Organic compounds -- part of the class 532-570 series – Organic compounds – Carbohydrates or derivatives
Patent
1988-07-29
1990-05-08
Griffin, Ronald W.
Organic compounds -- part of the class 532-570 series
Organic compounds
Carbohydrates or derivatives
514 55, 514846, 514881, 424 45, 424 47, C08B 3708, A61K 3173, A61K 700, A61L 904
Patent
active
049239775
DESCRIPTION:
BRIEF SUMMARY
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the treatment of hair or skin said composition containing a novel macromolecular compounds derived from chitosane. These compounds are used in the form of a suitable cosmetic base.
The present invention also relates to N-hydroxy-propyl-isopropyl ether chitosanes.
In cosmetic compositions, particularly for the treatment of hair, the use of cationic polymers, in particular polymers containing quaternary ammonium groups, as conditioners is known. Because of an interaction between their ammonium groups and the anionic groups of the hair the cation-active polymers have a great affinity for the keratin fibre.
It has been found that the use of this type of cationic-active polymer in these cosmetic agents has numerous advantages namely the disentanglement of the hair and, furthermore, springiness and a lustrous effect are imparted to the hair. However, because of the affinity for the keratin these polymers tend to build-up on the hair upon repeated application so that the hair becomes heavier which is undesirable for the final effect.
Furthermore, in synthetic polymers there are encountered problems due to the physiological effect of possibly present monomer traces which can be removed from the polymer only with difficulties.
Attempts have already been made to remove the above-mentioned disadvantages by applying to these cosmetics water-soluble salts of chitosan, a poly-glucosamine that can be produced by deacetylation of chitin. In this connection reference is made to the applicant's EP-PS No. 0 002 506 and DE-PS No. 26 27 419.
In the same manner as in the majority of the cation-active polymers with quaternary grouping chitosan frequently also has the disadvantage that it is only slightly compatible with the anion-active surface-active agents conventionally used for the treatment of hair, particularly in shampoos. Therefore, it is necessary to allow the chitosan to have an effect in separate treatments, namely prior to and/or after the application of the shampoo. Furthermore, it has been found that chitosan is practically insoluble in a neutral and alkaline medium so that, for example, its application in alkaline permanent wave agents or hair dyes is not possible.
By applying glycidyl chitosans according to the applicant's DE-OS No. 32 23 423 instead of chitosan salts the above-mentioned disadvantages can actually be avoided but the reaction of chitosane with glycide presents a problem since glycide rapidly hydrolyzes in the presence of water.
The above-mentioned chitosans and chitosan derivatives have a further disadvantage, namely, in organic solvents they are not or only slightly soluble so that the possibilities of applying them in cosmetics are substantially restricted.
Therefore, the present invention provides anion surfactant-compatible chitosan derivatives which are suitable for the application in both aqueous cosmetics and anhydrous cosmetics.
On continuing the tests with chitosan and the compounds derived therefrom it has now been found that specific chitosan derivatives, i.e., particularly N-hydroxy-propyl-isopropyl ether chitosans, have a good compatibility with anion surfactants. These derivatives are soluble in organic solvents, as for example, ethanol and isopropanol, and thus allow the production of anhydrous, for example, alcoholic solutions.
Unlike synthetic polymers having finite residual monomer contents these N-hydroxy-propyl-isopropyl ether chitosans are physiologically harmless and biologically degradable. Because of their film properties, their alcohol-solubility and their thickener effect as well as their anion surfactant compatibility not only can they be applied as novel interesting raw materials for cosmetic compositions, but they can also be used in pharmacy, as flocculants and thickners in sewage treatment, as finishing agents and sizing agents in the textile industry and in paper making.
With N-hydroxy-propyl-isopropyl ether chitosan there can thus be produced a cosmetic composition for the treatment of hair and skin which
REFERENCES:
patent: 4528283 (1985-07-01), Lang et al.
Lang Gunther
Lenz Hans-Rudi
Maresch Gerhard
Griffin Ronald W.
Striker Michael J.
Wella Aktiengesellschaft
White Everett
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