Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Topical sun or radiation screening – or tanning preparations
Reexamination Certificate
2001-07-12
2003-05-06
Dodson, Shelley A. (Department: 1616)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Topical sun or radiation screening, or tanning preparations
C424S060000, C424S400000, C424S401000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06558655
ABSTRACT:
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
1. Technical Field of the Invention
The present invention relates to novel cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions comprising at least one flavylium salt compound which is unsubstituted at position-3 thereof, but which is otherwise substituted with at least one hydroxyl or alkoxy radical, for imparting to human skin an artificial coloration similar to that of a natural tan.
2. Description of the Prior Art
Today, it is important to look healthy and a tanned skin is always a sign of good health. However, a natural tan is not always desirable since it requires long exposure to UV radiation, in particular to UV-A radiation which causes the tanning of the skin but, in contrast, is liable to induce an adverse change therein, in particular in the case of sensitive skin or of skin which is continually exposed to solar radiation. It is thus desirable to find an alternative to a natural tan which is compatible with the requirements of such skin types.
Most of the cosmetic products intended for artificially tanning the skin are based on carbonyl compounds which, by interacting with the amino acids in the skin, form colored species.
To this end, it is known that dihydroxyacetone, or DHA, is a particularly advantageous product which is commonly formulated into cosmetics as an agent for artificially tanning/browning the skin; when applied to the skin, in particular to the face, it provides a tanning or bronzing effect which is similar in appearance to that which may result from prolonged exposure to sunlight (a natural tan) or under a UV lamp.
The disadvantage and drawback of DHA is the length of time required for the coloration to develop: specifically, several hours (3 to 5 hours in general) are required for the coloration to be revealed. There is, thus, an increasing demand for fast-acting self-tanning products which impart a coloration closer to that of a natural tan.
Considerable research is ongoing to develop novel compounds and novel compositions for imparting to the skin an artificial coloration close to that of a natural tan in a simple, effective, fast and risk-free manner.
Anthocyanin colorants have long been known as pharmaceutical and food colorants. These anthocyans are present in nature in the form of heterosides known as anthocyanosides and genins, known as anthocyanidines. These anthocyans are phenyl-2-benzopyrylium or flavylium derivatives and are present, in particular, in the plant in the form of salts. Anthocyans are red-, violet- or blue-colored compounds which generally color flowers, fruit and occasionally leaves. The color observed depends both on the structure of the predominant genin and on the conditions of the medium in which the anthocyanin colorants are present.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
It has now unexpectedly and surprisingly been determined that certain flavylium salt compounds not substituted at position-3, but otherwise substituted with at least one hydroxyl or alkoxy radical, immediately impart to the skin, after having been topically applied thereon, an artificial coloration quite similar to that of a natural tan.
The present invention thus features novel cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions for imparting to the skin an artificial coloration closely resembling that of a natural tan, comprising, formulated into a cosmetically acceptable support (vehicle, diluent or carrier), at least one flavylium salt compound which is not substituted at position-3 thereof and which is otherwise substituted with at least one hydroxyl or alkoxy radical, said at least one flavylium salt being obtained synthetically or from a plant extract containing same, or, alternatively, from an enriched plant extract, in an amount which is effective for providing 30 minutes after application to a fair skin at a rate of 2 mg/cm
2
, a darkening of the color of the skin characterized in the L*a*b* colorimetric measuring system by a &Dgr;L* ranging from −0.5 to −20.
The present invention also features a regime/regimen for the artificial tanning/darkening of human skin to an extent that resembles a natural tan, by topically applying thereon, for such period of time as required to elicit the desired effect, at least one flavylium salt compound which is unsubstituted at position-3 thereof and which is otherwise substituted with at least one hydroxyl or alkoxy radical, whether obtained synthetically, from a plant extract, or from an enriched plant extract containing same.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF BEST MODE AND SPECIFIC/PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS OF THE INVENTION
More particulary according to the present invention, the subject compositions permit obtaining an artificial skin coloration approximately that of a natural tan in a very short space of time. Thus, an immediate coloration is obtained, which allows visualization of the application and consequently better homogeneity in the spreading of the composition onto the skin and, hence, of the resulting skin coloration. Furthermore, the artificial coloration obtained on the skin according to the invention is extremely close to that of a natural tan.
For the purposes of the present invention, by the expression “composition intended for artificially coloring the skin” is intended a formulation with a particular affinity for the skin which imparts to the skin a long-lasting coloration, which is non-covering (namely, which does not have a tendency to opacify the skin) and which is not removed either with water or with a solvent, and which withstands both rubbing and washing with a solution containing surfactants. Such a long-lasting coloration is thus distinguished from the superficial and transient coloration provided, for example, by a makeup product.
The compositions in accordance with the present invention permit obtaining, 30 minutes after application to a fair skin at a rate of 2 mg/cm
2
, a darkening characterized in the (L*, a*, b*) colorimetric measuring system by a &Dgr;L* ranging from −0.5 to −20. Preferably, &Dgr;L* will range from −0.5 to −15.
The compositions of the present invention provide, 30 minutes after application to the skin at a rate of 2 mg/cm
2
, a coloration on a fair skin defined in the (L*, a*, b*) calorimetric measuring system, by a ratio &Dgr;a*/&Dgr;b* ranging from 0.5 to 3 and even more particularly ranging from 0.8 to 2.
According to the present invention, by the term “fair skin” is intended an untanned skin whose colorimetric characteristics may be defined by its ITA angle as defined in the publication by A. Chardon et al. “Skin Color Typology and Suntanning Pathways” presented at the 16th IFSCC congress, Oct. 8-10, 1990, New York, and in
Int. J. Cosm. Sci.,
13, 191-208 (1991). The fair skins as defined in this classification have an ITA° angle ranging from 35 to 55.
In the (L*, a*, b*) colorimetric measuring system:
L* represents the luminance or clarity, a* represents the red-green axis (−a*=green, +a*=red) and b* represents the yellow-blue axis (−b*=blue, +b*=yellow). Thus, a* and b* express the shade of the skin;
&Dgr;L* reflects the darkening of the color: the more negative the &Dgr;L*, the darker the color becomes, with:
&Dgr;
L*=L*
uncolored skin−
L*
colored skin;
The ratio &Dgr;a*/&Dgr;b* reflects the red/yellow balance and thus the shade, with:
&Dgr;a*=a* uncolored skin−a* colored skin
&Dgr;b*=b* uncolored skin−b* colored skin.
Among the flavylium salt compounds which are unsubstituted at position-3 in accordance with the invention, those which are preferred have the structural formula (I) below:
in which R
1
is an —OH group or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C
1
-C
8
alkoxy radical; R
2
, R
3
and R
4
, which may be identical or different, are each H or R
1
, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R
1
to R
4
is —OH; and X
−
is an organic or inorganic anion and preferably a mineral acid derivative such as, for example, a halide, for example a bromide or chloride, or an organic acid derivative such as, for exam
Candau Didier
Forestier Serge
Dodson Shelley A.
Finnegan Henderson Farabow Garrett & Dunner L.L.P.
Societe l'Oreal S.A.
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