Cosmetic compositions comprising a film-forming polymer a...

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Preparations characterized by special physical form – Cosmetic – antiperspirant – dentifrice

Reexamination Certificate

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C424S061000, C424S070100, C514S506000, C514S529000

Reexamination Certificate

active

06280756

ABSTRACT:

The present invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions. More particularly, the invention relates to cosmetic and care compositions comprising at least one film-forming polymer. These novel compositions exhibit improved properties with respect to the prior art, in particular with regard to the fluidity of the composition, the ease of application, the homogeneity of the film, the speed of drying, the resistance of the film to wear, the gloss, the resistance to yellowing, the stability to light and the stability to heat.
Film-forming polymers are essential constituents of numerous cosmetic forms, such as, for example, nail varnishes, lacquers and mascaras. They make it possible to deposit the make-up in the form of a film on the surface of the skin, the hair and/or the nails. Normally, at least one so-called plasticizing compound is added to the film-forming polymer, the role of this plasticizing compound being to confer flexibility on the make-up film. This is because the use of a film-forming polymer alone gives a stiff, brittle and fragile film which rapidly wears away. However, the addition of a plasticizer can sometimes lead to other disadvantages, such as yellowing, instability of the composition towards light and/or towards heat, lack of gloss or lack of fluidity.
Indeed, nail varnish compositions comprising N-ethyl-o,p-toluenesulphonamide (mixture of the ortho and para isomers) as the plasticizing agent, in combination with a film-forming polymer, are known, in particular from European Patent Application EP-154,679. However, such a combination exhibits the disadvantage of rapidly yellowing and of being unstable when it is exposed to light and/or to heat.
The use of a citrate, such as, for example, tributyl acetylcitrate, as a plasticizing agent in combination with a film-forming polymer is also known. To this end, reference may be made to U.S. Pat. No. 5,227,155. However, such compositions lack gloss and fluidity and are difficult to apply.
The present invention is targeted at providing a make-up composition exhibiting improved properties with respect to the prior art.
The inventors have discovered, surprisingly, that the combination of a film-forming polymer with an ester of citric acid corresponding to the formula (I) (hereinbelow) and of a plasticizing compound of formula (II) (hereinbelow) makes it possible to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art.
The present invention relates to a novel composition comprising the combination of:
(a) at least one film-forming polymer;
(b) at least one citric acid ester of formula (I):
in which:
R
1
, R
2
and R
3
independently represent H or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C
1
-C
30
alkyl chain or a saturated or unsaturated cyclic C
3
-C
30
alkyl chain, wherein at least one of R
1
, R
2
and R
3
is not a hydrogen atom, and
R
4
represents a hydrogen atom or an R′
4
—CO— group in which R′
4
represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C
1
-C
8
alkyl group or a saturated or unsaturated cyclic C
3
-C
8
alkyl group; and
(c) at least one compound of formula (II):
in which:
&agr; represents an ortho or para position of the phenyl group and R and R′ independently represent a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C
1
-C
6
alkyl group or a saturated or unsaturated cyclic C
3
-C
6
alkyl group.
The combination according to the invention, when it is incorporated in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, spreads over the skin, mucous membranes, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair or nails with great ease and makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous film which rapidly dries and which exhibits improved resistance and improved gloss with respect to the compositions of the prior art. Such a composition withstands yellowing and is stable towards light and towards heat.
The film-forming polymers that can be used in accordance with the present invention can be selected from:
keratin derivatives, such as keratin hydrolysates and sulphonic keratins;
anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic chitosan or chitin derivatives;
cellulose derivatives, such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethyl-hydroxyethylcellulose or carboxymethylcellulose, as well as quaternized cellulose derivatives; mention may in particular be made of nitrocelluloses of the “RS” or “SS” type and in particular nitrocellulose type ¼“RS”, nitrocellulose type ½“RS”, nitrocellulose type ½“SS” and nitrocellulose type ¾“RS”;
acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates;
resins of the acrylic, styrene, acrylate-styrene and vinyl type;
polyvinylpyrrolidones and vinyl copolymers, such as copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of maleic anhydride or the copolymer of vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid;
polyester polymers, alkyd resins and/or anionic polyester amides which are dispersible in water comprising monomers carrying an —SO
3
M functional group, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH
4
+
or a metal ion, such as, for example, an Na
+
, Li
+
, K
+
, Mg
2+
, Ca
2+
, Cu
2+
, Fe
2+
or Fe
3+
ion. Mention may in particular be made of the polymers described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,734,874, 4,233,196 and 4,304,901, the disclosures of which are specifically incorporated by reference herein;
polyesters containing a fatty chain, polyamides and epoxyester resins;
polyurethane polymers, in particular anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethanes-acrylics, polyurethanes-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyesters-polyurethanes, polyethers-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyureas-polyurethanes, and their mixtures;
optionally modified polymers of natural origin, such as:
arabic gums, guar gum, xanthan derivatives or karaya gum;
alginates and carrageenates;
glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives;
shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis or copals;
resins of the arylsulfonamide-formaldehyde or arylsulfonamide-epoxy type, in particular resins known under the tradenames SANTOLITE MHP® and SANTOLITE MS 80%®; and
synthetic aqueous dispersions, such as, for example, dispersions of poly(vinyl acetate), of polyurethane, of acrylic polymers or copolymers and of poly(vinyl acetate) copolymers.
The compounds of formula (I):
in which:
R
1
, R
2
and R
3
independently represent H or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C
1
-C
30
alkyl chain or a saturated or unsaturated cyclic C
3
-C
30
alkyl chain, and wherein at least one of R
1
, R
2
and R
3
is not a hydrogen atom, and
R
4
represents a hydrogen atom or an R′
4
—CO— group in which R′, represents a C
1
-C
8
alkyl group; are compounds known to persons skilled in the art. Mention may in particular be made of triethyl citrate, tributyl citrate, triethyl acetylcitrate and tri(2-ethylhexyl) acetylcitrate.
The compounds of formula (II) are compounds also well known to persons skilled in the art. Mention may in particular be made of N-ethyl-o,p-toluenesulfonamide (mixture of the ortho and para isomers), which is available commercially, for example from the company Monsanto, under the tradename SANTICIZER 8.
Advantageously, in the combination according to the invention, the film-forming polymer (a), the compound of formula (I)(b), and the compound of formula (II)(c), are present in amounts which satisfy the relationship:
1<(
a
)/[(
b
)+(
c
)]<4
and more preferably still the relationship:
1.5<(
a
)/[(
b
)+(
c
)]<2.5
Advantageously, the compound of formula (I)(b) and the compound of formula (II)(c) are present in amounts which satisfy the relationship:
0.3<(
b
)/(
c
)<3
and more preferably still, the relationship:
0.8<(
b
)/(
c
)<1.5
Another subject of the invention is a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprising the combination described above in a cosmetically and/or dermatologically acceptable vehicle.
The cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions according to the invention are those relating to making up the eyelashes,

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