Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions – Polymer containing
Reexamination Certificate
1997-09-05
2002-05-28
Webman, Edward J. (Department: 1617)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Live hair or scalp treating compositions
Polymer containing
C424S061000, C424S069000, C525S452000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06395265
ABSTRACT:
The present invention relates to novel cosmetic or dermatological compositions with film-forming properties, containing solutions of specific multiblock ionizable polycondensates, as well as to various possible uses thereof, in particular in the field of cosmetic (i.e. topical) treatment of the skin, the hair, the nails and other keratin substances.
It is common practice in cosmetic formulations, in particular in hair products (shampoos, conditioners, styling or treating lotions or gels, lacquers or lotions for shaping, setting, fixing, and the like the hair) or in make-up products (such as, for example, nail varnish, mascaras, eyeliners and the like), to use a variable proportion, depending on the nature and destination of the formulation, of at least one film-forming substance which makes it possible, or is intended to give the support on which it is applied (that is to say, here, one of the surface parts of the body, such as head hair, eyelashes, body hair, skin, nails, etc.) certain improved characteristics. Thus, for example, in the specific case of treating a head of hair, more staying power and more softness of the hair are especially sought by this technique, whereas in the more specific case of the nails, it is mainly sought to obtain a protective, shiny and hard film which adheres fully to the nails.
In order to be satisfactory in cosmetic applications, a film-forming resin needs to have certain restricting characteristics or properties, among which mention may be made more particularly, in a non-limiting manner, firstly, of a very good affinity/compatibility/harmlessness with respect to various keratin substances (skin, hair and the like), next, good film-forming properties relative to these substances (quality and uniformity of the film deposited), and, lastly, good remanence properties (adhesiveness, solidity), that is to say that it must be difficult to remove from its support by simple washing with water or using detergents (shampoos) for example. In the case of nail varnishes, the film must also have good mechanical abrasion strength. In general, it will be noted that it is often difficult in practice to find a film-forming substance which is capable of effectively satisfying several, or all, of the various cosmetic applications which may be envisaged for this substance (problem of the acceptable compromise).
In certain respects, the film-forming substances known to date, and in particular those mentioned above, are poorly suitable for obtaining compositions having good cosmetic properties, on account, in particular, of an appreciable lack of remanence, in particular of water-resistance.
Another problem lies in the fact that the films thus obtained, in particular in the context of applications of mascara or hair type, are not sufficiently shiny. This sheen is also only poorly remanent, that is to say that it disappears quickly under the action of external agents (highly water-sensitive in particular).
However, the sheen, as well as the remanence of this sheen, nowadays constitutes a particularly desired property in the field of cosmetics.
It is thus seen that there is currently a strong need in the state of the art to have available cumulating film-forming compositions, for a varied field of possible applications (hair, eyelashes, skin, nails, etc.), all the advantages generally desired or desirable in cosmetics, namely, in particular, harmlessness towards keratin substances, ease of application and of use, production of thin and uniform protective deposits, remanence of the adhesive properties, provision and remanence of sheen properties, provision of softness and lubrication, rigidity and abrasion-resistance.
In order to meet this need, it has been proposed to use mixtures of polymers which make it possible to combine all of these properties, in particular mixtures of polyorganosiloxanes (silicones) with non-silicone polymers. The reason for this is that it is known that silicones provide excellent surface properties, leading to good lubrication, good sheen and a soft feel without providing fatty substances. These polymers do not have good mechanical properties for ensuring good film-formation; they thus need to be combined with other polymers which provide mechanical properties. Polyorganopolysiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, are incompatible with most of the non-silicone polymers which provide mechanical properties.
To overcome these drawbacks, French patent No. 2,708,199 teaches the possibility of using a stable aqueous suspension consisting of fine, solid, generally spherical particles of polysiloxane/polyurethane and/or polyurea multiblock ionic polycondensate, these particles having been obtained by placing the said polycondensate in the pre-synthesized state in dispersion in a suitable aqueous phase. This type of dispersion of water-insoluble polymer is called a “pseudo-latex”. However, these pseudo-latices have certain drawbacks.
These ionizable polycondensates in aqueous suspension do not make it possible to potentiate the desired conjugation of the properties provided, on the one hand, by the silicone segments and, on the other hand, by the polyurethane and/or polyurea segments. This addivity of the properties can only be optimized if good phase separation between the silicone segments and the polyurethane and/or polyurea segments takes place during drying, such that there is, on the one hand, in the solid state, an actual stratification of the silicone segments at the surface of the matrix of the deposit consisting of the polyurethane and/or polyurea segments—it is, in fact, at the interface of this matrix with air that the specific properties of the silicones will be manifested—and, on the other hand, such that the silicone segments are assembled inside the matrix of the deposit in the form of a dispersed phase.
It is very difficult to obtain, with pseudo-latices consisting of polysiloxane/polyurethane and/or polyurea ionizable polycondensates, good phase separation leading to this stratification of the silicone segments at the surface of the deposit and the formation of a silicone phase inside the deposit, and more particularly when the lengths of the polysiloxane and/or polyurethane and/or polyurea sequences are short. The result of this is that the addivity of the properties as defined above which is obtained by these pseudo-latices still remains insufficient.
Thus, after considerable research conducted in this matter, the Applicant has now found, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that it is possible to improve this phase separation substantially and consequently to potentiate the addivity of the surface properties provided by the silicones and the mechanical and/or adhesion properties provided by the polyurethanes and/or polyureas, by using solutions or emulsions of these same polysiloxane/polyurethane and/or polyurea multiblock ionizable polycondensates dissolved in an aqueous, organic or aqueous-organic solvent system.
Furthermore, the polycondensates in solution of the invention exhibit better remanence of the deposit to the action of water or of surfactant solutions (shampoos) than pseudo-latices consisting of the same polycondensates.
In accordance with the present invention, novel cosmetic compositions are therefore now proposed, which are characterized in that they comprise, in a cosmetically acceptable support, at least one solution or one emulsion of at least one multiblock polycondensate whose chain consists of the repetition of at least one polysiloxane block and of at least one polyurethane and/or polyurea block; the said polyurethane and/or polyurea block also including ionizable groups and the said polycondensate being dissolved in an aqueous, organic or aqueous-organic solvent system.
The expression “ionizable group” is understood to refer to any group which may be ionized by a neutralization reaction of an acidic or basic function borne by the said group, or a quaternization reaction of a tertiary amine function borne by the said group, and which may thus form an anionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic group.
Mondet Jean
Mougin Nathalie
Finnegan Henderson Farabow Garrett & Dunner L.L.P.
L'Oreal
Webman Edward J.
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