Cosmetic or dermatological composition in an aqueous medium...

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Effervescent or pressurized fluid containing – Organic pressurized fluid

Reexamination Certificate

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C424S061000, C424S070100, C424S070700

Reexamination Certificate

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06531113

ABSTRACT:

The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least one film-forming oligomer which is soluble or dispersible in the said medium, and at least one type of rigid, non-film-forming nanometric, i.e., average particle size of less than or equal to 1 &mgr;m, particles dispersed in the said medium, as well as to their uses in the cosmetics or dermopharmacy field, in particular in products for maintaining the hairstyle, products for coating the eyelashes and eyebrows, and nail make-up and/or care products.
Film-forming polymers that are soluble in aqueous and aqueous-alcoholic media, such as polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers, and anionic or amphoteric acrylic resins are commonly used in hair fixing products, mascaras or nail make-up and/or care products.
The hair fixing products most widely found on the cosmetics market are spray compositions comprising a solution, usually an aqueous-alcoholic solution, and a film-forming polymer which is soluble in water and in alcohol, such as those mentioned above, as a mixture with various cosmetic adjuvants. This solution is generally packaged either in a suitable aerosol container placed under pressure by means of a propellant gas, or in a pump-dispenser.
For a certain number of years, special interest has developed in aerosol lacquers or pump-dispensers containing high water concentrations with a high film-forming polymer “solids content”.
Throughout this description, the expression aerosol or pump-dispenser with a “high solids content” of lacquering product will be understood to refer to any aqueous formulation packaged in the form of an aerosol or pump-dispenser containing more than 5% solids by weight of lacquering product relative to the total weight of the said formulation.
On the one hand, it is sought to decrease the concentrations of compounds that are volatile at atmospheric pressure, referred to as VOC (volatile organic compound), present in spray compositions in the form of an aerosol or a pump-dispenser. The reason for this is that the use of alcohol, alone or as a mixture with a small amount of water, and the use of propellant gases may have certain drawbacks such as increasing flammability or environmental pollution.
VOCs are mainly propellant gases such as hydrocarbons or dimethyl ether (DME) and solvents such as ethanol.
On the other hand, it is sought to reduce the drying time of the sprayed product and to increase its lacquering power after it is sprayed on the hair. The use of water-soluble film-forming polymers in aerosols or pump-dispensers with high water concentrations, in particular in water/ethanol/dimethyl ether spray systems having a maximum VOC content of 55%, requires higher concentrations of polymer solids compared with those used in organic spray systems (100% VOC) in order to obtain satisfactory fixing powers and drying times.
The reason for this is that the increase in water concentration in the aerosol or pump-dispenser packagings leads to a large decrease in lacquering power as well as to much longer drying times.
The film-forming polymers usually used in compositions of this type have molecular weights, measured by steric exclusion chromatography, which are generally greater than 50,000 and more preferably greater than 100,000. The increase in their concentration in aerosol lacquers or pump-dispensers with high water contents leads to excessively high viscosities, such that the product can no longer be satisfactorily sprayed from the aerosol or the pump-dispenser.
To overcome these problems of viscosity, one solution would consist in using film-forming oligomers which are soluble or dispersible in the medium of the composition to be sprayed, affording a low viscosity. Presently, most of the oligomers, with a molecular weight of less than 50,000, used in products to maintain the hair have mechanical properties that are insufficient to obtain a satisfactory lacquering power, even at high concentrations.
The inventors have discovered, surprisingly, that by combining rigid, non-film-forming nanometric particles with film-forming oligomers with a molecular weight of less than 50,000, that are soluble or dispersible in aqueous media, aerosol lacquers or pump-dispensers may be made with a high lacquering agent solids content, having good diffusion on application, a good lacquering power and a good rate of drying. This combination is most particularly suited to aerosol hair compositions with a “high solids content” of the water/ethanol/DME type having a maximum VOC content of 55%.
The inventors have discovered that this specific combination of polymers constitutes an agent for coating keratin substances, having at the same time good cosmetic properties in particular as regards the feel and the disentangling, good film-forming properties, satisfactory mechanical properties for fixing the hair, good properties of adhesion to the eyelashes and the eyebrows and satisfactory mechanical properties for coating the nails.
After application to the keratin support and drying, a deposit of a composite material is obtained, the structure of which is a continuous hydrophilic material formed by the filmified oligomer, the matrix containing a plurality of rigid nodules comprised of the non-film-forming nanometric particles.
Depending on the respective proportions of the film-forming oligomer and of the rigid, non-filmifiable (non-film-forming) particles, cosmetic hair compositions may be prepared having good lacquering power, good resistance to moisture by reducing the effect of stickiness by hydroscopicity which the hydrophilic oligomer may impart, and good elimination on washing on account of the hydrophilic nature of the continuous matrix of the composite deposit.
The combination in accordance with the present invention also makes it possible to prepare products for coating the eyelashes and the eyebrows, in particular cream mascaras and waterproof mascaras, which have a good power of adhesion to the eyelashes and the eyebrows, are free of any effect of surface stickiness of the film and can easily be eliminated on washing with a make-up remover with a low surfactant content.
The combination in accordance with the invention also makes it possible to prepare nail make-up and/or care products having good adhesion to the nail, good hardness and good rigidity. Furthermore, they can be entirely removed with water or in the presence of a make-up remover with a low surfactant content.
The cosmetic or dermatological compositions in accordance with the invention are characterized in that they comprise, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium:
(A) at least one film-forming oligomer having a molecular weight, preferably measured by steric exclusion chromatography, of less than or equal to 50,000, said at least one film-forming oligomer being soluble or dispersible in said cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium; and
(B) rigid, non-film-forming particles of average size less than or equal to 1 &mgr;m, said rigid, non-film-forming particles being dispersed in said cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium.
The oligomers of the compositions according to the invention preferably have a molecular weight, measured by steric exclusion chromatography, ranging from 500 to 45,000.
The oligomers of the compositions according to the invention preferably have a glass transition temperature T′g ranging −50° C. to +50° C. and is more preferably from −30 to +40° C. They are preferably soluble in aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic media.
For example, the oligomers in the compositions according to the invention may be nonionic, such as vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers. They may be amphoteric, for instance N-octylacrylamide/methyl methacrylate/hydroxypropyl methacrylate/acrylic acid/t-butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers such as the product sold under the name Amphomer by the company National Starch. They may also be anionic.
The oligomers particularly preferred are an

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