Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions
Reexamination Certificate
1999-06-14
2001-09-25
Dudash, Diana (Department: 1619)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Live hair or scalp treating compositions
C424S070160, C424S070220, C424S401000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06294158
ABSTRACT:
The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing, in combination, at least one anionic polymer and an acrylic terpolymer, as well as to the use of these compositions for the treatment of keratinous material, in particular the skin and the hair.
Anionic polymers are generally used for their fixing properties, in particular for formulating styling and fixing hair gels.
It is advantageous to formulate, for haircare and hairstyling, hair compositions containing anionic polymers, which have a high viscosity and are in a thick gel form which spreads well.
For this, use is generally made of thickening and/or gelling polymers. However, the introduction of anionic polymers into thickeners often leads to problems of fluidization and of loss of clarity of the support, and cosmetic performance levels obtained are sometimes insufficient for care and styling products.
Thickening and/or gelling polymers are known which contain in their chain a hydrophilic part and a hydrophobic part consisting of a fatty chain, such as the product “Pemulen TR1” sold by the company Goodrich or the “Acrysol” polymers sold by the company Rohm & Haas. The polymer “Pemulen TR1”, used in combination with anionic polymers, does not lead to a gel of satisfactory texture or transparency and does not give satisfactory cosmetic results, in particular as regards the fixing power, the ease of disentangling, the softness and the feel. The polymer “Acrysol 44”, used in combination with an anionic polymer, leads to a fluid and cloudy gel.
The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that by using a novel family of thickening and/or gelling polymers and by combining them with anionic polymers, it is possible to obtain cosmetic formulations which have a satisfactory viscosity at a relatively low pH, which are not pasty or greasy, which spread well on the skin and the hair and which give the hair good properties of softness, feel and easy disentangling while at the same time having good styling and/or fixing properties.
The subject of the present invention is thus cosmetic compositions for the treatment of keratinous material containing, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous support, at least one anionic polymer and an acrylic terpolymer which will be defined in greater detail later in the description.
This polymer makes it possible in particular to prepare leave-in or rinse-out, aqueous-organic or aqueous compositions containing cosmetically acceptable solvents, ranging from gelled products to sticks or solid tubes.
The advantages of this terpolymer are that it is stable in electrolytic medium and has very good thickening power at a pH equal to or above 5.5, making it possible to achieve a good level of viscosity and to be able to use high concentrations of alcohol.
The acrylic terpolymer used in accordance with the invention is soluble or swellable in alkalis. It is characterized in that it comprises:
a) about 20 to 70% by weight, preferably 25 to 55% by weight, of a carboxylic acid containing &agr;,&bgr;-monoethylenic unsaturation;
b) about 20 to 80% by weight, preferably 30 to 65% by weight, of a non-surfactant monomer containing monoethylenic unsaturation, which is different from a), and
c) about 0.5 to 60% by weight, preferably 10 to 50% by weight, of a nonionic urethane monomer which is the product of reaction of a monohydric nonionic surfactant with a monoisocyanate containing mono-ethylenic unsaturation.
The carboxylic acid containing &agr;, &bgr;-mono-ethylenic unsaturation a) can be chosen from many acids and in particular acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid. Methacrylic acid is preferred. A large proportion of acid is essential in order to give a polymer structure which dissolves and gives a thickening effect by reaction with an alkaline compound such as sodium hydroxide, alkanolamines, aminomethylpropanol or aminomethylpropanediol.
The terpolymer should also contain a large proportion, indicated above, of a monomer b) containing monoethylenic unsaturation which has no surfactant properties. The preferred monomers are those which give polymers that are water-insoluble when they are homopolymerized and are illustrated by C
1
-C
4
alkyl acrylates and methacrylates such as methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate and butyl acrylate, or corresponding methacrylates. The monomers more particularly preferred are methyl and ethyl acrylates. Other monomers which can be used are styrene, vinyltoluene, vinyl acetate, acrylonitrile and vinylidene chloride. Non-reactive monomers are preferred, such monomers being those in which the single ethylenic group is the only group which is reactive under the polymerization conditions. However, monomers which contain groups that are reactive under the action of heat can be used in certain situations, such as hydroxyethyl acrylate.
The monohydric nonionic surfactants used to obtain the nonionic urethane monomer c) are well known and are generally alkoxylated hydrophobic compounds containing an alkylene oxide forming the hydrophilic part of the molecule. The hydrophobes generally consist of an aliphatic alcohol or an alkylphenol in which a carbon chain containing at least six carbon atoms constitutes the hydrophobic part of the surfactant.
The preferred monohydric nonionic surfactants have the formula:
in which R is a C
6
-C
30
alkyl or C
8
-C
30
aralkyl group, R′ is a C
1
-C
4
alkyl group, n is an average number ranging approximately from 5 to 150 and m is an average number ranging approximately from 0 to 50, with the condition that n is at least as large as m and that n+m=5-150.
As preferred C
6
-C
30
alkyl groups, mention may be made of dodecyl and C
18
-C
26
alkyl radicals. As aralkyl groups, mention may be made more particularly of (C
8
-C
13
)alkylphenyl groups. The preferred group R′ is the methyl group.
The monoisocyanate containing monoethylenic unsaturation which is used to form the nonionic urethane monomer c) can be chosen from a wide variety of compounds. A compound containing any copolymerizable unsaturation such as acrylic or methacrylic unsaturation can be used. An allylic unsaturation imparted by allyl alcohol can also be used. The preferred monoethylenic monoisocyanate is &agr;,&agr;-dimethyl-m-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate.
The acrylic terpolymer defined above is obtained by aqueous emulsion copolymerization of the components a), b) and c) which is entirely common and described in patent application EP-A-0,173,109.
As terpolymers which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the products of reaction of methacrylic acid as component a), of ethyl acrylate as component b) and of a nonionic urethane macromonomer as component c), having the following structure:
in which p′ ranges from 6 to 150 and is preferably equal to 30 and R
2
is a C
8
-C
13
alkyl radical, such as that described in Example 3 of patent application EP-A-0,173,109.
The preferred acrylic terpolymer used according to the invention is obtained from methacrylic acid as component a), methyl acrylate as component b) and a nonionic urethdne macromonomer as component c), having the following structure:
in which p ranges from 6 to 150 and R
1
is a C
18
-C
26
alkyl radical, preferably C
20
-C
24
linear, of plant origin, such as the docosyl radical.
The acrylic terpolymer is present in the cosmetic compositions of the invention in concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight.
According to the invention, any anionic polymer known per se can be used. Needless to say, one or more anionic polymers can be used.
Thus, the anionic polymers generally used are polymers containing groups derived from carboxylic, sulphonic or phosphoric acid and have a molecular weight of between about 500 and 5,000,000.
The carboxylic groups are provided by unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acid monomers such as those corresponding to the formula:
in which n is an integer from 0 to 10, A denotes a methylene group, optionally linked to the carbon atom of
Dudash Diana
Jacobson & Holman PLLC
L'Oreal
Yu Gina
LandOfFree
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