Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Preparations characterized by special physical form – Cosmetic – antiperspirant – dentifrice
Patent
1999-03-04
2000-08-29
Clardy, S. Mark
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Preparations characterized by special physical form
Cosmetic, antiperspirant, dentifrice
424 59, 514725, A61K 740
Patent
active
061104787
DESCRIPTION:
BRIEF SUMMARY
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a composition having tanning and photoprotective activity intended to be administered either by the oral route, or by topical application, as well as to its cosmetic applications.
BACKGROUND
The cutaneous pigmentation of mammals in general, and of man in particular, is based on the biosynthesis of a nitrogenous pigment, melanin, from tyrosine, whose regulation is under the influence of several parameters: the oxidation of tyrosine to dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA), then to dihydroxyindole and finally to melanin, accentuate its coloration; this pigment is present in the form of organelles, the melanosomes, in the dendrites of the abovementioned melanocytes and these melanosomes are then transmitted to the keratinocytes, which transport the melanin to the surface of the skin where it is progressively eliminated during natural desquamation.
The melanin formed is composed of two types, (1) eumelanin, which is a black-brown color and is formed by polymerization of oxidation products of dopaquinone and (2) pheomelanin which is a reddish-brown color and is formed by polymerization of sulfur derivatives of dopaquinone; only the first type has a photoprotective effect.
The color of the skin and its intensity thus depend on the melanin content of the keratinocytes, on the type of melanin present in these keratinocytes, on the rate of desquamation and on the thickness of the horny layer which is the layer containing the most pigment.
Essentially for cosmetic reasons, man exposes himself more and more to the sun, in order to have a tanned skin.
However, ultraviolet radiation (UVA and UVB), usually proposed for tanning (sunlamps, for example), have short term as well as long term dangers.
In addition, because of a progressive decrease in the ozone layer, the deleterious effects of ultraviolet solar radiation require the photoprotection of individuals to be increased.
To combat the harmful short-term effects of ultraviolet radiation, namely solar erythema and photosensitization, it is necessary to protect the skin.
However, all of the products for oral administration proposed in the prior art are uniquely centered on the cosmetic effect: obtainment of a "tanned" skin, and comprise the administration of .beta.-carotene at doses clearly higher than those recommended in EEC Directive 90/496, namely 800 .mu.g/day, expressed as vitamin A, or 6 mg of .beta.-carotene/day.
At the doses usually used in these products from the prior art, that is to say of the order of 12 to 30 mg/day, there is accumulation of .beta.-carotene in the keratinocytes, which gives the skin an appearance of "tanning", but does not allow it to have, in addition, active photoprotection by induction of eumelanin, during subsequent exposure to the sun.
Consequently, the Applicant has especially aimed at providing a composition which can be administered by the oral route and which responds better to the needs of practice than the compositions of the prior art, especially in that: lower than those used earlier to this effect and not exceeding the limits recommended in the abovementioned Directive, and effect on account of the fact that it especially induces the production of eumelanin.
The present invention relates to a composition for cosmetic purposes, which is a regulator of cutaneous pigmentation and is adapted both to administration by the oral route and to application on the skin, of the type comprising carotenoids, characterized in that it essentially comprises a component (a) formed of at least one carotenoid of natural origin with provitamin A activity selected from the group consisting of .beta.-carotene and .alpha.-carotene or a mixture of these, and a component (b), corresponding to at least one carotenoid of natural origin without provitamin A activity, formed by lycopene, optionally associated with another component (b), selected from the group consisting of zeaxanthin, cryptoxanthin and lutein or a mixture of these, the components (a) and the lycopene being in a ratio of between 0.95:1
REFERENCES:
patent: 5290605 (1994-03-01), Shapira
Clardy S. Mark
Laboratoire Oenobiol
Williamson Michael A.
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