Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions – Polymer containing
Reexamination Certificate
1995-04-17
2001-11-06
Page, Thurman K. (Department: 1615)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Live hair or scalp treating compositions
Polymer containing
C424S401000, C424S070100, C424S070110, C424S070120, C424S070140, C424S070190, C424S070310, C008S405000, C008S406000, C008S408000, C008S431000, C008S552000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06312677
ABSTRACT:
The present invention relates to a new cosmetic composition based on nonionic surfactants and cationic or amphoteric substantive polymers, to the use of this composition for the preparation of compositions for dyeing or bleaching keratinous fibers and to the dyeing or bleaching processes employing such compositions.
Compositions containing one or more nonionic surfactants, including especially polyoxyethylenated or polyglycerolated nonionic compounds, are known.
It is also known that cationic polymers enable the cosmetic condition of the hair, especially disentangling, to be improved. As a result, in cosmetic compositions containing nonionic surfactants used as a dyeing and bleaching vehicle, an effort is made to use cationic polymers for the purpose of imparting good cosmetic properties, in particular those of disentangling, to the dyed and bleached keratinous fibers.
It has, however, been found that some cationic polymers created problems of compatibility with nonionic vehicles, manifesting themselves in a phase separation during storage, a modification of the consistency and foaming properties.
This problem had been resolved, in particular, in FR-A-2,502,949 in the case of oxidation dyeing compositions employing an oxidizing solution, by the use of a process consisting in storing separately, on the one hand the cationic polymer in the oxidizing solution containing, in particular, hydrogen peroxide, and on the other hand the dyeing composition containing the dyes and the nonionic surfactants. Mixing of the two compositions was performed at the time of use.
The Applicant has discovered, and this forms the subject of the invention, that it was possible to avoid the separation of the composition used as a vehicle, especially for dyeing or bleaching, into several phases, or the precipitation of the ingredients of the vehicle, by introducing, into a composition containing particular nonionic surfactants, cationic or amphoteric substantive polymers which are supposedly incompatible with the nonionic medium of said composition so as to obtain a composition which is stable to temperature and over time.
The subject of the invention is hence a cosmetic composition containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a mixture of particular nonionic surfactants and cationic or amphoteric type substantive polymers.
Another subject of the invention consists of the use of this composition as a vehicle in dyeing or bleaching compositions.
The subject of the invention is also the dyeing or bleaching compositions thereby obtained, as well as their use for dyeing and bleaching hair.
Other subjects of the invention will become apparent on reading the description and the examples which follow.
The composition according to the invention is essentially distinguished by the fact that it contains, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
a) 14 to 50% and preferably 20 to 50% by weight of a mixture of nonionic surfactants chosen from fatty alcohols and oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated and/or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols which are linear or branched and which can contain aromatic units, the mixture comprising at least one surfactant A having an HLB in the sense used by Griffin of not less than 14, this surfactant being present in a weight quantity equal to [A], and at least one nonionic surfactant B whose HLB in the sense used by Griffin is not less than 1 and is less than 10, present in a weight quantity [B], the ratio
R
=
∑
(
n
C
A
×
[
A
]
)
∑
(
n
C
B
×
[
B
]
)
=
Sum of the products
n
C
A
×
[
A
]
Sum of the products
n
C
B
×
[
B
]
in which:
nC
A
and nC
B
denote, respectively, the number of carbon atoms in the fatty chain of the surfactants A and B,
being such that:
0.5≦R≦1.6, more than 50% and preferably at least 52% of the nonionic surfactants present satisfying the inequality for R;
b) 0.05 to 10% by weight of a cationic or amphoteric substantive polymer, said composition being stable at room temperature
and at a pH equal to or above 5.5.
The nonionic surfactants which are useable according to the invention of type A and which possess an HLB in the sense used by Griffin of not less than 14 are preferably chosen from fatty alcohols whose fatty chain contains a number of carbon atoms from 12 to 30 (12≦nC
A
≦30), and the type B surfactants having an HLB in the sense used by Griffin of between 1 and 10 are preferably chosen from fatty alcohols whose fatty chain contains a number of carbon atoms from 10 to 50 (10≦nC
B
≦50).
Among type A surfactants, there may be mentioned, more especially:
oxyethylenated oleocetyl alcohol containing 30 mol of ethylene oxide
nC
A
=17 (average value)
HLB=16.5
oxyethylenated lauryl alcohol (C
12
-C
14
/55-45%) containing 12 mol of ethylene oxide
nC
A
=12.5
HLB=14
oxyethylenated lauryl alcohol containing 23 mol of ethylene oxide
nC
A
=12
HLB=16.6
oxyethylenated cetyl/stearyl alcohol containing 15 mol of ethylene oxide
nC
A
=17
HLB=14.5
oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol containing 100 mol of ethylene oxide
nC
A
=18
HLB=18.8
oxyethylenated isostearyl alcohol containing 20 mol of ethylene oxide
nC
A
=18
HLB=14.9
oxyethylenated behenyl alcohol containing 20 mol of ethylene oxide
nC
A
=22
HLB=16.5
oxyethylenated C
30
primary alcohol containing 40 mol of ethylene oxide
nC
A
=30
HLB=16.1
oxyethylenated octylphenols containing 11 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, oxyethylenated nonylphenols containing 12 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide.
Among type B fatty alcohols, there may be mentioned, more especially:
oxyethylenated decyl alcohol containing 3.5 mol of ethylene oxide
nC
B
=10.4
HLB=8.5
oleyl alcohol containing 70% of C
18
nC
B
=17.5
HLB=1
lauryl alcohol
nC
B
=12
HLB=1
cetyl/stearyl (50:50) alcohol
nC
B
=17
HLB=1
oxyethylenated isostearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of ethylene oxide
nC
B
=18
HLB=6.5
oxyethylenated oleyl alcohol containing 3 mol of ethylene oxide
nC
B
=18
HLB=6.5
oxyethylenated lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide
nC
B
=12
HLB=9.7
oxypropylenated lauryl alcohol containing 3 mol of propylene oxide
nC
B
=12
HLB close to 1
oxyethylenated C
50
primary alcohol containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide
nC
B
=50
HLB=4
polyglycerolated oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol
nC
B
=18
HLB=7.1
oxyethylenated octylphenols containing less than 4.5 mol of ethylene oxide
oxyethylenated nonylphenols containing less than 5 mol of ethylene oxide.
The HLB value according to Griffin is defined in J.Soc.Cosm.Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.
The composition according to the invention can contain, in a proportion of less than 50% and, in particular, not exceeding 48% of the total of surfactants present, nonionic surfactants possessing an intermediate HLB according to Griffin of between 10 and 14.
Among these surfactants, there may be mentioned oxyethylenated decyl alcohol containing 5.5 mol of ethylene oxide (HLB=11.5), oxyethylenated nonylphenol containing 6 mol of ethylene oxide (HLB=11) and oxyethylenated C
30
primary alcohol containing 10 mol of ethylene oxide (HLB=10).
The substantive character of the cationic or amphoteric polymers used according to the invention is determined by the test using the dye Acid Red 80, according to RICHARD J. CRAWFORD, Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 1980-31-(5)-pages 273 to 278.
These polymers are, inter alia, polymers which are incompatible with a nonionic vehicle not corresponding to the definition according to the invention.
The incompatible character may be determined, in particular, by introducing 1% of active substances of this substantive polymer into a nonionic medium such as that described in FR 2,502,949. The production of a more or less marked cloudy appearance and possibly even of a precipitate and/or the
Boudy Francoise
Millequant Jean Marie
Jacobson & Holman PLLC
L'Oreal
Page Thurman K.
Seidleck Brian K.
LandOfFree
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