Composition for coating keratin fibres

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Live hair or scalp treating compositions – Hair coloring

Reexamination Certificate

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C424S401000

Reexamination Certificate

active

06264933

ABSTRACT:

The present invention relates to a composition for coating keratin fibres, in particular human eyelashes and hair, comprising a film-forming polymer and a filler. The invention also relates to the use of this composition for making keratin fibres curl, as well as to a process for coating these keratin fibres. The composition and the coating process according to the invention are more particularly intended for substantially longilinear keratin fibres, such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the hair, including false eyelashes and hair pieces. The composition may be a make-up composition, a make-up base, a composition to be applied over a make-up, also known as a top-coat, or a composition for cosmetically treating keratin fibres. The invention more particularly relates to a mascara.
In general, compositions for coating the eyelashes, known as mascaras, comprise waxes for covering the eyelashes. These waxes can be dispersed in an aqueous medium, in particular with the aid of surfactants. However, the film of make-up obtained with these compositions has a tendency to crumble over time. The film thus embrittled has a tendency to no longer be resistant to rubbing, in particular with the fingers, and/or to water, for example when bathing or taking a shower, which runs counter to the production of a make-up effect which has good staying power over time.
So-called “waterproof” mascaras are also known, which comprise waxes in an anhydrous medium, in particular in a liquid fatty phase comprising organic solvents. These compositions can also comprise an aqueous phase dispersed in a liquid fatty phase, as is described, for example, in International publication WO-A-91/12793. This document moreover points out that waterproofing of the mascara can be improved by adding a water-soluble film-forming polymer to the aqueous phase. However, these compositions do not make it possible to obtain good curling of the eyelashes.
The aim of the present invention is to provide a composition for coating keratin fibres, in particular the eyelashes, which leads, after it has been applied, to a waterproof coating that imparts good curling to keratin fibres.
The inventors have found, surprisingly, that such a coating of keratin fibres, in particular of the eyelashes, can be obtained using a film-forming polymer and a lamellar filler in a composition comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a liquid fatty phase. This gives a composition which, after it has been applied to the keratin fibres, leads to a waterproof coating which imparts good curling to keratin fibres. Moreover, the curling obtained is better than that obtained with spherical fillers, such as rice starch.
Furthermore, the coating obtained with the inventive composition does not crumble and has good resistance to rubbing, in particular to rubbing with the fingers. The coating also imparts an elongation effect to the eyelashes.
More specifically, a subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres, in particular the eyelashes, comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a liquid fatty phase that contains at least one volatile organic solvent, the aqueous phase containing a polymer system comprising at least one film-forming polymer, characterized in that the film-forming polymer is in the form of solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase, and in that the composition also comprises at least one lamellar filler.
Another subject of the invention is a mascara product comprising a reservoir containing a mascara composition as defined above and fitted with a system for applying the composition to keratin fibres, in particular the eyelashes.
A subject of the invention is also a process for coating keratin fibres, in particular the eyelashes, which comprises applying a composition as defined above to keratin fibres.
A subject of the invention is also the use of a polymer system comprising at least one film-forming polymer and at least one lamellar filler, in a composition for coating keratin fibres, in particular the eyelashes, for curling keratin fibres and/or for providing waterproofing and/or for lengthening keratin fibres, the composition comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a liquid fatty phase that contains at least one volatile organic solvent, the film-forming polymer being in the form of solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase.
In the present patent application, the expression “composition for coating keratin fibres” means a composition which is capable of forming a film on keratin fibres.
The expression “film-forming polymer” means a polymer which by itself leads to an isolatable film.
The expression “polymer in the form of solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase,” which is generally known as a latex or pseudolatex, means an aqueous phase in which the polymer in particulate form is directly dispersed.
The film-forming polymer in the polymer system in the form of solid particles dispersed in the aqueous phase can be chosen from polycondensates, radical-generated polymers and polymers of natural origin.
Preferably, the polymer system is capable of forming a film which produces, at a concentration of 7% in water, a shrinkage of isolated stratum corneum of more than 1% at 30° C., and at a relative humidity of 40%, preferably more than 1.5%, and better still more than 2%, gives good curling of the keratin fibres. This retraction is measured using an extensiometer according to the measuring method indicated in the examples set forth herein below.
Polycondensates which may be mentioned are anionic, cationic, nonionic or amophoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyurea-urethanes, polyureas, polyesters (which are described in particular in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,734,874, 4,233,196 and 4,304,901), and mixtures thereof.
Appropriate film-forming polymers which are preferably used are polyester-polyurethanes, and more particularly polyester-polyurethanes capable of forming a film which has a hardness ranging from 40 to 200 seconds, and better still, from 50 to 170 seconds. It is possible, for example, to use the polyester-polyurethanes sold under the names “Avalure UR-425”, “Avalure UR-430”, “Avalure UR-405” and “Avalure UR-410,” by the company Goodrich.
It is also possible to use polyether-polyurethanes, and more particularly polyether-polyurethanes capable of forming a film with a hardness ranging from 10 to 40 seconds, and better still, from 20 to 35 seconds. Examples of polyether-polyurethanes which may be mentioned are those sold under the names “Sancure 878,” “Avalure UR-450” and “Sancure 861,” by the company Goodrich.
The hardness of the polymer film is measured on a film obtained after drying a 300 &mgr;m thick layer of an aqueous 28% dispersion of solids of the particles of film-forming polymer for a period of 24 hours at 30° C. and at 50% relative humidity. The hardness of the film is measured according to ASTM standard D-43-66, or standard NF-T 30-016 (October 1981), using a Persoz pendulum.
Suitable film-forming polymers according to the invention which can also be used are anionic polyesters and in particular those comprising at least one monomer bearing a group —SO
3
M, in which M represents a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH
4
+
or a metal ion. The copolyester can be, for example, a copolymer of at least one dicarboxylic acid, of at least one diol and of at least one difunctional aromatic monomer bearing a group —SO
3
M, in which M represents a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH
4
+
or a metal ion.
The dicarboxylic acid can be chosen from phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid. The diol can be chosen from ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol and 1,4-butanediol. The difunctional aromatic monomer bearing the group —SO
3
M can be chosen from sulphoisophthalic acid, in particular the sodium salt of 5-sulphoisophthalic acid, sulphoterephthalic acid, sulphophthalic acid and 4-sulphonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid.
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