Cleansing cosmetic compositions and use

Details Cleansing cosmetic compositions and use Cleansing cosmetic compositions and use

2001-10-03

2004-04-27

Venkat, Jyothsna (Department: 1615)

Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions

Live hair or scalp treating compositions

Two or more designated surfactant containing

C424S070100, C424S070130, C424S070210, C424S070220, C424S070240, C424S070310

Reexamination Certificate

active

06726902

ABSTRACT:

The present invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions with improved properties, intended both for cleaning and conditioning keratin materials such as the hair, and comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous vehicle, a washing base consisting of surfactants with detergent power, in which at least one ester of a C
4
-C
6
carboxylic acid and of a C
12
-C
26
alcohol is also present as conditioners. The invention also relates to the use of the said compositions in the abovementioned cosmetic application.
It is common to use detergent compositions (such as shampoos) based essentially on standard surfactants of anionic, nonionic and/or amphoteric type in particular, but more particularly of anionic type, to clean and/or wash keratin materials such as the hair. These compositions are applied to wet hair and the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands removes, after rinsing with water, the various types of soiling which are initially present on the hair.
Admittedly these base compositions are of good washing power, but the intrinsic cosmetic properties associated with them nevertheless remain fairly poor, owing in particular to the fact that the relatively aggressive nature of such a cleaning treatment can, in the long run, lead to more or less pronounced damage to the hair fibre, this damage being associated in particular with the gradual removal of the lipids or proteins contained in or on the surface of this fibre.
Thus, in order to improve the cosmetic properties of the above detergent hair compositions, and more particularly those which are intended to be applied to sensitized hair (i.e. hair which has been damaged or made brittle, in particular under the chemical action of atmospheric agents and/or hair treatments such as permanent-waving, dyeing or bleaching), it is now common to introduce additional cosmetic agents known as conditioners into these compositions, these conditioners being intended mainly to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by the various treatments or aggressions to which the hair fibres are subjected more or less repeatedly. These conditioners may, of course, also improve the cosmetic behaviour of natural hair.
With this aim, it is already being proposed to use silicones and more particularly insoluble silicones which become deposited on the keratin materials during rinsing. However, silicones have the drawback of being difficult to maintain in uniform dispersion in the medium.
It has already been proposed to use oils such as plant or animal oils or fatty acid esters as conditioners. However, conventional compositions have unsatisfactory detergent and foaming properties. Furthermore, keratin materials treated with these compositions usually have an unacceptable greasy feel.
The present invention is directed towards overcoming the drawbacks mentioned above by proposing conditioning and detergent compositions, which are sufficiently foaming, which have good conditioning properties, and in particular disentangling, softness and sheen properties, without imparting a greasy nature.
Thus, after considerable research-conducted in this matter, the Applicant has now found that by using a washing base and at least one liquid ester of a carboxylic acid containing from 4 to 6 carbon atoms and of an alcohol containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, it is possible to obtain stable detergent compositions which have excellent functional properties such as good intrinsic washing power and good foaming properties (foam abundance and strength and initiation of foaming). Furthermore, the compositions have good cosmetic properties, in particular the ease of styling, hold, liveliness and body of the treated hair.
The compositions in accordance with the invention give the hair, after rinsing, a noteworthy treating effect which is manifested in particular by an ease of disentangling, as well as by an increase in body, lightness, smoothness; softness and suppleness without any sensation of greasiness.
Thus, a subject of the present invention is novel detergent and conditioning cosmetic hair compositions, characterized in that they comprise, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, (A) a washing base and (B) at least one liquid ester of a carboxylic acid containing from 4 to 6 carbon atoms and of an alcohol containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms.
A subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of the above compositions for cleaning and/or conditioning the hair.
A—Washing Base:
The compositions in accordance with the invention necessarily comprise a washing base, which is generally aqueous.
The surfactant(s) forming the washing base can be chosen, indifferently, alone or as mixtures, from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic and cationic surfactants.
However, according to the invention, the washing base preferably comprises anionic surfactants or mixtures of anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants or nonionic surfactants.
Thus, according to the invention, the washing base can represent from 4% to 50% by weight, preferably from 6% to 35% by weight and even more preferably from 8% to 25% by weight, of the total weight of the final-composition.
The surfactants which are suitable for carrying out the present invention are in particular the following:
(i) Anionic Surfactant(s):
In the context of the present invention, their nature is not a truly critical feature.
Thus, as examples of anionic surfactants which can be used, alone or as mixtures, in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular (non-limiting list) of salts (in particular alkaline salts, especially sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamidoether sulphates, alkylarylpolyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; alkyl sulphonates, alkyl phosphates, alkylamide sulphonates, alkylaryl sulphonates, &agr;-olefin sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates; alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkylamide sulphosuccinates; alkyl sulphosuccinamates; alkyl sulphoacetates; alkyl ether phosphates; acyl sarcosinates; acyl isethionates, acyl glutamates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all of these various compounds preferably containing from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants which can also be used, mention may also be made of fatty acid salts such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic and stearic acids, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid; acyl lactylates in which the acyl radical contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms. Use may also be made of weakly anionic surfactants, such as alkyl-D-galactosiduronic acids and their salts, as well as polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (C
6
-C
24
)ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (C
6
-C
24
)aryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (C
6
-C
24
) amido ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof.
Among the anionic surfactants, it is preferred to use according to the invention alkyl sulphate and alkyl ether sulphate salts and mixtures thereof.
(ii) Nonionic Surfactant(s):
Nonionic surfactants are likewise compounds that are well known per se (see in particular in this respect “Handbook of Surfactants” by M. R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178) and, in the context of the present invention, their nature is not a critical feature. Thus, they can be chosen in particular from (non-limiting list) polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, alkylphenols, &agr;-diols or alcohols having a fatty chain containing, for example, 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range in particular from 2 to 50 and for the number of glycerol groups to range in particular from 2 to 30. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxi

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