Boots – shoes – and leggings
Patent
1990-02-20
1993-04-06
Smith, Jerry
Boots, shoes, and leggings
139 78, G06F 1546
Patent
active
052009041
DESCRIPTION:
BRIEF SUMMARY
The present invention relates to a computer aided system for design woven material and weaving.
The invention has particular application in designing weaving patterns and producing woven fabric samples having such patterns.
The design of woven fabric patterns involves a high degree of risk to a designer and pattern innovator due to the high costs and cumbersome nature of existing processes. Initially, the designer must develop ideas on paper and produce loom instructions. A loom has then to be `set-up`, a time consuming and labour-intensive process, meaning that from this point the designer is committed to a particular design. The sample then woven is of a minimum length of thirty meters but, as samples are frequently rejected, samples and thus great expense are often wasted. Hence, there is a tendency to use only tried and tested design templates and to modify these only slightly and slowly to reduce the reject rate. A reluctance for significant change results also in stereotyped designs.
Industrial producers of textiles have tried to alleviate the problems and expense associated with this early stage in the evolution of fabrics by using `freelance` designers or design houses. This only displaces part of the problem, spreading the risk and expense over more organisations and introducing a greater time lag such that the whole system becomes even less responsive to changes in style or fashion.
Considerable time and money could be saved if designs could be visualised without samples or if there was an alleviation of the time consuming threading of the heald shafts or their equivalents, the movement of which forms the shed and dictates the fabric structure e.g. twill or plain, and an increase in the number of yarn types, thicknesses, counts and colours supplied by the warp beam.
Computer aided design systems have been developed to improve the process but, unfortunately, these have not significantly reduced the reject rate since samples are still needed to show the three-dimensional qualities and feel of the fabric which even the best screen display simulation cannot express.
According to the present invention there is provided a computer aided system for design of woven material and weaving, the system comprising a computer, input means for the computer whereby user-defined weaving variables may be input, the computer being arrnged to control in correspondence with the input weaving variables at least one operating function of a weaving system.
Preferably, the weaving variables include yarn type, colour, count, t.p.i. (threads per inch) and fabric structure.
Preferably also, the operating functions of the weaving system include warp yarn supply means, warp yarn tensioning means, shedding means having spacing devices and warp yarn movement means, beating-up means and fabric take-off means.
The warp yarn tensioning means may be upstream or downstream of the shedding means and function as a mass tensioning means, or as a wave tensioning means associated with the shed, or individual bobbin tensioning means associated with the warp yarn supply means.
The warp yarn supply means is of modular form, and contains sets of several yarns that can be inserted and removed and are attached to units hingedly related in book-leaf form.
The shedding means may have the warp yarn generally lowered, the roof of the shed being formed by individual lifts to each thread; or the warp yarn is generally raised, the floor of the shed being formed by increased tension to individual threads, with the tensioning means upstream as part of the warp yarn supply means or downstream as part of the beating-up means.
The spacing means may be fixed or movable combs, conduits, channels or curtain-ring-like means of either closed loops or else open loops where the ends of the loop run parallel but do not touch; or the spacing means may be individual needles that also form part of the individual thread movement means.
The spacing means is adjustable to allow for different numbers of threads per inch (t.p.i.); there may be employed a drum of lobed sec
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patent: 4406312 (1983-09-01), Egbers et al.
patent: 4556945 (1985-12-01), Fry
patent: 4619294 (1986-10-01), Sainen et al.
patent: 5014756 (1991-05-01), Vogel et al.
patent: 5016183 (1991-05-01), Shyong
Gordon Paul
Smith Jerry
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