Drug – bio-affecting and body treating compositions – Preparations characterized by special physical form – Cosmetic – antiperspirant – dentifrice
Reexamination Certificate
2001-07-17
2003-06-03
Page, Thurman K. (Department: 1615)
Drug, bio-affecting and body treating compositions
Preparations characterized by special physical form
Cosmetic, antiperspirant, dentifrice
C424S450000, C424S064000, C424S059000, C424S070700, C514S772000, C514S785000, C514S787000, C514S844000
Reexamination Certificate
active
06572870
ABSTRACT:
The present invention relates to anhydrous cosmetic makeup compositions comprising a fatty phase and a cosmetic treatment process using these compositions.
Known anhydrous cosmetic compositions comprise a fatty phase containing mineral or organic oils, fatty bodies, surfactants intended to provide a homogeneous phase and, most often, waxes. Dyes and pigments are added when it is desired that the anhydrous composition be colored.
Anhydrous cosmetic makeup compositions, such as a lip rouge, an eyelid shadow, a molded complexion foundation, and a molded cheek rouge, have as a principal purpose the application of dyes and pigments to the skin, in an even, homogeneous and durable manner.
Moreover it is known to employ cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical compositions which function to treat the skin on topical application thereto.
The exigencies of modern life have necessitated efforts to simplify cosmetic treatments by using cosmetic compositions having several functions thereby reducing the number of required cosmetic treatment operations.
These efforts have involved the introduction in the anhydrous makeup compositions of cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical active materials. To this end, efforts have been made to introduce lipophilic active materials which can be dissolved in the fatty phase of the anhydrous compositions. This fatty phase often contains a large amount of wax and its absorption by the skin or the mucous membrane is very limited. Consequently, the effectiveness of the active materials, which is a function of the penetration of the fatty phase in the skin, is also quite limited.
Consideration has also been given to introducing water-soluble active materials. However, their introduction requires costly technological measures such as the lyophilization of the active materials, then their microdispersion in the fatty phase or the incorporation of the active materials in solid supports such as microspheres or microcapsules and then their dispersion in the fatty phase. In this latter case, the amount of active material that can be introduced is limited because the incorporation of solid supports, containing the active materials, modifies in a significant manner the mechanical properties of the anhydrous compositions.
Thus, until now, the problem of introducing cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical active materials into anhydrous cosmetic compositions has not been resolved in a satisfactory manner.
This problem also exists in the case of anhydrous cosmetic products such as deodorant sticks and anhydrous anti-circle compositions.
On the other hand, it is known that certain ionic or non-ionic amphiphilic lipids and certain mixtures of amphiphilic lipids are capable, on contact with an aqueous phase, of forming vesicles constituted by more or less spherical lamina of the vesicular lipidic phase, encapsulating an aqueous phase.
In a known manner additives can be introduced into the vesicular lipidic phase to improve the stability and the permeability of the resulting vesicles. These additives can be sterols, and in particular, cholesterol or dicetylphosphate.
In the present application and in the claims, the term “provesicular lipidic phase” designates amphiphilic lipids capable of forming vesicles, mixtures of ionic and/or nonionic amphiphilic lipids capable of forming vesicles and amphiphilic lipids or mixtures of amphiphilic lipids containing additives to improve the stability and permeability of the resulting vesicles.
It is well known that these vesicles already possess, in themselves, a cosmetic activity on topical application but especially that they permit the encapsulation of water-soluble and liposoluble cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical active materials in the lipidic and/or aqueous phase. The preparation of vesicles from amphiphilic lipids and their use in cosmetics are, for example, described in French application 2,315,991.
Moreover it is known from FR A 2,416,008, that the lipidic vesicles can be lyophilized and that after lyophilization these vesicles retain their treating characteristics. From this one conclusion would be to introduce lyophilized liposomes and/or niosomes into anhydrous cosmetic makeup compositions. But this operation is complicated and costly on the industrial level, for it requires producing vesicles from amphiphilic lipids, lyophilizing them in the presence of anti-agglomerating agents and/or cyroprotectors having no particular advantage for cosmetic compositions, and then to incorporate them at an elevated temperature in a complex cosmetic product containing melted oils and waxes.
According to the present invention the applicants have found that the provesicular lipidic phase, capable of forming vesicles in the presence of water, retains its ability to form vesicles when it is mixed with a fatty phase, generally employed for the production of anhydrous cosmetic compositions, which fatty phase contains organic and/or mineral oils, fatty bodies, and most often, waxes and surfactants.
In effect, as shown in the comparative examples given below, that after contact with water, the formation of vesicles in the aqueous phase of satisfactory quality and significant quantity is observed. Moreover, it is noted that the resulting vesicles retain their capacity to encapsulate hydrophilic and/or lipophilic active materials and that under these circumstances the effectiveness of the active material, introduced into the anhydrous composition, is very clearly improved.
It was not obvious to the skilled artisan that when the provesicular lipidic phase, capable of forming vesicles in the presence of water, was mixed with the fatty phase, employed in the production of anhydrous cosmetic makeup compositions, it would again be possible by mere contact with an aqueous phase, to form vesicles therein. In particular, it was feared that, when the provesicular lipidic phase which is constituted of a mixture of ionic amphiphilic lipids and/or non-ionic amphiphilic lipids or amphiphilic lipids combined with one or more additives, the combination of these different compounds, which can be required for the formation of vesicles in a stable form, would be destroyed by the oils, fatty bodies, waxes and the surfactants contained in the fatty phase of the anhydrous cosmetic product.
According to the present invention this discovery is utilized in the production of anhydrous cosmetic compositions containing in the fatty phase, a provesicular phase capable of forming vesicles on contact with water, these anhydrous cosmetic compositions being contacted with an aqueous phase at the time of their use to cause the formation of vesicles.
It is necessary to note that the contact with an aqueous phase is most often inherent in the method of application of these anhydrous cosmetic compositions.
For example, lip rouges are contacted with the labial mucous membrane, which is rich in water, and which is regularly moistened by the saliva; molded complexion foundations, eyelid shadows or cheek rouges are often hydrated just before application using a wet sponge; deodorant sticks are applied to the skin which is moistened by sweat secretions.
The present invention thus-relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising a fatty phase which is characterized by the fact that the fatty phase contains a provesicular lipidic phase containing at least one amphiphilic lipid capable of forming vesicles on contact with an aqueous phase.
Preferably, the cosmetic composition contains a water-soluble and/or liposoluble cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical active material.
The amount of the provesicular lipidic phase containing the amphiphilic lipids can represent from 0.1 to 30 percent by weight of the anhydrous composition, preferably from 1 to 20 percent.
In the provesicular lipidic phase, the amphiphilic lipids employed can be any amphiphilic lipid known for the production of vesicles in the presence of water. These lipids are, in a known manner, amphiphilic lipids of natural or synthetic origin, ionic or nonionic, having, per molecule, one or more long chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear
Miguel Dolores
Ribier Alain
Simmonet Jean-Thierry
Channavajjala Lakshmi
L'Oreal
Nixon & Vanderhye P.C.
Page Thurman K.
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