Anhydrous hydrophobic cosmetic composition in the form of a...

Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Preparations characterized by special physical form – Particulate form

Reexamination Certificate

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C424S401000, C424S502000, C424S078030, C424S600000, C424S642000, C424S657000, C424S686000, C424S687000, C424S714000, C514S844000, C401S126000, CD28S078000, C206S581000

Reexamination Certificate

active

06395301

ABSTRACT:

The present invention relates to “two-way cakes,” that is, cosmetic compositions in the form of powders, which can be used in either a dry form, as they are, or with water, by means of a damp sponge.
“Two-way cakes” are specific cosmetic powders in the form of compacted products and have the advantage of being able to be taken up with a dry sponge or a dry applicator, in which case they are used as conventional powders, or with water using a damp sponge, in which case they are used as foundations. Such products are particularly appreciated by consumers. Specifically, they are practical, compact, easy to use, and allow a double use, both as a powder and as a foundation, and yet only take up the space of a single product. When applied dry, they afford a sensation of softness and do not feel greasy. When applied wet, they afford a sensation of freshness.
The composition of “two-way cakes” is that of conventional powders. “Two-way cakes” thus generally comprise from 75 to 99% of pulverulent compounds and from 1 to 25% of binder, i.e., of oily compounds allowing cohesion of the pulverulent compounds.
However, since “two-way cakes” must be able to be taken up with a damp sponge, they must be hydrophobic. In fact, if this was not the case, the water in the damp sponge would be incorporated into the “two-way cake,” the sponge would stick to the product, and it would be impossible to de-cake that part of the product in order then to apply it onto the face, for example. The expression “hydrophobic product” refers here to a product which does not incorporate or absorb a drop of water placed on its surface; the drop of water rolls over the surface. Most of the known “two-way cakes” are products which comprise only hydrophobic fillers and oils. They are thus completely hydrophobic.
However, the pulverulent compounds used in powders are not all naturally hydrophobic. Thus, compounds which are naturally hydrophobic and compounds which have been made hydrophobic by means of a specific coating, usually with a silicone, an amino acid or polyethylene, are conventionally incorporated in “two-way cakes.” A product which contains only hydrophobic pulverulent compounds is thus obtained. The drawback of these products is that they are expensive and difficult to manufacture. The reason for this is that the coating of a pulverulent compound is a long and expensive operation.
The Inventor has now found, surprisingly, that it is possible to prepare cost effective “two-way cakes” which are easy to manufacture and which exhibit excellent cosmetic properties and properties of staying power over time, by selecting a specific type of hydrophilic pulverulent compounds. This discovery forms the basis of the present invention.
The present invention thus relates to a “two-way cake,” or alternatively, to an anhydrous hydrophobic cosmetic composition in the form of a compact powder which can be taken up either in dry form or with water, comprising a particulate phase comprising hydrophilic pulverulent compounds, wherein the hydrophilic pulverulent compounds are present in an amount ranging from 20 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the particulate phase.
The composition according to the invention is extremely simple to prepare and can be manufactured according to conventional methods for preparing cosmetic powders. Since the inventive compositions comprise little powder which has been made hydrophobic by means of a treatment, or even none at all, it is not expensive.
The composition according to the invention has excellent cosmetic properties, de-cakes easily both in dry form and with water, and spreads remarkably well on the skin. The composition according to the invention has a texture which feels extremely fine. Furthermore, once the make-up has been applied, the composition is just as fine. It thus appears to give the skin a naturally fine and soft texture. It is resistant to sweat and sebum, and has very good staying power without making the skin sticky or shiny, in particular on the nose or the forehead (T-zone). The composition according to the invention makes the complexion uniform.
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up or caring for the skin, in particular of the human body, or of the mucous membranes (for example, the lips or the inside of the lower eyelids), comprising application of the composition as defined above to the skin or the mucous membranes.
Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent upon reading the detailed description which follows.
The compositions of the invention are cosmetic powders. They can thus comprise up to 100% by weight, preferably from 77 to 99% by weight, of a particulate phase relative to the total weight of the composition. The particulate phase comprises pulverulent compounds usually used in the manufacture of cosmetic powders. The pulverulent compounds can be chosen from fillers, pigments, nacres, and/or mixtures thereof.
The term “fillers” should be understood as comprising colorless or white, inorganic or organic, lamellar or non-lamellar particles intended to give body or rigidity to the composition, and/or softness, a matte-effect and uniformity to the make-up. The term “pigments” should be understood as comprising white or colored, inorganic or organic particles intended to color and/or opacify the composition. The term “nacres” should be understood as comprising iridescent particles which reflect light.
The fillers can be present in the composition of the invention in an amount which can range from 0.1 to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Among these fillers which may be mentioned, for example, are inorganic silicates, such as mica. The mica can be chosen from muscovite, phlogopite, tiotite, sericite, lepidolite, paragonite, synthetic micas and mixtures thereof. Preferably, natural or synthetic sericite is used, for example in an amount ranging from 1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Another filler which may also be mentioned is talc, which can, for example, be used in an amount which can range from 1 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Other fillers which may also be mentioned are silica, kaolin, Nylon powder, poly-&bgr;-alanine powder, polyethylene powder, TEFLON®, lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, polymethyl methacrylate powders, polyurethane powders, polystyrene powders, polyester powders, hollow microspheres such as EXPANCEL (Nobel Industrie), microsponges such as POLYTRAP (Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (TOSPEARLS from the company Toshiba, for example), zinc oxide, titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (silica beads from the company Maprecos, for example), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate, and/or mixtures thereof.
The fillers can also be present in the form of compounds of composite structure, such as, for example, fillers composed of several layers of different pulverulent materials. Mention may be made of SiO
2
/TiO
2
/SiO
2
, TiO
2
/CeO
2
/SiO
2
, and TiO
2
/ZnO/talc compounds.
The pigments can be present in the composition of the invention at a content which can range from 0.01 to 30%, preferably from 0.1 to 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. They can be of any usual cosmetic or nanometric size.
Among the inorganic pigments and nanopigments which may be mentioned are titanium dioxides, zinc oxides, iron oxides or chromium oxides, nanotitanias and ferric blue.
Among the organic pigments which may be mentioned are carbon black and the lakes commonly used to give the lips and the skin a make-up effect, which include calcium, barium, aluminium or zirconium

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