Cosmetic hair care preparations

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions

Reexamination Certificate

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C424S059000, C424S400000, C424S401000, C424S195160, C514S054000

Reexamination Certificate

active

06497865

ABSTRACT:

THE FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The invention belongs to the field of the hair cosmetics and concerns preparations with preferably film forming polymers and specific glucans as well as the use of these mixtures for the production of agents for hair treatment.
PRIOR ART
Hair cosmetic preparations, such as for example hair finishes or styling agents, contain as consolidation agents polymers, preferably of the type of polyvinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate, which are taken up on the keratin fibres and give them the desired firmness. However, a disadvantage is the fact that the films after being applied a number of times after the drying easily become brittle and then not only the styling effect disappears, but the hair can also be damaged. Accordingly, it has been suggested in the German Offenlegungsschrift DE-A1 19524125 (Henkel) to add to the polymers small amounts of chitosan. These relief measures are in many cases not adequate.
The task of the invention has consisted in making cosmetic agents available, which as film forming agents contain polymers, especially polyvinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, and which tendency to the forming of stress cracks by at least equal hardness of the films is significantly decreased.
DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The object of the invention is hair care preparations, containing
(a) water soluble &bgr;-(1,3) glucans, substantially free from &bgr;-(1,6)-linkages, and
(b) polymers.
Surprisingly, it was found, that the addition of only very small amounts of the specific glucans to polymers, especially known film forming polymers, such as e.g. polyvinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, have effect on the control of the moisture and that the tendency to forming of stress crack decreases in a synergistic manner, whilst the hardness of the films are not adversely influenced, but often in addition improved. In this connection it should especially be emphasized that glucans with poor water solubility and/or with contents of 1,6-linkages in mixture with the polymers virtually have no influence on the formation of the stress cracks.
Water Soluble II-(1,3) Glucans
The term glucans is intended to mean homopolysaccharides based on glucose. Depending on sterical linking there is a difference between &bgr;-(1,3), &bgr;-(1,4) and &bgr;-(1,6) glucans. &bgr;-(1,3) Glucans normally show a helical structure, whereas glucans with a (1,4) linkage generally have a linear structure. The &bgr;-glucans of the invention have a (1,3) structure, i.e. they are substantillay free from undesired (1,6) linkages. Preferably such &bgr;-(1,3) glucans are used where the side chains exclusively show (1,3) linkages. Especially the agents contain glucans which are obtained on the basis of yeast from the family Sacchaomyces, especially
Saccharomyces cerevisiae
. Glucans of this type are available in technical amounts according to known methods. The international patent application WO 95/30022 (Biotec-Mackzymal) describes e.g. a method for producing such substances, wherein glucans with &bgr;-(1,3) and &bgr;-(1,6) linkages are brought in contact with &bgr;-(1,6) glucanases in such a way, that practically all &bgr;-(1,6) linkages are loosened. Preferably used for the manufacture of these glucans are glucanases based on
Trichodermia harzianum
. As to the manufacture and availability of the glucans contained in these agents, reference is made to the above cited publication.
Polymers
As anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers can for example the following be used: Polyacrylates, such as e.g. Advantage® CP, Copolymer VC 713, H2OLD EP-1 (ISP), Amphomer®, Versatyl® 90 (National Starch), Luviflex® VBM 35, Luvimer®, Ultrahold® 8, Ultrahold® Strong (BASF), vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate/butyl maleate/isoboryl acrylate copolymers, maleic acid derivatives, such as e.g. Gantrez® ES 225, Gantrez® ES 425, methylvinyl ether/maleic acid anhydride copolymers and their esters, non-crosslinked polyacrylic acids and polyacrylic acids crosslinked with polyols, acrylamido propyl trimethylammonium chloride/acrylate copolymers, octylacryl amidelmethyl methacrylate/tert.-butylaminoethyl methacrylate/2-hydroxyproyl methacrylate-copolymers, polycrotoneate, such as e.g. Luviset® CA 66 or Luviset® CAP (BASF), Resyn® 28-1310 or Resyn® 28-2930 (National Starch), polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidoneldimethyl aminoethyl methacrylate/vinyl caprolactame terpolymers as well as possibly derivatised cellulose ethers and silicones. Preferably used are polyvinyl pyrrolidonelvinyl acetat copolymers (PVPNA) as well as polyvinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/vinyl pyrrolidone copolymers (PVPNANVP), such as e.g. Luviskol® VAP (BASF) or polyvinyl/caprolactame copolymers (PVCap), such as e.g. Luviskol® Plus (BASF), which for example are marketed under the name Luviskol® of BASF. A summary of suitable styling polymers can further be found in the papers of Pfrommer on the occasion of the DGK advanced training conference “Hair Treatment” (“Haarbehandlung”) 1998.
Suitable cationic polymers are for example cationic cellulose derivatives, such as e.g. a quatemized hydroxyethyl cellulose, which is available under the name of Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/vinylimidazol polymers, such as e.g. Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as for example lauryl dimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat® L /Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as e.g. amidomethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylamino hydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Cartaretine®/Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyl diallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550/Chemviron), polyamino polyamides, such as e.g. described in FR 2252840 A, as well as their cross-linked water soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as for example quaternized chitosane, possibly micro crystalline distributed, condensation products of dihalogen alkyls, such as e.g. dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, such as e.g. bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar-gum, such as e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quatemised ammonium salt polymers, such as e.g. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.
Chitosan and Chitosan Derivatives
In a preferable embodiment of the invention the preparations in addition to glucans, for further improvement of the hair cosmetic preparations of the polymers, contain chitosans and/or chitosan derivatives. Chitosans are biopolymers and belong to the group of hydrocolloids. From a chemical point of view they are partial deacetylated chitins with different molecular weights, and contain the following - idealized - monomer module:
In contrast to most of the hydrocolloids, which are negatively charged in the range of biological pH-values, chitosans are under these conditions cationic biopolymers. The positively charged chitosans can interact with opposite charged surfaces and are therefore used in cosmetic hair and body care agents as well as in pharmaceutical preparations (see
Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry
, 5th Ed., vol. A6, Weinheim, Verlag Chemie, 1986, p. 231-332). A summary of these subjects are also published in for example B. Gesslein et al., HAPPI 27, 57 (1990), O. Skaugrud in
Drug Cosm. Ind
. 148. 24 (1991) and E. Onsoyen et al. in
Seifen-Öle-Fette-Wachse
117, 633 (1991). By the production of chitosan chitin is used as starting material, preferably the shell residues of crust animals, which are available in large amounts as cheap raw materials. The chitin is thereby, using a method which first was described by Hackmann et al., usually first deprotonated by addition of bases, demineralized by addition of mineral acids and at last deacetylated by addition of strong bases, whereby the molecular weights can be distributed over a broad spectrum. Corresponding methods ar

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