Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Preparations characterized by special physical form – Cosmetic – antiperspirant – dentifrice
Reexamination Certificate
2000-02-15
2003-01-28
Hartley, Michael G. (Department: 1617)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Preparations characterized by special physical form
Cosmetic, antiperspirant, dentifrice
C424S059000, C510S122000, C510S125000, C514S183000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06511669
ABSTRACT:
The present invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one anionic surfactant chosen from hydroxyalkyl ether carboxylic acid and salts thereof, and at least one cationic polymer with a cationic charge density of greater than or equal to 2 meq/g.
It is common practice to use detergent compositions (shampoos or shower gels) based essentially on standard surfactants, in particular of anionic, nonionic and/or amphoteric type, but more particularly of anionic type, to clean and/or wash the hair and/or the skin. These compositions are applied to wet hair or skin, and the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands removes, after rinsing with water, the various types of soiling initially present on the hair or skin.
Admittedly, these base compositions have good washing power, but the intrinsic cosmetic properties associated with them remain fairly low, in particular on account of the fact that the relatively aggressive nature of such a cleaning treatment can lead, in the long run, to more or less pronounced damage to the keratin fibers. This damage can be associated in particular with the gradual removal of the lipids or proteins contained in or at the surface of these substances.
Thus, in order to improve the cosmetic properties of the above detergent compositions, and more particularly of those which are intended to be applied to sensitized hair (i.e. hair which has been damaged or made brittle, in particular under the chemical action of atmospheric agents and/or hair treatments such as permanent-3waving, dyeing or bleaching operations), it is now common practice to introduce into these compositions additional cosmetic agents known as conditioners, which are mainly intended to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by various treatments or attacking factors to which hair fibers may be subjected more or less repeatedly. These conditioners can also improve the cosmetic behavior of natural hair.
The conditioners most commonly used to date in shampoos are cationic polymers, silicones and/or silicone derivatives, which give washed, dry or wet hair enhanced ease of disentangling, softness and smoothness compared with that which can be obtained with the corresponding cleaning compositions from which they are absent.
However, despite the progress recently made in the field of shampoos based on cationic and/or silicone polymers, these shampoos are not really entirely satisfactory, such that there is still currently a great need to have available novel products which have better performance qualities as regards one or more of the cosmetic properties mentioned above.
Anionic surfactants of hydroxyalkyl ether carboxylic type have already been recommended in detergent cosmetic compositions. They have been described, for example, in patent applications J63280798, J08268487 and J08269482, all of which are incorporated herein by reference.
Compositions for washing the hair using these surfactants alone do not give satisfactory cosmetic properties. One object of the invention is thus to propose detergent cosmetic compositions which have improved cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of disentangling, smoothness and softness of the hair. It has been discovered that these aims can be achieved with a combination of specific cationic polymers and an anionic surfactant of hydroxyalkyl ether carboxylic type.
These novel compositions allow better application of these cationic polymers onto keratin substances (in particular the hair) than does a composition containing standard anionic surfactants such as alkyl ether carboxylate salts, without having a greasy look or feel. The compositions in accordance with the invention give keratin substances, in particular the hair, a noteworthy treating effect which is manifested in particular by ease of disentangling, as well as by the provision of volume, lightness, smoothness, softness, suppleness and hold without any lank sensation.
One subject of the invention is thus a detergent cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one non-cellulosic cationic polymer whose cationic charge density is greater than or equal to 2 meq/g, and at least one anionic surfactant chosen from 2-hydroxyalkyl ether carboxylic acid and or salts thereof.
Another subject of the invention relates to a process for treating keratin substances, such as the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying cosmetic compositions according to the invention to the said substances.
Another subject of the invention is the use of surfactants chosen from 2-hydroxyalkyl ether carboxylic acid and salts thereof in or for the manufacture of detergent cosmetic compositions comprising at least one non-cellulosic cationic polymer and whose cationic charge density is greater than or equal to 2 meq/g.
According to the present invention, the expression “keratin substances” generally refers to the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the skin, the nails, mucous membranes or the scalp, and more particularly the hair.
Various subjects of the invention will now be described in detail. All of the meanings and definitions of the compounds used in the present invention given below are valid for all the subjects of the invention.
The anionic surfactants chosen from 2-hydroxyalkyl ether carboxylic acid and salts thereof can have the following structure:
in which:
R
1
denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and
X denotes hydrogen or an inorganic or organic cation, such as, for example, those obtained from an alkali metal (for example Na
+
or K
+
), NH
4
+
, ammoniums obtained from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine or citrulline, or alternatively from amino alcohols such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, glucamine, N-methylglucamine or 3-amino-1,2-propanediol.
2-Hydroxyalkyl ether carboxylic acid and salts thereof in one embodiment of the invention are compounds of formula (I) in which R
1
more particularly denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Even more particularly, R
1
denotes a C
8
-C
18
radical or a mixture of C
8
-C
18
radicals derived from coconut oil.
Among the surfactants of formula (I), mention may be made of the product sold under the name Beaulight Shaa by the company Sanyo.
According to the invention, the anionic surfactant chosen from 2-hydroxyalkyl ether carboxylic acid and salts thereof can represent from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final composition.
The cationic polymers that can be used according to the invention have a cationic charge density of greater than or equal to 2 meq/g, preferably between 2 and 8.5 meq/g.
The cationic polymers with a cationic charge density of greater than or equal to 2 meq/g which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from any of those already known per se, i.e. in particular from those described in patent application EP-A-0 337 354 and in French patent applications FR-A-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611, 2 470 596 and 2 519 863, all or which are incorporated herein by reference.
Even more generally, for the purposes of the present invention, the expression “cationic polymer” denotes any polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups.
The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those that contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that can either form part of the main polymer chain or can be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto.
The cationic polymers used generally have a number-average molecular mass of between approximately 500 and approximately 5×10
6
, and preferably between approximately 10
3
and approximately 3×10
6
.
Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of polymers o
Cauwet-Martin Daniele
Garnier Nathalie
Restle Serge
Finnegan Henderson Farabow Garrett & Dunner L.L.P.
Hartley Michael G.
L'Oreal (S.A.)
Willis Michael A.
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