Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions
Reexamination Certificate
2000-02-03
2002-01-15
Dees, Jose′ G. (Department: 1616)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Live hair or scalp treating compositions
C424S401000, C424S070110, C424S070190, C424S070210, C424S070220, C510S130000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06338842
ABSTRACT:
The present invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions with improved properties, intended simultaneously for cleansing and conditioning keratin substances such as the hair, and comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous support, at least one anionic surfactant, at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one oil of polyolefin type, at least one cationic polymer and at least one salt or one alcohol which is water-soluble, the anionic surfactant/amphoteric surfactant weight ratio being less than or equal to 3. The invention also relates to the use of the compositions in the abovementioned cosmetic application.
It is common practice to use detergent compositions (such as shampoos) based essentially on conventional surfactants of anionic, nonionic and/or especially amphoteric type, but, more particularly, of anionic type, for cleansing and/or washing keratin substances, such as the hair. These compositions are applied to wet hair and the lather generated by massaging or friction with the hands allows, after rinsing with water, the removal of the various types of soiling initially present on the hair or the skin. Admittedly, these base compositions have good washing power, but the intrinsic cosmetic properties associated therewith are, nevertheless, fairly poor, especially on account of the fact that the relatively aggressive nature of such a cleansing treatment can lead in the long run to more or less pronounced damage to hair fibers, associated, in particular, with the gradual removal of the lipids or proteins contained in or at the surface of these fibers.
Thus, to improve the cosmetic properties of the above detergent compositions, and, more particularly, of those which are intended to be applied to sensitized hair (i.e., hair which has been damaged or embrittled, in particular, under the chemical action of atmospheric agents and/or of hair treatments such as permanent-waving, dyeing or bleaching operations), it is now common practice to introduce into these compositions additional cosmetic agents known as conditioners, intended mainly to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by the various treatments or aggressions to which hair fibers are subjected more or less repeatedly. Needless to say, these conditioners can also improve the cosmetic behavior of natural hair.
With this aim, it has already been proposed to use insoluble conditioners. These insoluble compounds have the drawback of being difficult to keep in uniform dispersion in the medium. To keep them in suspension, it has already been proposed to use derivatives of long-chain esters or ethers (pearlescent agents) or polysaccharides, such as xanthan gum (gelling agents). However, pearlescent agents have crystallization problems, occasionally entailing a change (increase) in the viscosity of the compositions over time; gelling agents also have drawbacks, namely, first, it is difficult to develop a lather with detergent compositions containing polysaccharides (poor starting of lathering) and, second, the compositions do not have a smooth texture and flow in blobs, a feature that users do not particularly appreciate. Furthermore, these various suspending agents do not give transparent or clear compositions.
One aim of the present invention is to propose compositions which do not have the drawbacks of the compositions mentioned above. Conditioners of polyolefin type must also be conveyed onto treated keratin substances to give them, depending on the application, softness, sheen and disentangling properties without giving rise to a greasy nature.
Thus, after considerable research conducted in this matter, the inventors have now found that by using a specific washing base, at least one oil or specific polyolefin type, at least one cationic polymer and at least one water-soluble salt or one water-soluble mono- or polyvalent alcohol, it is possible to obtain stable and transparent detergent compositions having excellent cosmetic properties, especially in terms of the disentangling and smoothing-out of treated hair, and having good properties of use, such as good intrinsic washing power and good foaming power. The industrial implementation is extremely easy and the cosmetic properties of the shampoos are excellent. The compositions obtained are stable during storage, without requiring the addition of an agent for dispersing and/or suspending the oil according to the invention. In the absence of additional insoluble compounds, the compositions obtained are also transparent. They can contain large amounts of oil of polyolefin type while at the same time retaining good transparency and having good cosmetic properties. The compositions according to the invention give the hair, after rinsing, a noteworthy treating effect, manifested, in particular, by an ease of disentangling, as well as smoothness, softness and suppleness without any greasy sensation.
One subject of the present invention is novel detergent and conditioning cosmetic compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, (A) a washing base comprising at least one anionic surfactant, at least one amphoteric surfactant, (B) at least one oil of polyolefin type with a molecular weight of less than 450, (C) at least one cationic polymer, (D) at least one water-soluble salt and/or at least one mono- or polyhydroxylated water-soluble alcohol, the anionic surfactant/amphoteric surfactant weight ratio being less than or equal to 3. A subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of the above compositions for cleansing and/or removing make-up from and/or conditioning keratin substances such as the hair and the skin, and a process for washing and conditioning keratin substances by applying the above compositions.
Additional features and advantages of the invention are set forth in the description that follows, and, in part, will be apparent from the description or may be learned from practice of the invention. Both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description of the invention are exemplary and explanatory only and are not restrictive of the claimed invention.
A-Washina Base:
The washing base comprises one or more anionic surfactants and one or more amphoteric surfactants.
(i) Anionic surfactant(s):
In the context of the present invention, their nature is not a genuinely critical feature. Thus, examples of anionic surfactants that can be used, alone or as mixtures, in the context of the present invention, include, in particular, (non-limiting list) of salts (in particular, alkaline salts, especially sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamidoether sulphates, alkylarylpolyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; alkyl sulphonates, alkyl phosphates, alkylamide sulphonates, alkylaryl sulphonates, a-olefin sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates; alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkylamide sulphosuccinates; alkyl sulphosuccinamates; alkyl sulphoacetates; alkyl ether phosphates; acyl sarcosinates; acyl isethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all of these various compounds, preferably containing from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants that can also be used, examples include fatty acid salts such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic and stearic acids, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid; acyl lactylates in which the acyl radical contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms. Use may also be made of slightly anionic surfactants, such as alkyl-D-galactosiduronic acids and their salts, and polyoxyalkylenated (C
6
-C
24
)alkyl ether carboxylic acids polyoxyalkylenated (C
6
-C
24
)alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C
6
-C
24
)alkyl amido ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular, those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof.
An anionic surfactant chosen from sodium, triethanolamine or ammonium (C
12
-C
14
)al
Garnier Nathalie
Restle Serge
Dees Jose′ G.
Finnegan, Henderson & Farabow, Garrett & Dunner, L.L.P
George Konata M.
L'Oreal (S.A.)
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