permanent to the action of water, or water in the presence of surfactants. At the surface, moreover, these deposits can exhibit the characteristics of silicones, namely sheen or gloss, lubricity, permanence and softness to the touch. These deposits can retain advantageous mechanical properties when the polymers of the invention are used alone or in combination with other organic polymers.
The polyurethane and/or polyurea polycondensation products containing silicone grafts of the invention can make it possible to obtain a good additive effect of the film-forming properties of the polyurethanes and/or polyureas and surface characteristics of the silicones.
In comparison to the polyurethane and/or polyurea polycondensation products with silicone blocks of the prior art, they also can have surface properties, imparted by the silicones, which are substantially improved, such as sheen or gloss, lubricity, softness to the touch and permanence with respect to water, without impairment of the film-forming properties of the polymer.
The block polycondensation products according to the invention can have the advantage of being compatible with conventional silicones and/or other additional organic polymers which are also present in the same formulation. Owing to their silicone-grafted chain, they can make it possible to combine these conventional silicones with these additional organic polymers.
The block polycondensation products according to the invention may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric, nonionic, or zwitterionic in nature and are insoluble in water. Their structure permits their use not only in aqueous dispersions in the form of a pseudo-latex, the definition of which will be given below, but also in solution in an organic solvent, thereby opening up greater possibilities for cosmetic formulations.
The polyurethane and/or polyurea block polycondensation products used according to the invention are characterized in that their chain is formed by the repetition of at least one polyurethane and/or polyurea block -[-M-]- comprising a polysiloxane graft.
The number-average molecular weights of the silicone-grafted polyurethane and/or polyurea polycondensation products can vary within wide limits, preferably ranging from 2000 to 500,000, and more preferably from 3000 to 250,000.
The polycondensation products according to the invention are preferably multiblock, and their chain, in addition to containing the repetition of at least one block -[-M]- described above also contains the repetition of a polyurethane and/or polyurea block -[-N-]- containing nonionic and/or anionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic groups and/or the repetition of a polyurethane and/or polyurea block -[-G-]- containing oligomers of organic polymers and/or the repetition of a polysiloxane block -[-L-]-.
The various blocks -[-M-]-, -[-N-]-, -[-G-]- and -[-L-]- forming the chain of the multiblock polycondensation products of the invention are preferably distributed randomly.
For ready comprehension of the following description, and in particular of the definition of the formulae given, an explanation will first be given, but only in very general terms, of the general process for the synthesis of the block polycondensation products of the invention. The details of the process will be given further below. Similarly, the definitions and values of certain radicals and other parameters will be given further below.
The polycondensation products according to the invention can be pr

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