Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Plant material or plant extract of undetermined constitution...
Reexamination Certificate
1999-09-22
2001-12-04
Prats, Francisco (Department: 1651)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Plant material or plant extract of undetermined constitution...
C424S401000, C424S059000, C424S063000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06326033
ABSTRACT:
The present invention relates to novel cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions comprising at least one specific compound, namely a redwood extract, in order to confer on the skin an artificial colouring similar to natural tanning, and to their uses in the abovementioned cosmetics field.
In this day and age, it is important to look well and a tanned skin is always a sign of good health. However, natural tanning is not always desirable insofar as it requires prolonged exposure to UV radiation, in particular to UV-A radiation, which causes browning of the skin but, on the other hand, can induce a detrimental change in the latter, in particular in the case of sensitive skin or skin continually exposed to solar radiation. It is therefore desirable to find an alternative to natural tanning which is compatible with the requirements of such skin.
The majority of cosmetic products intended for the artificial tanning of the skin are based on carbonyl derivatives which make possible the formation of coloured products by interaction with the amino acids of the skin.
To this end, it is known that dihydroxyacetone or DHA is a particularly advantageous product which is commonly used in cosmetics as an agent for the artificial tanning of the skin; applied to the latter, in particular to the face, it makes it possible to obtain a tanning or browning effect with an appearance similar to that which can result from prolonged exposure to the sun (natural tanning) or under a UV lamp.
However, the use of DHA can exhibit certain disadvantages. Thus, DHA has an unfortunate tendency, more or less pronounced, depending on the nature of the medium in which it is formulated, to decompose over time, this decomposition generally being reflected in the long run by an undesirable yellowing of the compositions in which it is present. Such a phenomenon means that the activity of the DHA, in particular its ability to colour the skin, may be decreased at the time of the application of these compositions to the skin. Thus, the intensity of the colouring obtained on the skin may appear to be still insufficient.
Another disadvantage of DHA is the slowness with which the colouring develops: this is because several hours (3 to 5 hours in general) are required for the colouring to develop. Furthermore, the colouring produced on the skin with DHA is often regarded as too yellow by users. There therefore exists an increasing demand for self-tanning products which act rapidly and which confer a colouring closer to natural tanning.
For the purpose of responding to this need, provision has been made to combine DHA with various compounds: thus, the document WO 95/15742 discloses the combination of DHA with amino acids. However, such combinations are very seldom used insofar as their use requires either a two-step application or complex separate packagings. The document FR-2,726,761 discloses, for its part, the combination of DHA with lawsone and/or juglone: here again, this combination is not very satisfactory, due this time to the risks of sensitization which it exhibits.
Thus, a search is still being maintained for new compounds and new compositions which make it possible to artificially confer on the skin a colouring similar to natural tanning in a simple, efficient, rapid and risk-free way.
In point of fact, following much research carried out in the field of the artificial colouring of the skin, the Applicant Company has now discovered that the use of specific compounds, furthermore known in the state of the art as dyes, makes it possible to confer on the skin a lasting artificial colouring similar to natural tanning which is achieved immediately after application to the skin.
The subject-matter of the present invention is therefore a novel cosmetic and/or dermatological composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, at least one redwood extract as agent for colouring the skin.
Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “agent for colouring the skin” is understood to mean a compound having a specific affinity for the skin which allows it to confer on the latter a lasting artificial colouring. The term “lasting colouring” is understood to mean a colouring which is removed neither with water nor using a solvent and which withstands both rubbing and washing with a solution comprising surfactants. Such a lasting colouring is therefore distinguished from the superficial and short-lived colouring contributed, for example, by a make-up product or by face painting.
A further subject-matter of the present invention is the novel use of at least one extract as defined above in or for the manufacture of cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions intended to confer on the skin an artificial colouring similar to natural tanning.
Another subject-matter of the present invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment of the skin intended to confer on it an artificial colouring similar to natural tanning, characterized in that it consists in applying, to the skin, an effective amount of an extract or of a cosmetic composition as defined above.
The compositions and the uses in accordance with the invention make it possible to obtain an artificial colouring similar to natural tanning in an exceptionally short period of time. An immediate colouring is thus obtained which makes it possible to see the application and consequently makes possible better homogeneity in the spreading of the composition over the skin and therefore of the colouring which results therefrom. Furthermore, the artificial colouring obtained on the skin according to the invention is extremely close to natural tanning and also highly resistant to water and to time (it can persist on the skin for several days).
Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become apparent on reading the detailed description which will follow.
The compounds used in the present invention are redwood extracts: these redwoods include those known as “soluble” redwoods and those known as “insoluble” redwoods.
The term ““soluble” redwoods” generally encompasses different species of the genus “Cesalpinia”, such as
Cesalpinia sappan
, more commonly known as sappanwood,
Cesalpinia brasiliensis
, also known as brazilwood,
Cesalpinia crista
or
Cesalpinia echinata.
The term ““insoluble” redwoods” generally encompasses the Asian and West African species of redwoods of the genus “Pterocarpus” and of the genus “Baphia”: these woods are, for example,
Pterocarpus santalinus, Pterocarpus osun, Pterocarpus soyauxii, Pterocarpus erinaceus, Pterocarpus indicus
or
Baphia nitida
. These woods may also be known as padauk, sandalwood, narrawood, camwood or barwood.
Extracts which can be used in the present invention can thus, for example, be obtained from red sandalwood (
Pterocarpus santalinus
) by basic aqueous extraction, such as the product sold under the trade name “Santal Concentré SL 709C” by the company Copiaa, or alternatively by means of solvent extraction of sandal powder, such as the product sold under the trade name “Santal Poudre SL PP” by the same company Copiaa. Mention may also be made of the aqueous/alcoholic extract of red sandalwood powder from the company Alban Müller.
Extracts which are also suitable for the present invention can be obtained from reddish wood, such as camwood (
Baphia nitida
) or barwood (
Pterocarpus soyauxii, Pterocarpus erinaceus
): the latter is thus split up and then milled: a conventional alcoholic extraction or an extraction by percolation is subsequently carried out on this milled material in order to collect a pulverulent extract particularly suited to the implementation of the present invention.
These extracts are preferably obtained from the corresponding red heartwood.
Extracts from redwoods known as “insoluble” redwoods will preferably be employed in the present invention.
Compounds extracted from such woods and which are particularly well suited to the implementation of the present invention are, for example, santalins A, B and C and santarubins A, B and C.
Some of th
Allard Delphine
Darmenton Patrick
Forestier Serge
Burns Doane Swecker & Mathis L.L.P.
Coe Susan D
Prats Francisco
Societe L'Oreal S.A.
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