Cosmetic compostions based upon N-hydroxybutyl-chitosans, N-hydr

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Effervescent or pressurized fluid containing – Organic pressurized fluid

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536 20, 424 70, 8405, 8406, 132208, A61K 706, A61K 708, A61K 713, C08B 3708

Patent

active

049312715

DESCRIPTION:

BRIEF SUMMARY
The invention is directed to cosmetic compositions for treating hair or skin, containing new macromolecular compounds derived from chitosan, which are used in a suitable cosmetic base.
The invention is directed, in addition, to new N-hydroxybutyl-chitosans and to a process for the production thereof.
The use of cation-active polymers, particularly polymers having quaternary ammonium groups, as conditioning agents in cosmetic compositions, particularly for the treatment of hair, is already known. Because of a reciprocal action between their ammonium groups and the anionic groups of the hair, the cation-active polymers have a great affinity with keratin fibers.
It has been established that the use of such cation-active polymers in such cosmetic compositions results in numerous advantages: the disentanglement of hair and its treatment are facilitated; furthermore, the hair obtains springiness and luster. However, because of this affinity with keratin, these polymers tend to collect on the hair after repeated use so that the hair becomes heavier, which is ultimately undesirable.
In addition, there are problems with synthetic polymers due to the physiological effect of monomer traces which may possible be present and which are difficult to remove from the polymer.
Attempts have already been made to overcome the aforementioned disadvantages in that water-soluble salts of chitosan, a polyglucose amine which is producible by means of deacetylation of chitin, are used in such cosmetic compositions. In this context, reference is made to the Applicant's European Patent No. 0 002 506 and the Applicant's German Patent No. 26 27 419.
Just as in the multiplicity of cation-active polymers with quaternary grouping, chitosan also frequently has the disadvantage that its compatibility with the anion-active surface-active agents which are usually used in cosmetic compositions for treating hair, particularly in shampoos, is poor. Therefore, it is necessary to put the chitosan to use in separate treatments, namely before and/or after the shampooing.
Moreover, the chitosan proves to be practically insoluble in neutral and alkaline media, so that it is impossible to use it, for example, in alkaline permanent wave compositions or hair dye compositions.
By using glycidyl chitosans, according to the Applicant's DE-OS 32 23 423, instead of chitosan salts, the aforementioned disadvantages can be avoided. However, the reaction of chitosan with glycide is very cost-intensive, since glycide is an expensive raw material which is not producible on an industrial scale.
However, the aforementioned chitosans, or chitosan derivatives, have a further disadvantage, since they are scarcely, or not at all, soluble in organic solvents. It would therefore be a great advantage if such derivatives were soluble in organic solvents so as to enlarge, accordingly, the possibilities of use in cosmetic compositions.
Therefore, it is the object of the invention to provide inexpensive compositions with which the aforementioned disadvantages can be avoided.
In continuing investigations with chitosan and the compounds derived therefrom, it has now been found that certain chitosan derivatives, especially N-hydroxybutyl chitosans, also do not have the aforementioned disadvantages and can be obtained, in addition, in a substantially less expensive manner than the previously known glycidyl chitosans. Moreover, such derivatives are also soluble in organic solvents, such as ethanol and isopropanol, for example, and thus enable the production of anhydrous, e.g. alcoholic, solutions.
In contrast to the synthetic polymers with final residual monomer contents, these N-hydroxybutyl-chitosans are harmless physiologically and are biologically degradable. Because of their film characteristics, their solubility in organic solvents, and their thickening action and compatibility with anionic surfactants, they can be used not only as new, interesting raw materials for cosmetics, but also in pharmaceutics, as flocculants and thickeners in the treatment of waste water, as finishin

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