Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Manicure or pedicure compositions
Patent
1993-06-22
1995-05-16
Venkat, Jyothsna
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Manicure or pedicure compositions
424 701, 424401, 424DIG1, 424DIG5, 252DIG5, 252DIG13, 514 23, 514 25, 514103, 514114, 514475, 514517, 514552, 514781, 514844, 514846, 514883, 514887, 514936, 514937, 514938, 536171, 536172, 536175, 549 15, 549548, 554 40, 554 41, 554 44, 554 46, 554 49, 554 63, 554 66, 558 22, 558 25, 558159, A61K 704, A61K 7075, A61K 740, A61K 748, C07C30504, C07F 9141, C07H 1104
Patent
active
054158559
DESCRIPTION:
BRIEF SUMMARY
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The invention relates to modified ceramides, their synthesis and use in compositions for topical application to human skin, hair or nails.
BACKGROUND TO THE INVENTION AND PRIOR ART
It is generally understood that ceramides present within the intercellular lipid lamellae of the stratum corneum play an important role in the production and maintenance of the water permeability barrier of the skin. Ceramides, or substances closely related to them, have been disclosed as components of skin care compositions. In particular, Kao Corporation in GB 2 178 312 and GB 2 213 723 disclose the use of natural ceramides extracted from skin in topical products. Also, Unilever in EP 97059 disclose -linoleoyl ceramides and emphasize their role in the water barrier function of the skin.
It is believed that one of the causes of dry skin and ageing skin is a reduction in the amount of lipid contained within these intercellular lipid lamellae. It is therefore desirable to be able successfully to replace these depleted lipids via the topical route.
One of the problems associated with the topical application of skin and hair care products containing ceramides or their synthetic analogues, is devising a suitable method for delivering them effectively to the lipid lamellae, without causing permanent disruption of the stratum corneum. It is accordingly apparent that permanently disrupted stratum corneum is unable to retain molecules of this sort, as they are simply washed out again when the stratum corneum (skin) is contacted with water.
This problem has not successfully been solved to date.
Kao Corporation have reported in GB 2 178 312, EP 227 994 and EP 282 816, that co-surfactants such as glyceryl ethers assist synthetic ceramide, to penetrate into the stratum corneum. However, these co-surfactants tend to disrupt the stratum corneum, so that when penetration occurs allowing the synthetic ceramide access to the lipid lamellae, there is nothing to prevent them being washed out again on contact with water.
Certain phosphorylated and sulphated derivatives of ceramides have been prepared in the course of scientific investigation of natural metabolism or to make liposomes for drug delivery.
Thus Karpyshev, Bushnev et al Bioorg Khim 5(2) 238 (1979) and 5(9) 1381 (1979) describe preparation of phosphorylated derivatives of ceramides by routes which entail the use of protective groups which are eventually removed.
Japanese published application JP-A-89/299265 discloses the preparation of ceramide sulphates to be used for liposome production.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
We have solved the problem of effective delivery of ceramides using modified naturally-occurring ceramides, that is ceramides derived from animal tissues, such as skin and brain or those derived from certain plant tissues, which have been modified by phosphorylation and/or sulphation.
Accordingly, when these modified ceramides are applied topically to the skin, together with a suitable cosmetically acceptable vehicle, they will readily penetrate the stratum corneum without permanently disrupting it, and after demodification with phosphatases or sulphatases which occur naturally in skin and which will cleave off the phosphate or sulphate groups respectively, the unmodified ceramide structures will remain locked in the desired location within the stratum corneum. Since the phosphate and/or sulphate groups, which facilitate delivery, have been removed once the ceramide is in position, it is then not possible subsequently to wash out the ceramide from the skin, so ensuring that it is available to effect repair in situ of lipid lamellae which have become damaged under dry skin conditions.
To summarise: we have modified certain naturally-occurring ceramides by phosphorylation or sulphation to assist their penetration into the lipid lamellae of the stratum corneum. Once located within the lipid lamellae, naturally-occurring phosphatases and sulphatases will cleave off the phosphate or sulphate groups respectively, to leave the ceramides lodged firmly with
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Critchley Peter
Kirsch Susan E.
Rawlings Anthony V.
Scott Ian R.
Elizabeth Arden Co. Division of Conopco, Inc.
Mitelman Rimma
Venkat Jyothsna
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