Cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions – Polymer containing

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424401, 424 7011, 424 74, A61K 748, A61K 4742, A61K 3801

Patent

active

057629161

DESCRIPTION:

BRIEF SUMMARY
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

1. Field of the Invention
This invention relates to cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations containing highly acylated protein hydrolyzates as emulsifiers and to the use of these substances as emulsifiers for the preparations mentioned.
1. Discussion of Related Art
Acylation products of protein hydrolyzates, so-called protein fatty acid condensates, are anionic surfactants which are used, for example, in water-containing cosmetic preparations (hair shampoos etc.) by virtue of their good cleaning performance and their particular compatibility with the skin. Information on the properties of this class of surfactants can be found in the articles by G. Schuster and H. Modde in Parf. Kosm. 45, 337 (1964) and by O. J. Muscio et al. in J. Am. Oil. Chem. Soc. 59, 217 (1982).
Whereas, therefore, protein fatty acid condensates are distinguished by excellent properties in purely aqueous systems, their use in conjunction with oils is generally not possible. Emulsions, especially o/w emulsions, containing acylated protein hydrolyzates have a tendency to thicken and separate with increasing storage.
Accordingly, the problem addressed by the present invention was to provide emulsions containing acylated protein hydrolyzates which would be stable and would have a constant viscosity, even in the event of prolonged storage.


DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations which are characterized in that they contain as emulsifiers highly acylated protein fatty acid condensates with a total nitrogen content, based on the acylation products, of 1.8 to 4.1% by weight.
It has surprisingly been found that protein hydrolyzates exhibiting excellent emulsifier properties are obtained by increasing the degree of acylation which can be determined through the reduction in the total nitrogen content. The emulsions prepared using these substances are stable in storage and have a constant viscosity. It has proved to be of particular advantage to use protein fatty acid condensates based on vegetable raw materials, more especially soya protein.
As already mentioned, protein fatty acid condensates are known substances. The new highly acylated products are also normally produced from animal or vegetable proteins, for example collagen or keratin and preferably almond protein, wheat protein, potato protein and, in particular, soya protein, which are subjected to acidic, alkaline and/or enzymatic hydrolysis and thereafter have an average molecular weight in the range from 600 to 4,000 and preferably in the range from 2,000 to 3,500.
To produce highly acylated protein fatty acid condensates by acidic hydrolysis, dilute sulfuric acid, for example, is added to the starting protein which is then hydrolyzed for 8 to 10 h at 85.degree. to 95.degree. C. On completion of hydrolysis, it is advisable to add aqueous calcium hydroxide solution to the reaction mixture so that the polypeptides are converted into the calcium salts and the hydrolyzed material is precipitated as calcium sulfate. The dispersion is then filtered, a clear solution of calcium peptides being obtained. This solution can be concentrated by evaporation and then directly acylated with fatty acid chlorides. If sodium or potassium salts, for example, are to be produced instead of the calcium salts, it is advisable to treat the calcium peptide solution with soda or potash before the Schotten-Baumann reaction, to filter off the calcium carbonate precipitated and further to process the alkali metal peptides instead of the calcium peptides.
To produce highly acylated protein fatty acid condensates by alkaline hydrolysis, an aqueous calcium hydroxide dispersion is added to the starting material which is then hydrolyzed for 6 to 10 h at 85.degree. to 95.degree. C. and the hydrolyzed material is filtered from the residue. The filtrate contains the calcium peptides which may then be acylated with the fatty acid chlorides. In this case, too, the corresponding alkali metal peptides may be obtained by reprec

REFERENCES:
patent: 4406833 (1983-09-01), Boehme et al.
patent: 4705682 (1987-11-01), Moeller et al.
patent: 5071960 (1991-12-01), Turowski et al.
patent: 5458881 (1995-10-01), Berger et al.
J.Am.Oil.Chem. soc. 59, 217 (1982).
Kosmetische Fabemittel, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984.

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