Apparel – Body garments – Coats
Reissue Patent
1998-11-04
2003-03-18
Hale, Gloria M. (Department: 3765)
Apparel
Body garments
Coats
C002S097000, C002S272000
Reissue Patent
active
RE038031
ABSTRACT:
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to an improved coat construction. More particularly, the present invention relates to an improved support structure for the lapel and chest areas of a suit coat, sport coat or the like.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Coats are typically constructed using an exterior or shell layer that is attached to a number of internal supporting layers and an interior lining. When the structure and materials forming these layers are selected, the lapel and chest areas should be designed in order to provide firm support and also be durable over time. On the other hand, the lapel must also have a proper “roll,” and not become flat or lifeless. In addition, these features must be achieved through the use of a construction that can be manufactured in an efficient and cost effective manner.
During the design of a suit coat, the selection of the particular materials used to form these layers is important to the coat's appearance and durability. However, the selection of these materials has proven troublesome. In particular, a material that improves durability can also detract from the appearance of the coat, and vice versa. In addition, the selection of particular materials and constructions can increase the difficulty of manufacturing the coat, as well as the cost of construction. Accordingly, various attempts have been made to design a durable coat that has a pleasing lapel appearance while also bring capable of bring manufactured in an efficient manner.
For example, a suit coat has previously been constructed using canvas layers to support the lapel and body portions. As disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 762,359, issued to Steinberg on Jun. 14, 1904, three canvas pieces are attached to the front panel of the coat. The first piece is attached to the lapel, and the second and third canvas pieces are attached to the body of the front panel. While canvas provides good support for the chest and lapel areas, this construction has certain disadvantages. First, there is an increased likelihood of puckering, i.e., the wrinkling of the coat, because of the different reactions of canvas and the shell fabric to heat and moisture. These problems can be further aggravated by dry leaning the coat. Second, because canvas is a relatively heavy material, this construction can become heavier than generally preferred.
Another example of a previous suit coat construction is shown in U.S. Pat No. 2,121,836, issued to A. J. Steinberger on Jun. 28, 1938. As discussed in the '836 patent, the facing layer includes a one-piece canvas supporting layer attached to the lapel and body portions of the coat. A felt layer is attached over the canvas layer in the lapel area of the coat and a thermoplastic material is attached over the canvas layer in the chest area of the coat. While the use of canvas in the lapel and body areas of the suit coat is advantageous to the support of these areas, problems still exist with puckering and increased weight.
In a further example, a suit coat was previously constructed using a fusible interior layer attached to the body of the suit coat, but not to the lapel. A one-piece canvas component was attached across the lapel and chest areas with a felt layer bring attached over the canvas in the chest area. This construction implements the advantageous use of a fusible material in the body area of the coat while also using canvas to support the lapel and chest areas. However, it has been found that the use of the same canvas material in the lapel and cheat areas does not provide the optimum support and appearance for these areas of the coat. In particular, if a relatively heavy canvas material is used, the support of the coat is optimized. But, the lapel will then appear relatively firm. Therefore, while the use of certain canvas materials is advantageous to the support of the coat, these materials can also detract from the appearance of the coat.
Therefore, a coat construction that overcomes the disadvantages of the past is needed.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
Briefly stated, the present invention is directed to a coat having a construction and a combination of advantages never known to exist before. The present invention includes a shell piece, a fusible interlining, a lapel support component, and a separate chest support component. The shell piece includes body and lapel portions. The body portion has a curved upper edge for attachment to a sleeve. The fusible interlining is attached to only the body portion of the shell piece. The lapel support component is formed from a material having a first average weight and is attached to only the lapel portion of the shell piece. The separate chest support component is formed from a material having a second average weight distinct from the first average weight The chest support component is attached to only the body portion of the shell piece.
According to one aspect of the present invention, this improved construction provides a durable coat that also has an enhanced lapel appearance.
According to another aspect of the present invention, two distinct materials are used to support the lapel and chest areas of the coat. Therefore, these materials can be precisely selected based on their individual characteristics in order to thereby optimize the durability, support and appearance of the coat.
According to a further aspect of the present invention, this improved construction allows the coat to be manufactured in an advantageous manner. More specifically, the coat of the present invention may be manufactured using a process that is easily implemented in a manufacturing facility producing coats of other constructions.
These aspects of the invention are provided through the novel coat construction disclosed and claimed herein. Other advantages and benefits will become known to the artisan through study of the following description, and the attached drawings.
REFERENCES:
patent: 762359 (1904-06-01), Steinberg
patent: 956238 (1910-04-01), Warren
patent: 1106199 (1914-08-01), Fink
patent: 2121836 (1938-06-01), Steinberger
patent: 2140853 (1938-12-01), Sandone
patent: 3725954 (1973-04-01), Baldini
patent: 3827084 (1974-08-01), Seta
patent: 4011599 (1977-03-01), Chaney et al.
patent: 4012550 (1977-03-01), Hollander
patent: 4214319 (1980-07-01), Bollag
patent: 4411025 (1983-10-01), Magidson
patent: 4495661 (1985-01-01), Kamat
patent: 4521921 (1985-06-01), Bregatta
patent: 4796305 (1989-01-01), Itoh
Prestige III, Burberry Coat.
Brinks Hofer Gilson & Lione
Hale Gloria M.
Hart Schaffner & Marx
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