Cosmetic composition comprising at least a film-forming...

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Effervescent or pressurized fluid containing – Organic pressurized fluid

Reexamination Certificate

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C424S059000, C424S061000, C424S070100, C424S070900, C424S070110, C424S070120, C424S070140, C424S070210, C424S070220, C424S070270, C424S070310, C424S078030, C424S400000, C424S401000, C424SDIG001, C424SDIG002, C514S945000

Reexamination Certificate

active

06749837

ABSTRACT:

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one film-forming polymer (A) with specific characteristics and at least one additive (B), the latter being chosen such that the film formed on the hair after applying the cosmetic composition keeps its mechanical properties irrespective of the hygrometric conditions. The invention is also directed towards a process for shaping or holding the hair using this composition, as well as to its use for formulating cosmetic products such as lacquers, sprays or mousses, in order to hold or shape the hair style.
The compositions in accordance with the invention can be applied to the skin, the nails, the lips, the hair, the eyebrows or the eyelashes.
For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “styling composition” means compositions for holding and/or fixing the hair.
Among the haircare products for fixing the hair that are most widely available on the cosmetics market, mention may be made of compositions for spraying as an aerosol or in a pump-dispenser bottle such as lacquers, sprays or mousses, consisting essentially of a solution, usually an alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, and of a film-forming polymer which is soluble in water or in alcohol, mixed with various cosmetic adjuvants.
After application to the hair, these haircare products generally form a film which holds the hair style in the shape desired by the user. By appropriately selecting the polymers present in the composition, it is already possible to modify the mechanical properties of this film, such as the hardness, the elasticity or the elongation at break, and to do so under given humidity and temperature conditions.
However, these mechanical properties are generally dependent on the external conditions, such as the hygrometric conditions. Thus, a haircare composition which gives a film with satisfactory properties under certain humidity conditions can give poorer results under other humidity conditions, for example a soft film which does not hold the hair style.
There is thus a need to find formulations for holding and/or fixing the hair style whose mechanical performance qualities, in particular the elasticity and flexibility, are maintained irrespective of the hygrometric conditions, and in particular in passing from a humid atmosphere to a dry atmosphere.
The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that it is possible to overcome the technical problem mentioned above by using certain specific combinations of film-forming polymer(s) and additive(s)
A subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
(1) at least one film-forming polymer (A) chosen such that a film obtained by drying a mixture of this polymer (A) with ethanol or water, under a humid atmosphere, has a mechanical profile defined by at least:
(i) an elongation at break (&egr;
r
) of greater than or equal to 160%;
(ii) a recovery at 300 seconds (R
300
) of greater than or equal to 45%; and
(2) at least one additive (B) chosen from linear, non-oxyalkylenated, functionalized or unfunctionalized silicones, oxyalkylenated silicones, alkyl ethers of alkylene glycols or of polyalkylene glycols comprising C
1
to C
15
alkyl groups and polyurethanes comprising polyether and/or polycarbonate units.
Another subject of the present invention relates to a process for shaping or holding the hair style, comprising the use of this composition.
Yet another subject of the present invention relates to the use of at least one additive (B) chosen from linear, non-oxyalkylenated, functionalized or unfunctionalized silicones, oxyalkylenated silicones, alkyl ethers of alkylene glycols or of polyalkylene glycols comprising C
1
to C
15
alkyl groups, and polyurethanes comprising polyether and/or polycarbonate units, in cosmetic compositions, in order to maintain the mechanical profile of the film obtained by drying the said cosmetic composition, in passing from a humid atmosphere to a dry atmosphere.
One most particular subject of the invention relates to the use of at least one such additive (B) in a cosmetic composition comprising at least one film-forming polymer (A) chosen such that a film obtained by drying a mixture of the said composition, under humid or dry atmosphere, has a mechanical profile defined by at least:
(i) an elongation at break (&egr;
r
) of greater than or equal to 160%;
(ii) a recovery at 300 seconds (R
300
) of greater than or equal to 45%.
These characteristics are reflected by a maintenance of the flexibility and elasticity qualities of the films irrespective of the level of humidity. This explains the constancy of the results of holding on hair, independently of the level of humidity.
The polymers (A) that are particularly targeted by the present invention are those distributed by Goodrich under the name Avalure AC 315® and V29®.
For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “humid atmosphere” means, for example, the environment obtained by an atmosphere of air with a water vapour content of about 12 grams to 13 grams per kilogram of dry air, and the expression “dry atmosphere” means, for example, the environment obtained by an air atmosphere with a water vapour content of about 7 grams per kilogram of dry air.
For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “film obtained by drying under a humid or dry atmosphere” means the film obtained under these conditions starting with a mixture containing 6% active material (a.m.) of polymer A, alone or in the presence of the additive B, with ethanol or water, the amount of mixture being adapted to obtain in a Teflon matrix a film 500±50 &mgr;m thick. The drying is continued until the weight of the film no longer changes, which represents about 12 days. The polymers A that are soluble or partially soluble in ethanol are tested in ethanol. The other polymers are tested in water in soluble or dispersed form.
For the purposes of the present invention, the elongation at break and the degree of recovery are evaluated by means of the tests described below.
To carry out the tensile tests, the film is cut into rectangular samples 80 mm long and 15 mm wide.
The tests are carried out on a machine sold under the name Lloyd or sold under the name Zwick under the same conditions as for the drying, i.e. a water vapour content in the atmosphere of 13 grams per kilogram of dry air.
The samples are drawn at a speed of 20 mm/min and the distance between the jaws is 50±1 mm.
To determine the instantaneous recovery (R
i
), the following is performed:
the sample is drawn to 150% (&egr;
max
), i.e. to 1.5 times its initial length (I
0
)
the stress is removed by imposing a return speed equal to the tensile speed, i.e. 20 mm/min, and the elongation of the sample is measured as a percentage, after return at zero load (&egr;
i
).
The percentage instantaneous recovery (R
i
) is given by the formula below:
R
i
=((&egr;
max
−&egr;
i
)/&egr;
max
)×100
In order to determine the recovery at 300 seconds, the sample which has undergone the above operations is maintained at zero stress for a further 300 seconds and the percentage elongation (R
300
) is measured.
The percentage recovery at 300 seconds (R
300
) is given by the formula below:
R
300
=((&egr;
max
−&egr;
300
)/&egr;
max
)×100
For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “non-oxyalkylenated silicone” means any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear, branched or crosslinked structure and of variable molecular weight,which is volatile or non-volatile, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together via oxygen atoms, forming a siloxane bond ≡Si—O—Si≡, optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals being linked directly via a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms. The hydrocarbon-based radicals that are most common are alkyl radicals, especially C
1
-C

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