Cosmetic or dermatological composition containing at least one s

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Designated organic active ingredient containing – Cyclopentanohydrophenanthrene ring system doai

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A61K 3156

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056631600

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BRIEF SUMMARY
This application is a 371 of PCT/FR93/00899 filed Sep. 17, 1993.
The present invention relates to a novel cosmetic or dermatological composition containing at least one saponin of the ginsenoside type and to its applications, especially for treating the hair.
Saponins, especially those derived from plants of the Panax type, have formed the subject of numerous studies. The article published in Chem. Pharm. Bull., 31, 9, 3205-3209 (1983) presents a chemical and morphological study of saponins derived from the rhizomes of Panax japonicus harvested in China, and compares them with those derived from the Japanese species. In particular, it demonstrates the important difference in saponin composition between the species.
Among the studies dedicated to saponins, especially those of the ginsenoside type, very particular mention may be made of a recent study published in Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 36, (1992), 27-38, which brings together chemical researches carried out on ginseng. In particular, said article cites various pharmacological activities of ginsengs, especially those of Panax notoginseng or San-chi (product I in Tables 1 and 2), and the physicochemical parameters of the different ginsenosides (cf. Table 4).
The Applicant carried out a comparative study of the effect of different saponins and showed, in particular, the value of the saponins of San-chi compared with those of ginseng.
This study led the Applicant to discover that novel cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions containing a saponin of the ginsenoside type called G--Rb.sub.1, of the following structure: ##STR2## in which: R.sub.1 =Glc(2-1)Glc, valuable activity for arresting and/or slowing down hair loss. The Applicant also discovered that this saponin could advantageously be combined with other saponins, especially with saponins present in Panax notoginseng or San-chi.
The Applicant moreover discovered that particularly advantageous effects as regards the limitation of hair loss and/or renewed hair growth were obtained when the saponin G--Rb.sub.1, whether or not in combination with the other saponins mentioned above, was associated with cepharantine or oxyacanthine in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition.
Thus, according to a first feature, the present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition intended in particular for promoting hair growth, characterized in that it contains, as active ingredients, a saponin of the ginsenoside type called G--Rb.sub.1, of formula (I): ##STR3## in which: R.sub.1 =-Glc(2-1)Glc, oxyacanthine, or a derivative thereof, or a plant extract in which it is present, such as an extract of Stephania cepharantha or Berberis.
In one variant of the invention, the concentration of saponin G--Rb.sub.1 is between 0,001% and 2% and preferably between 0.02 and 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
In another variant of the invention, the composition also contains at least one other saponin of formula (I) given above: ##STR4## in which: R.sub.1 =-Glc(2-1)Glc, R.sub.2 =-Glc and R.sub.3 =H, the saponin being called G-Rd, or called Gy-XVII, or being called N--R.sub.4, or called G--Re, or G-Rg.sub.1, or G--Rh.sub.1, or called N--R.sub.1, .beta.-D-xylopyranosyl and .alpha.-L-rhamnopyranosyl group.
The abovementioned saponins of formula (I) are used in the literature and for the most part are commercially available. They are marketed in particular by EXTRA SYNTHESE (FRANCE).
They can also be introduced into the cosmetic or dermatological composition in the form of a mixture of saponins, which can be a plant extract, or in the form of a plant extract containing such a mixture.
Thus, in another variant, the abovementioned composition contains, as active ingredient, a mixture of saponins extracted from Panax notoginseng or San-chi, in particular from roots or corms.
In one particular variant, the abovementioned composition contains, as active ingredient, a mixture of saponins containing: of saponins in said mixture.
In another particular variant, the abovementioned composition contains, a

REFERENCES:
patent: 2206607 (1940-07-01), Jordhoy
patent: 2248241 (1941-07-01), Kondo
Liu et al., "Recent Advances on Ginseng Research in China", Journal of Ethnopharmacology, vol. 36 (1992), pp. 27-38.
Morita et al., "Chemical and Morphological Study on Chinese Panax japonicus C.A. Meyer (Zhujie-Shen)", Chem. Pharm. Bull., vol. 31(9) (1983), pp. 3205-3209.
Acta Botanica Yunnanica, vol. 1 (1988), pp. 47-62.
"Chemical and Morphological Study on Chinese Panax Japonicus", by C.A. Meyer, Chem. Pharm . Bull., vol. 31, No. 9, pp. 3205-3209, Feb. 18, 1983.
Chemical Abstracts, vol. 103, No. 3, Jul. 22, 1985, abstract No. 16852k, "Ginseng Saponins as Stimulators of Hair Growth", (JP, A, 60 038 314, Feb. 27, 1985).
Chemical Abstracts, vol. 115, No. 22, Dec. 2, 1991, abstract No. 239325, by T. Minabe et al, "Hair Growth-Stimulating Preparations Containing Camp, Pyruvic Acid, Fermentation Metabolites, and Natural Products", (JP,A,3 167 113, Jul. 19, 1991).
Chemical Abstracts, vol. 115, No. 22, Dec. 2, 1991, abstract No. 239293c, by H. Tanaka et al, "Effect of Panax Ginseng on the Production of Glycosaminoglycans in Cultured Human Skin Fibroblast" (Fragance J., vol. 19, No. 8, 1991, pp. 90-92).
Chemical Abstracts, vol. 113, No. 16, Oct. 15, 1990, abstract No. 138316r, by K. Kumazawa, "Hair Growth Stimulating Preparations Containing Lysozyme Chloride", (JP,A,2 157 212, Jun. 18, 1990).
Patent Abstracts of Japan, vol. 11, No. 300, C-449, Sep. 29, 1987 (JP,A,62 093 217, Oct. 18, 1985).

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