Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Face or body powders for grooming – adorning – or absorbing
Reexamination Certificate
2000-03-03
2003-02-11
Page, Thurman K. (Department: 1615)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Face or body powders for grooming, adorning, or absorbing
C424S063000, C424S064000, C424S401000, C424S489000, C424S502000, C514S844000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06517820
ABSTRACT:
The present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition in the form of a powder, for example a loose, compacted, pressed or cast powder, comprising at least one specific ester.
It is known to use in a formulation of make-up powders containing, on the one hand, a particulate phase comprising in particular pigments and fillers and, on the other hand, as a binder a fatty phase comprising fatty substances. The fatty phase is intended to confer a degree of density on the finished product, to give softness and an emollient property to the make-up product and to promote its adhesion to the skin.
The formulation of binding agents in powders, in particular in compact powders, raises numerous difficulties. These difficulties result because the final composition must be sufficiently homogeneous and compact to exhibit good suitability for removal and to avoid fragmentation caused in particular by impacts.
It is possible to use, as a binder, a mixture of mineral and vegetable oils in combination with esters. However, the products comprising these esters can result in products which lack softness and can even result in poor dispersion of the pigmentary phase.
It is also possible to use silicone oils, which can contribute slip, softness and ease of spreading. However, the properties of hold of the make-up and of impact strength in the products using silicone oils are mediocre.
Finally, some perfluorinated oils, in particular perfluoropolyethers, are well known as contributing softness to cosmetic compositions. In such a composition, however, the formulator is then confronted with problems of insolubility of these oils in conventional hydrocarbonaceous oils or in silicone oils. This insolubility results in the comprising perfluorinated oils exhibit mediocre properties of impact strength. Some of these oils can also exhibit the disadvantage of a poor dispersion of the pigmentary phase. In such a poor dispersion, the color contributed by the pigment is relatively low in intensity and this can bring about a “white effect”, which is undesirable, aesthetically speaking.
Furthermore, it happens that compositions in the form of a powder are subject to the phenomenon of migration. This is because it has been found that some compositions have a tendency to spread inside the fine lines and/or wrinkles of the skin, in the case of face powders, or into the folds of the eyelid, in the case of eyeshadows. There has also been observed, in the case in particular of eyeshadows, the appearance of streaks in the make-up generated by the movements of the eyelids. Such compositions exhibit an unsatisfactory hold.
All these phenomena result in an unsightly effect which it is clearly desirable to avoid.
The inventors have found, unexpectedly, that the use as a powder binder of at least one specific oily ester, which ester is composed of saturated and branched (C
24
to C
28
) fatty acids or fatty alcohols, makes it possible to obtain a powder which not only exhibits excellent cosmetic properties but which furthermore exhibits an improved hold.
The present invention is therefore directed to a cosmetic composition in the form of a powder comprising a particulate phase and a fatty phase, characterized in that the fatty phase comprises at least one fatty acid ester or fatty alcohol ester, the carbonaceous chain of the fatty acid or alcohol being saturated and branched, and comprising 24 to 28 carbon atoms.
The compositions in the form of a powder thus obtained exhibit an excellent hold. They do not transfer and do not migrate into the folds of the skin. They also exhibit an excellent dispersion of the pigments. The composition obtained is very homogeneous and it remains homogenous even after application to the skin, this being the case for several hours.
The compositions according to the invention also exhibit excellent cosmetic properties: they adhere sufficiently to the skin but not too much; they are very soft; and they are easily applied.
Furthermore, these compositions are easy to compact, they readily disintegrate, and they exhibit good hardness. In particular, they exhibit good cohesion of the product in the dish while allowing satisfactory disintegration of the product. In the case of compacted powders, for example, they exhibit outstanding strength when dropped and the percentage of loss of product after being dropped is very low.
In another embodiment, the present invention is directed to a cosmetic process for making up or caring for the skin, in particular of the body, or mucous membranes (interior of the lower eyelids) of human beings comprising the application, to the skin, body or mucous membranes, of the composition as defined above.
In a further embodiment, the present invention is directed to the use of at least one fatty acid ester or fatty alcohol ester, the carbonaceous chain of the fatty acid or alcohol being saturated and branched, and comprising 24 to 28 carbon atoms, in a cosmetic composition in the form of a powder with the aim of improving the hold on the skin of the composition.
In yet another embodiment, the invention is directed to the use of at least one fatty acid ester or fatty alcohol ester, the carbonaceous chain of the fatty acid or alcohol being saturated and branched, and comprising 24 to 28 carbon atoms, in the preparation of a composition in the form of a powder with the aim of improving the hold on the skin of the composition.
In another embodiment, the present invention is directed to the use of at least one fatty acid ester or fatty alcohol ester, the carbonaceous chain of the fatty acid or alcohol being saturated and branched, and comprising 24 to 28 carbon atoms, in a composition in the form of a powder, especially cosmetic and more particularly compact, with the aim of improving the impact strength of the composition.
The compositions according to the invention especially find a particularly advantageous application in the field of making up and/or caring for the skin and mucous membranes. The term “mucous membrane” is understood by those of ordinary skill in the art, and includes, in particular the interior part of the lower eyelid. Thus, the invention finds a very specific application in the field of products for making up the face and the skin, such as eyeshadows, face and body powders, foundations, concealers or make-up products for the body.
Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become apparent on reading the detailed description which will follow.
The compositions of the invention are cosmetic powders. They generally comprise at least 70% by weight, preferably from 77 to 99.9% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, of particulate or pulverulent phase.
The compositions of the invention also comprise as a binder a fatty phase comprising fatty substances which facilitate the adhesion to the skin of the pulverulent compounds and their cohesion to each other in the final composition. This fatty phase can represent up to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 23% by weight and more preferably from 3 to 20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
The fatty phase of the compositions according to the invention comprises at least one fatty acid ester or fatty alcohol ester, the carbonaceous chain of the fatty acid or alcohol being saturated and branched and comprising 24 to 28 carbon atoms. The word ester, according to the invention, means a monoester or a polyester. The term “polyester” is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, a compound comprising more than one ester functional group, such as, for example, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and the like. The ester according to the invention is preferably chosen from polyesters. The ester according to the invention preferably comprises at least 2 branched (C
24
to C
28
) chains. The word branched means at least one pendant hydrocarbonaceous chain comprising in particular from 1 to 14 carbon atoms.
The ester of the invention therefore comprises a saturated (C
24
to C
28
) fatty alcohol or fatty acid residue, in p
Channavajjala Lakshmi S.
Finnegan Henderson Farabow Garrett & Dunner LLP
L'Oreal (S.A.)
LandOfFree
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