Cosmetic or dermatological composition forming, on a keratin...

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Preparations characterized by special physical form – Cosmetic – antiperspirant – dentifrice

Reexamination Certificate

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C424S061000, C424S063000, C424S070100, C424S070120

Reexamination Certificate

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06352699

ABSTRACT:

The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition forming a film-forming coating of a crosslinked hybrid material on a keratinous substrate after drying, and to its use, in particular in the field of hair products, make-up products and skincare products.
The expression “keratinous substrate” as used in the present invention means not only the hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and nails, but also the skin.
In the cosmetic and dermatological fields, a film is generally formed on a keratinous substrate using a variety of types of polymers in solution or as a dispersion. After drying, and depending on the nature of the polymer, films are obtained with mechanical and cosmetic characteristics which are specific to the envisaged use.
While until now a number of studies have been directed towards a wide variety of organic film-forming polymers primarily intended for haircare compositions or for nail varnish compositions, very few studies have been directed towards organic-inorganic polymers, also termed hybrid materials.
The first studies result from an article by F. Sardo, American Cosmetics and Perfumeries, vol. 87, 43-46 (1972) which describes, as a hair fixative, compositions containing organic titanate and dimethylsilicone copolymers, these being obtained by polymerizing a silicone and an organic titanate in the presence of water, and evaporating the alcohol formed. However, it was shown that such organic-inorganic copolymers had the disadvantage of being neither soluble nor dispersible in alcohols, in particular in ethanol. These proved only to be soluble in non-cosmetic solvents such as aliphatic, aromatic and chlorinated hydrocarbons, in particular in 1,1,1-trichloroethane. That article also indicates that the major disadvantage of such organic-inorganic polymers is that they cannot be eliminated, even after several washes, because of their high adhesion to the hair.
U.S. Pat. No. 4,344,763 also describes a hair shaping method consisting in moistening the hair with water then applying a solution containing, in isopropanol, 0.5% to 15% by weight of an aminoalkylalkoxysilane and 0.005% to 1.5% by weight of an organic titanate and then shaping the hair as desired. In that method, it is particularly recommended that the isopropanol solution be kept protected from any moisture.
Further, in contrast to the article by F. Sardo, it is maintained that that method only leads to temporary shaping of the hair and thus is reversible in nature.
EP-A-0 113 992 also describes a method for simultaneously fixing and conditioning the hair using a composition, which is stable in the absence of moisture, containing (A) a siloxane oligomer containing at least one nitrogen-hydrogen bond and (B) a readily hydrolysable anhydrous additive selected from titanates, zirconates, vanadates, germanates and mixtures thereof.
As in the article by F. Sardo, the solvent for the composition is an aliphatic hydrocarbon or an aliphatic halohydrocarbon, preferably 1,1,1-trichloroethane. After applying the composition to the hair, the hair is placed in a moist atmosphere to cause crosslinking of the siloxane oligomer and the readily hydrolysable anhydrous additive. The crosslinked film formed on the hair is described in that patent as also being reversible, i.e., that after washing, even with water, the hair loses its initial shape, this phenomenon of reversibility being assumed to be due to de-cross-linking.
An analysis of the prior art leads to the conclusion that no valid solution has been proposed for forming, by an easily implemented method, a film of a hybrid material of a non reversible nature by an in situ sol/gel reaction, from a stable cosmetic or dermatological composition which is easy to apply.
In certain cosmetic applications, in particular in the treatment of hair, and more particularly in the treatment of nails, it is important to be able to produce a film with good adhesive properties which can withstand over time a large number of washes without its properties being affected.
Thus one aim of the present invention is to provide a composition for fixing and/or colouring the hair which can, in a single application after rapid drying, produce long-lasting hold and/or coloration which can withstand washing, even after several shampoos, without affecting the properties endowed upon the hair.
A further aim of the present invention is to provide an eyelash make-up composition such as a mascara which, after drying, produces good coverage and coloration of the eyelashes while being resistant to water and to ambient humidity.
A further aim of the present invention is to provide a colourless or coloured nail varnish composition giving rise to a film with excellent gloss, good surface hardness, good mechanical properties, in particular impact strength (no flaking) and which can withstand washing with water, detergents and other normal organic cosmetic solvents.
Finally, a further aim of the present invention is to provide a composition for skin care or treatment to endow it with a care and protective effect giving rise to an invisible film which can withstand dry rubbing, washing and detergents.
The subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic or dermatological composition for forming a coating of a crosslinked hybrid material on a keratinous substrate, characterized in that said composition is a sol/gel type composition and is obtained by mixing:
(a) at least one organometallic (or metallo-organic) compound;
(b) at least one functionalized organic polymer or a precursor of said polymer, or at least one functionalized silicone polymer or a precursor of said polymer, the latter precursor being different from (a);
(c) a sufficient quantity of water to hydrolyse the organometallic compound; and
(d) optionally, at least one alcohol; said coating being non reversible in nature.
The expression “functionalized” as used in the invention means the presence of functional groups which can interact physically or chemically.
The expression “non reversible” as used in the invention means that the hybrid material formed after application of the composition and evaporation of the solvent(s) retains its initial structure, i.e., it is not de-crosslinked after several washes with water.
This non-reversibility of the hybrid material formed in accordance with the invention is essentially due to the fact that it has a high degree of cross-linking on a nanometric scale and a very low surface energy.
When the composition as defined above is applied to a keratinous substrate, a sol/gel reaction occurs which, after evaporation of the solvent(s), leads to the formation of a hybrid material by polycondensation and cross-linking on a nanometric scale.
The crosslinked hybrid material thus formed can be of a highly varied structure. It can thus be in the form of a more or less dense network of inorganic polymer chains originating from the organometallic compound and chains of organic or silicone polymer, these being connected together by physical, ionic and/or covalent bonds.
The hybrid material can also consist of mineral nodules originating from the organometallic compound and chains of organic or silicone polymer, the nodules being physically or chemically linked to the organic or silicone polymer chains. The nanometric size of the mineral nodules is very small, generally in the range 1 to 20 nanometers. These nodules can also take the form of aggregates or clusters.
The organometallic compound of the sol/gel type composition of the invention can be selected from the group formed by:
(i) oxides of transition metals from groups 1b to 7b, from group 8 or from the lanthanide series in the periodic table;
(ii) aluminium, boron, silicon, tin, titanium, cerium or tungsten oxides; and
(iii) aluminium phosphates.
Preferably, the organometallic compound is selected from the group formed by:
(1) alkylsilanes, alkyl titanates or alkyl zirconates corresponding to one of the following formulae:
M&Parenopenst;OR
1
)
n
  (Ia)
R—MOR&Parenopenst;OR
1
)
n−1
  (Ib)
(OR
1
&Parenclosest;)
n−1
M—R—M&Pareno

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